full engine build vs power adders
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From: paintsville ky
full engine build vs power adders Hey guys ive been reading alot on power adders and fully forged stroker engines and such. i used to run a street sleeper nitous car for a few years so im not new to spray but i was wondering something.Im going back over seas again and if/when i make it back i should have around 10k - 15k to drop into my car. now the big question is should i go with fully forged balanced and blueprinted rotating assembly ( crank, rods, pistons) with a set of matching heads, cam, 90mm intake & throttlebody.....or should i just put a set of forged pistons and a power adder ( nitrous or boost) and call it a day?
i have the 02 camaro with full bolt ons, RST twin disk clutch, sphoon heavy duty driveshaft, moser 9in rear with 35 spline axels, detroit locker with a 3.89 gear ratio, SFC's, UMI torque arm, driveshaft loop, suspensions mods left and right. the only supporting mods i dont have which i AM getting soon is upgrading the fuel system to a high output system and upgrading the oil delivery system. as far as i know ( of course im NO professional) i have all the supporting mods i need besides the upgraded fuel and oil system. so which would be the best HP output bang for my buck route to take? any opinions are welcome!
i have the 02 camaro with full bolt ons, RST twin disk clutch, sphoon heavy duty driveshaft, moser 9in rear with 35 spline axels, detroit locker with a 3.89 gear ratio, SFC's, UMI torque arm, driveshaft loop, suspensions mods left and right. the only supporting mods i dont have which i AM getting soon is upgrading the fuel system to a high output system and upgrading the oil delivery system. as far as i know ( of course im NO professional) i have all the supporting mods i need besides the upgraded fuel and oil system. so which would be the best HP output bang for my buck route to take? any opinions are welcome!
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From: East Bay, CA
That's a hard decision lol, I'd personally go for n/a just because you "complete" the motor more. Take in mind if you're gonna go boost you would ideally want everything else on the engine to match well with it like your heads and everything. I'd rather have a built n/a than a half-assed (well that's kind of an heavy description for it I guess lol) turbo car. If you're trying to save money though I think the boost route would be cheaper.
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From: Bahrain
If your no mechanic & can afford the price 
DO your research 100 times with local friends LS1 experts & a lot of search button ^^ in this forum ... The Dynamometer forum on the home page will help you identfy earlier & current setups & achievements do the homework & do it your way not the trolls who try to convince you otherwise .... NOS
DO your research 100 times with local friends LS1 experts & a lot of search button ^^ in this forum ... The Dynamometer forum on the home page will help you identfy earlier & current setups & achievements do the homework & do it your way not the trolls who try to convince you otherwise .... NOS Thread Starter
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From: paintsville ky
[QUOTE do it your way not the trolls who try to convince you otherwise .... NOS [/QUOTE]
yea +1 to that. i am trying to original with my car so. well its about 5k more on the build but you guys think it would be worth the time and money to go all forged?
[/QUOTE]yea +1 to that. i am trying to original with my car so. well its about 5k more on the build but you guys think it would be worth the time and money to go all forged?
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To make 650-700 hp you are going to need a lot more cubic inches if you stay NA. Consider getting your block sleeved to 4.125, forged rotating assembly and ported LS7 style heads (think MAST). This would not be a cheap build but would make good power and be up for a shot of nitrous in the future if you got bored.
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From: paintsville ky
Well in that case ill build it for a 200 wet shot then since i know spray better than boost. Oh does anyone know what the safe shift point would be with the fully balanced and forged internals? 7k maybe?
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From: paintsville ky
I like n/a setups for the simplicity and reliability especially in a street/strip car. Not saying you can't build an engine with a power adder that is reliable it just takes more money.
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From: paintsville ky
Well with my rank i should bring home around 30k since last time i brought 23k home, so setting aside 10-15k for the car and the other 15k in the bank account shouldnt be a problem. But i think ive decided on the full forged rotating assembly, H/C, intake w/ throttlebody and then ill wait a little while down the road for the Boost. thanks for all the great input guys if you have any more opinions please feel free to post more!
If your no mechanic & can afford the price DO your research 100 times with local friends LS1 experts & a lot of search button ^^ in this forum ... The Dynamometer forum on the home page will help you identfy earlier & current setups & achievements do the homework & do it your way not the trolls who try to convince you otherwise .... NOS
DO your research 100 times with local friends LS1 experts & a lot of search button ^^ in this forum ... The Dynamometer forum on the home page will help you identfy earlier & current setups & achievements do the homework & do it your way not the trolls who try to convince you otherwise .... NOS 
.Now if it was me going for a fun street car i would build one mean motor and then add some spray for the track and love it. With all the stuff out for the LS motors you can have a very friendly 11 second daily driver on motor then take the same car to the track turn on the bottle and run 10s with the right set up.
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From: paintsville ky
yeah thats true, since i already have all the supporting mods i need im going to do just that, setup an aggressive H/C setup with full forged internals, and then around a 175-200shot for the track. But this is my show car not my DD, so boost really isnt outta the question.
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From: paintsville ky
i know im bumping my OLD thread again here, but i was wondering, considering the fact that your heads, cam and pistons will be different depending on whether your going full N/A or for forced induction, then if buying all the necessary parts for forced induction ( being forged internals, dish pistons, cam and heads setup for boost) had to be bought in 3 separate payments, one being the forged internals, then next year being the heads and cam, then the next year being the Procharger...how would the car run say on the first year having forged internals and dish pistons with no boost, then the next year having the heads and cam setup for boost but not having it yet? i just know that keeping factory cubes even if stroked with huge cam isnt going to yield anymore than maybe 600-650 if that!..so i want to go for a Supercharger but im just wondering if theres a way to avoid those two years of running a boost built engine with no boost?...i hope someone understands what i mean by all this, i tried to explain it the best i could...:/
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From: paintsville ky
did u build a whole new engine as in new block and all, or just purchased the new internals , heads and cam?
