Ls2 402 d-1 procharged power?
11-20-2010, 01:20 PM
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Ls2 402 d-1 procharged power? So im starting a build... its an ls2 402 d-1 procharged running a 3.4 pulley which ive heard pushes 12 lb s of boost. So i have a few questions. First, should i run the stock 243 heads or the 317 heads.... If i run the 243 heads how big of a dish should i run and what dish piston should i run with 317 heads... and last what power would i make running this set up running comptar crank and rods.. with an edelbrock intake and low elbow and 60 lb injectors
11-20-2010, 02:41 PM
#2
Start planning for a set of aftermarket castings #1, to help keep the heads down. I'd aim to get the compression around 9 to 1, that will keep a decent tuning window.
As for intake, a fast or the like will work, if you want to run a single plane don't use that flat edlebrock thing, that is a massive choking point on every car I have seen try to use it. get one from aaron's or the like that's a good wide opening, and plan on cutting the hood to give the needed clearance. Honestly, you'd be better off with a regular ls style intake unless you want to try to make well over 1000 hp, which I don't think is the goal.
The 3.4 pulley is not a guarintee of any amount of boost, your intercooler, charge piping size, engine effeciency, camshaft selection, crank pulley, RPM will all have an effect on what kind of boost you see. Don't get hung up with a boost #, get it together and see what it's making for power, the boost, is just a measurment of how much restriction there is on the back side of the blower.
As for intake, a fast or the like will work, if you want to run a single plane don't use that flat edlebrock thing, that is a massive choking point on every car I have seen try to use it. get one from aaron's or the like that's a good wide opening, and plan on cutting the hood to give the needed clearance. Honestly, you'd be better off with a regular ls style intake unless you want to try to make well over 1000 hp, which I don't think is the goal.
The 3.4 pulley is not a guarintee of any amount of boost, your intercooler, charge piping size, engine effeciency, camshaft selection, crank pulley, RPM will all have an effect on what kind of boost you see. Don't get hung up with a boost #, get it together and see what it's making for power, the boost, is just a measurment of how much restriction there is on the back side of the blower.
11-20-2010, 04:50 PM
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Start planning for a set of aftermarket castings #1, to help keep the heads down. I'd aim to get the compression around 9 to 1, that will keep a decent tuning window.
As for intake, a fast or the like will work, if you want to run a single plane don't use that flat edlebrock thing, that is a massive choking point on every car I have seen try to use it. get one from aaron's or the like that's a good wide opening, and plan on cutting the hood to give the needed clearance. Honestly, you'd be better off with a regular ls style intake unless you want to try to make well over 1000 hp, which I don't think is the goal.
The 3.4 pulley is not a guarintee of any amount of boost, your intercooler, charge piping size, engine effeciency, camshaft selection, crank pulley, RPM will all have an effect on what kind of boost you see. Don't get hung up with a boost #, get it together and see what it's making for power, the boost, is just a measurment of how much restriction there is on the back side of the blower.
As for intake, a fast or the like will work, if you want to run a single plane don't use that flat edlebrock thing, that is a massive choking point on every car I have seen try to use it. get one from aaron's or the like that's a good wide opening, and plan on cutting the hood to give the needed clearance. Honestly, you'd be better off with a regular ls style intake unless you want to try to make well over 1000 hp, which I don't think is the goal.
The 3.4 pulley is not a guarintee of any amount of boost, your intercooler, charge piping size, engine effeciency, camshaft selection, crank pulley, RPM will all have an effect on what kind of boost you see. Don't get hung up with a boost #, get it together and see what it's making for power, the boost, is just a measurment of how much restriction there is on the back side of the blower.
Hood clearance isnt the factor lol. Im putting this engine in a 68 ss camaro with the factory cowl hood... I just like the way the edelbrock low elbow looks... Yes, im that guy.. haha ... I just want a nice street car that has a good mount of power and looks good... with a suprize under the hood.. not necessarly a drag car. and you mentioned the fast intake... yeah i love it but only in newer cars... it just doestnt play right looks wise in my old camaro... I need some thing with a little more muscle look. So, whats my best bet on edelbrock intakes.... rpm, victor jr, or super victor. And as for the elbow.... i could probably go with a aarons or i could possibly fab one up. let me know what you think. thanks for your response
11-20-2010, 07:09 PM
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If you are building the LS2 you should be able to select pistons to match heads and get your compression right. Either 317 or 243 castings should be OK if you get the piston selection right. 9 to 9-1/2 to 1 would be a good start. Both of the GM castings should hold 12 psi if you use ARP studs.
Have you already purchased the D1? For 400+ inches you might want to consider an F1 or F1A. More noise but probably a better choice for this application - it won't have to work as hard to get the boost up.
I have a 69 and thought of doing the LSX swap. Found it was less expensive to keep the old BBC engine - boat anchor it is weight wise. Very good parts are now available and they cost less than LS stuff. Not to mention it is a direct bolt in and you don't need to spend a lot of money chasing little things down to complete the swap.
Have you already purchased the D1? For 400+ inches you might want to consider an F1 or F1A. More noise but probably a better choice for this application - it won't have to work as hard to get the boost up.
I have a 69 and thought of doing the LSX swap. Found it was less expensive to keep the old BBC engine - boat anchor it is weight wise. Very good parts are now available and they cost less than LS stuff. Not to mention it is a direct bolt in and you don't need to spend a lot of money chasing little things down to complete the swap.
11-20-2010, 10:14 PM
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If you are building the LS2 you should be able to select pistons to match heads and get your compression right. Either 317 or 243 castings should be OK if you get the piston selection right. 9 to 9-1/2 to 1 would be a good start. Both of the GM castings should hold 12 psi if you use ARP studs.
