LS3 427 N/A Build
05-10-2011, 09:09 PM
#21
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Have you been happy with the handling with your Nitto's? The 555's wouldn't even give me decent traction with the cammed 6.0, so I know I'm going to have to get something a little more sticky, but I don't want to go with a full out DR.
05-11-2011, 07:51 AM
#22
I have Nitto NT555's right now that are about half worn. So lack of traction will keep me from breaking parts too soon. The M6 is stronger than the A4, so hopefully it will hang on. I may have my local transmission guys replace the known weak links in the t56.
Have you been happy with the handling with your Nitto's? The 555's wouldn't even give me decent traction with the cammed 6.0, so I know I'm going to have to get something a little more sticky, but I don't want to go with a full out DR.
Have you been happy with the handling with your Nitto's? The 555's wouldn't even give me decent traction with the cammed 6.0, so I know I'm going to have to get something a little more sticky, but I don't want to go with a full out DR.
Well the nitto tires I got is the NT05R. NT05R's are superior to the original 555R's. Even with NT05R, I'm still blowing off the tires. But that's just on a regular street. You gonna get better traction at the track than on the streets. But, it depends on how well the track you go to is prepped.
05-11-2011, 08:03 AM
#23
The compression should be around 12:1. The heads will be milled to 62cc to achieve that. I'll be using 93 oct pump gas. I don't plan on using n2o or boost so I wanted the highest compression possible to get the highest N/A numbers. The flow on these ported heads is higher than the new V2 230cc AFRs, I really think they will be a great fit for my purposes.
05-11-2011, 11:32 AM
#24
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Yea the extra compression and higher flowing heads along with the M6 should net me around 525 fairly easy I hope. Could be more but I'm trying not to get my hopes up.
I is was just looking at Hinson Supercar's website and they have American Racing 1 7/8 headers on sale right now for $899.00. If they could work with your current mids that's a pretty good deal. I'm sure you could sell your old set for $4-500. I'm not sure if they would work with my current mids but I'm considering doing that. If you have to buy the mids too, then your right your going to be looking at around $1300.00.
I is was just looking at Hinson Supercar's website and they have American Racing 1 7/8 headers on sale right now for $899.00. If they could work with your current mids that's a pretty good deal. I'm sure you could sell your old set for $4-500. I'm not sure if they would work with my current mids but I'm considering doing that. If you have to buy the mids too, then your right your going to be looking at around $1300.00.
Last edited by rockerjoe2008; 05-31-2011 at 10:43 AM.
05-11-2011, 11:43 AM
#25
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I just looked at the wavetrac and man are they all $900? Have people had good luck out of the detroit truetracs? I know they used to kinda the be the standard.
05-11-2011, 12:07 PM
#26
Wavetracs are expensive but it's worth it. I didn't wanna compromise the car's driveability. My rear operates like stock til I nail it.
05-13-2011, 10:22 PM
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With that kind of power from your motor, just expect that you'll be replacing a lot of parts between the motor and the rear tires. You'll immediately need to think about what sort of clutch you want to install. Since you'll have the motor out, now is the time to pick one built for that kind of horsepower. The tranny might give out at that power level so be prepared to have yours rebuilt and beefed up at some point. The driveshaft might need to be replaced. The rear end will absolutely need to be beefed up and the parts aren't very cheap. You should probably at least go with a TrueTrac and upgraded stub shafts. With that kind of power, you'll definitely be twisting the stock stubs IF you can get any traction.
You might be able to get along for awhile if you baby it, but just make sure you're prepared to upgrade the rest of the drive train as stuff breaks.
You might be able to get along for awhile if you baby it, but just make sure you're prepared to upgrade the rest of the drive train as stuff breaks.
05-13-2011, 11:30 PM
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With that kind of power from your motor, just expect that you'll be replacing a lot of parts between the motor and the rear tires. You'll immediately need to think about what sort of clutch you want to install. Since you'll have the motor out, now is the time to pick one built for that kind of horsepower. The tranny might give out at that power level so be prepared to have yours rebuilt and beefed up at some point. The driveshaft might need to be replaced. The rear end will absolutely need to be beefed up and the parts aren't very cheap. You should probably at least go with a TrueTrac and upgraded stub shafts. With that kind of power, you'll definitely be twisting the stock stubs IF you can get any traction.
You might be able to get along for awhile if you baby it, but just make sure you're prepared to upgrade the rest of the drive train as stuff breaks.
You might be able to get along for awhile if you baby it, but just make sure you're prepared to upgrade the rest of the drive train as stuff breaks.
I know you're probably right, but I have my fingers crossed. I don't know if you noticed, but I am installing a Monster Level 3 clutch. Like I said earlier, my tires don't get that great of traction but they aren't worn out so I'm not replacing them until the tread is gone. I'm not going to be doing any 3,000rpm dumps or anything either. Hopefully it will last a little while.
05-16-2011, 08:51 AM
#29
I know you're probably right, but I have my fingers crossed. I don't know if you noticed, but I am installing a Monster Level 3 clutch. Like I said earlier, my tires don't get that great of traction but they aren't worn out so I'm not replacing them until the tread is gone. I'm not going to be doing any 3,000rpm dumps or anything either. Hopefully it will last a little while.
Yes, it's alot of money in my build, but it's worth it. Trust me. When I busted my 10bolt, I was lucky to drive it home cause I was less than 2 miles away.
05-16-2011, 02:08 PM
#31
Well it's a performabuilt 4L60E trans that can withstand 700rwhp. Right now, my car makes at at least 508rwhp/480rwtq. The trans performs without any problems and it's under a 2yr warranty. So it's ALOT better than stock.
05-23-2011, 12:40 PM
#32
Well, I figured anytime one wish to substantially increase hp/tq of a car, the drivetrain needs to be beefed up to handle that. So, I figured since I'm going from a 346 to a 427, there's no way in hell my original drivetrain will handle this powerful application. Besides spending money on the 427, I went ahead to get a upgraded 4L60E, then got a moser 9in, and got a stronger driveshaft.
Yes, it's alot of money in my build, but it's worth it. Trust me. When I busted my 10bolt, I was lucky to drive it home cause I was less than 2 miles away.
Yes, it's alot of money in my build, but it's worth it. Trust me. When I busted my 10bolt, I was lucky to drive it home cause I was less than 2 miles away.
05-23-2011, 03:16 PM
#33
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I'd be interested in what power you eventually put to the tires.
Your AFR heads flow well but are not significantly better than ported LS3 or LS7 heads installed on a 4.125 bore. Great numbers but the larger bore guys will most likely put up higher numbers in the end.
GTO1 Ohio recently posted his results of an ERL 427 with Mamo modified 205 heads and put down 486 rwhp through an auto.
Your AFR heads flow well but are not significantly better than ported LS3 or LS7 heads installed on a 4.125 bore. Great numbers but the larger bore guys will most likely put up higher numbers in the end.
GTO1 Ohio recently posted his results of an ERL 427 with Mamo modified 205 heads and put down 486 rwhp through an auto.
05-31-2011, 10:41 AM
#36
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I'm supposed to get the car back in the next few days. I'll post up final numbers as soon as I know them. I've been a month with out my car now, I'm getting kinda antsy, LOL.
05-31-2011, 10:44 AM
#37
