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GRP Rods ?????

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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Default GRP Rods ?????

Well I didnt do much research buying these and wondering if I shoulda waited for a set of "steel" rods. They were exactly the size I needed and couldnt beat the price. They are the 2200 series and were just redone. I would be useing them in a LS2 with 4.005 wiesco blower/N20 pistons that weigh 467grams and stock crank with 24x. The rods weigh 503 grams. Supposilly you should run a lighter than piston than rod with the alluminum rods? I got that covered i believe. So what about street use?? The car is in sig and is my weekend ride with occasional track use. Are these rods no good for the street or stick with them?? I have done a search but no luck. thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Good luck, hope you find your info on your eBay pickup!! I seen them on there, but passed....
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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Billet aluminum rods don't tend to last on the street, the heat cycles is what hurts them, and they need about .020" additional clearance over a steel rod.

If your piston is normally .008" out of the hole, with a GRP rod your pistons would need to be .012" in the hole.

The Bill Miller forged rods tend to last a lot better on the street, rather then cut from a billet blank, they're forged to shape, so the grain structure goes around the small end and big end of the rod, rather than the small end and big end of the rod cutting through the straight grain structure of the billet rods.

There is no way I would run those on a street car for more than one season.

Read more here.
http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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I hope that by stating the rods have ben redone you didn't buy a used set of aluminum rods. The life span of an aluminum rod is very short and built for race apps only not intended for street use.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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looks like i f'd up. live and learn i guess. anyone want them for a race motor?
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dkota1968
looks like i f'd up. live and learn i guess. anyone want them for a race motor?
sorry to hear. But at least your smarrt enough to listen and learn from your misstakes. So you ahead of the pack there.

If they are new alum rods they can be run on the street but there just alot more things you need to worry about and do to make them live longer.

If there used it taking a huge shot in the dark to use them. so polish them up and use them to make a glass coffee table
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Another issue that arises from buying rods unseen, not all shelf pistons will fit an aluminum rod, aluminum rods are typically twice as thick over the pin, vs. steel.

Wiseco, their dish pistons specially, need to keep over the pin thickness to around .250", by default small end width will be 1.040", too wide for alot of shelf pistons, both dimensions are specified when initial ordering.

Aluminum rods breaking, happens lot less nowadays, when an aluminum rod breaks, minimal collateral damage. Steel rod breaks it gets nasty, doesn't want to let go.

Last edited by AES Racing; Nov 21, 2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AES Racing
Another issue that arises from buying rods unseen, not all shelf pistons will fit an aluminum rod, aluminum rods are typically twice as thick over the pin, vs. steel.

Wiseco, their dish pistons specially, need to keep over the pin thickness to around .250", by default small end width will be 1.040", too wide for alot of shelf pistons, both dimensions are specified when initial ordering.

Aluminum rods breaking, happens lot less nowadays, when an aluminum rod breaks, minimal collateral damage. Steel rod breaks it gets nasty, doesn't want to let go.
Another thing that I was looking at, they may not fit my pistons. Im thinking I may just sell all the parts I have and bolt a blower on and call it a day. Ive seen what happens when stock rods break in person, not good. Thanks for the advise guys.
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