Have you already purchased the D1? For 400+ inches you might want to consider an F1 or F1A. More noise but probably a better choice for this application - it won't have to work as hard to get the boost up.
I have a 69 and thought of doing the LSX swap. Found it was less expensive to keep the old BBC engine - boat anchor it is weight wise. Very good parts are now available and they cost less than LS stuff. Not to mention it is a direct bolt in and you don't need to spend a lot of money chasing little things down to complete the swap.
Have you already purchased the D1? For 400+ inches you might want to consider an F1 or F1A. More noise but probably a better choice for this application - it won't have to work as hard to get the boost up.
I have a 69 and thought of doing the LSX swap. Found it was less expensive to keep the old BBC engine - boat anchor it is weight wise. Very good parts are now available and they cost less than LS stuff. Not to mention it is a direct bolt in and you don't need to spend a lot of money chasing little things down to complete the swap.
11-21-2010, 06:18 AM
#6
Makes sense on the clearance issue now LOL. I'd go super victor and an aaron's elbow, or a wilson one, or whatever will work for your specific layout. (intercooler location, etc)
F1a would be a better idea for your CI. Or, if you haven't bought the crank yet, get a good aftermarket stock stroke crank and keep the motor in the 36x range. Then your d1 will have an easier time filling the cyl's better and you'll be able to make better power. The shorter stroke will let you build alot better piston too, a 6.1 rod with stock stroke will give you enough room to put a really good piston in there that will be really strong, which is never a bad thing.
F1a would be a better idea for your CI. Or, if you haven't bought the crank yet, get a good aftermarket stock stroke crank and keep the motor in the 36x range. Then your d1 will have an easier time filling the cyl's better and you'll be able to make better power. The shorter stroke will let you build alot better piston too, a 6.1 rod with stock stroke will give you enough room to put a really good piston in there that will be really strong, which is never a bad thing.
11-21-2010, 08:22 AM
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Makes sense on the clearance issue now LOL. I'd go super victor and an aaron's elbow, or a wilson one, or whatever will work for your specific layout. (intercooler location, etc)
F1a would be a better idea for your CI. Or, if you haven't bought the crank yet, get a good aftermarket stock stroke crank and keep the motor in the 36x range. Then your d1 will have an easier time filling the cyl's better and you'll be able to make better power. The shorter stroke will let you build alot better piston too, a 6.1 rod with stock stroke will give you enough room to put a really good piston in there that will be really strong, which is never a bad thing.
F1a would be a better idea for your CI. Or, if you haven't bought the crank yet, get a good aftermarket stock stroke crank and keep the motor in the 36x range. Then your d1 will have an easier time filling the cyl's better and you'll be able to make better power. The shorter stroke will let you build alot better piston too, a 6.1 rod with stock stroke will give you enough room to put a really good piston in there that will be really strong, which is never a bad thing.
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11-21-2010, 10:47 AM
#8
stock stroke vs the 402, I think you'd be within 40 hp. The thing is this, the longer stroke will not be as easy to fill as the shorter... you'll have an easier time making more boost with a slightly smaller engine and end up with the same or more power. And, due to the ability to run a little better piston a setup that will be happy for a longer period of time.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
11-21-2010, 11:57 AM
#9
stock stroke vs the 402, I think you'd be within 40 hp. The thing is this, the longer stroke will not be as easy to fill as the shorter... you'll have an easier time making more boost with a slightly smaller engine and end up with the same or more power. And, due to the ability to run a little better piston a setup that will be happy for a longer period of time.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
OP, I ran a D1SC 403 LS2 that would make 13'ish in the summer and made 14.5# in the killer air. My car ran high 9's at 3800# with the cheezy twin 4.5" intercoolers and a pretty good shot of methanol to control detonation.
The D1SC makes good power on 402/403's, especially for a street car. I have a Firehawk that has run 9.18 at 3330# with a D1SC/FMIC set up maxxed out making 19#'s at a DA of 500' in 60 degree air.
11-21-2010, 04:09 PM
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stock stroke vs the 402, I think you'd be within 40 hp. The thing is this, the longer stroke will not be as easy to fill as the shorter... you'll have an easier time making more boost with a slightly smaller engine and end up with the same or more power. And, due to the ability to run a little better piston a setup that will be happy for a longer period of time.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
Super victor flows more, and from what I have seen distributes a little better then the jr does, so you shouldn't find the center cyl's running as much off as you would with a jr intake. Again, there's alot of different results out there, but going with the super vs the jr intake I think you'd make up 10 to 20 hp of what you might lose with a little less CI.
KP, had an f1a on his car with a 402/stock stroke setup and went 8.70 with it, he was at the point where head gaskets/sealing was becoming an issue with the 4 bolt heads, and that was with aftermarket castings. With a factory casting head you'll run into the problems probably 200 hp sooner then he was.... I'd guess his car was around the 1000 crank hp #, so if you're planning on staying under 800, it won't matter. But, if you want to push it later on down the road, the aftermarket cyl casting will be a must, and most likly a 6 bolt setup would be a really good idea. There's places (va speed) that can convert stuff to 6 bolt, but if you think that's a possibility, spend the $ up front and save alot down the road.
All depends what you want for power.... do you have a Hp/ET goal you want to hit with the car or will you be happy with whatever it makes? How much progression are you thinking about down the road as well, always a good idea to plan for a little more then you think, as that's what usually happens.
This is really the determining factor as to what parts would you be best off with.
