How many people on here are using the 24-58X conversion box?

Is anybody having problems with theirs?

Right now am I at the point should I get this module, or remove the crank out of my good L76 short block and have Katech swap the trigger

 

I read a few people are having trouble with them when they get hot. One guy went to great lengths to insulate one with no better results once warm. It would be a drag to have one go up 300 miles from home.

 

Anybody else?

 

We have several hundred vehicles on the road and on the race track using our TRG 58x to 24x signal conversion modules. The product has been available since 2008 so some of these vehicles have been on the road for nearly 3 years.

We did have a tolerance stack up problem on the earlier versions of our TRG-002 (and its predecessor the TRG-001) where heat build up would cause a no start condition on some vehicles under certain conditions. It took a lot of testing to figure out what was going on. Customers would send the units back and we would test them in the engine dynamometer cell on an engine or on our electronic simulator bench and nothing would be wrong with the unit. We finally were able to determine that the heat was increasing the circuit resistance just enough that on some vehicles the factory ECM, that monitors the current level on the camshaft and crankshaft sensor circuits, was shutting off those inputs due to the increased current draw. One of the changes made to help eliminate this problem is that the newer versions of the TRG-002 have a stand alone power connection so the ECM is not responsible for supplying the power for the TRG or to the camshaft and crankshaft sensors anymore.

We have designed the TRG-002 with all automotive temperature grade components and we stand behind the product with a 1 year replacement warranty.

 

Thanks Jason. Do you pro-rate this product at all after the 1 year?


Also, any other independent user results?

 

Now thats how you build the good stuff and earn a solid reputation gentlemen. Do your best, address the issues when they arise, then use that data to improve on the previous work

Carry on fellas you buyers are lucky with this guy

 

i have been using one, i had the hot no start problem found that if i cooled the box down it started back up. sent a email to lingenfelter and they advised me they were experiancing some problems and replaced the box for free. have not had a problem since, great experiance to me.

 

I just ordered one yesterday and they said they will be back in stock later this week. My guess is they can't be doing that bad if they can't keep them in stock lol

 

We don't prorate the warranty after one year. The instructions give a more detailed description of the warranty (last page). The instructions to this product and most of our products are on our web site. You can find them here:

http://www.lingenfelter.com/downloads

Here is a link to the TRG specific instructions.

For customers that had the hot shut-down related issue we have extended the warranty since it was a diagnosed design problem (as long as they didn't cut up the wires or otherwise melt/destroy the box itself).

End user consumers on this and other forums would probably be your best feedback but several magazines have also used the product in vehicle build ups. I think GM High Tech still has a Camaro with an LS3 in it that has our conversion module in it. We also have some aftermarket companies that use them in the dynamometer cells so that they don't have to have as many different wiring harnesses and calibrations for the different LS type engines.

 

Thanks for even more updated information. So where are the 4th gen Fbody guys mounting this box?

 

I have one, 600 miles on it and no problems, I place it near the battery attached to the fuse box in my Corvette, thanks Lingenfelter for this easy solution.

 

O bought 1 last week and am going to run it this weekend. I will let you know how it turns out

 

how long was the warranty extended. I have had mine shut down only when in really bad traffic 4 times. if you wait 10 mins it fires right back up. i wrapped it in heat insulation at the end of the year when it was cold out so im not sure if this helped.

 

Bringing this one back... I mounted it in the CAB so it wouldn't get hot.

How high are you all reving the engines with these boxes? Mine seems to work perfectly until 5800rpm or so and it hits a wall. Almost like a rev limiter. May be unrelated, but the gen3 motor last year pulled great to 7k without issues. Gen4 motor with conversion box seems to have issues.

thanks

 

We have customers running the TRG-002 in LS7 drag race engines that go to 7500+ RPM. We have tested to beyond that RPM range.

 

Good to know! Just wondering if there was some sort of built in rev limit for safety or something to bypass. I get no signal errors indicated on the LED’s at the problem RPM area. (or anywhere else) Can’t figure it out. I am using your Trigger box with a GEN1 AEM EMS. As said, worked great last year with no issues. Running the same tune/cal file. Maybe the signal isn’t compatible with the AEM.

Thanks for the input!

 

Never tested it with an AEM system but it would be odd that you would have a problem like that without other RPM related problems also occurring if the AEM doesn't like the signals we provide.

Can you log crank/camshaft information with the AEM?

Have you looked at the other engine data to make sure you don't have a ground problem pulling the sensor circuits low, an alternator charging problem at high RPM etc?

 

I’ve verified TDC and marked the balancer. Verified timing with alight, it’s dead on with the AEM. I’ve logged every parameter I can think of. Cam/crank signals/spark/dwell/rpm AFR etc… and see nothing unusual. Every limiter option is "off" and is set to 10k rpm.

The car runs well with the available RPM. Even at 5500 rev limit it went 10.20’s @ 140 the way it sits. About 10mph slower than last years gen3 setup. Using the same coils, leads and tune. Just new racetornix 160lb injectors and the lingenfelter box.

As it approaches the upper rpm, it revs slower and slower until it around 6k it just refuses to Rev. If I hold it at WOT on a pass, it will rev every slowly to 6300 or so but it’s making NO power. It’s even more pronounced when “free reving” in neutral. Tach memory sits dead at 5700 every time. No popping missing etc. Valve springs are more than adequate. Spark isn’t blowing out. AFR is great. Voltage is solid 13.4x the entire run. Though I haven’t checked voltage at the sensor crank/cam sensor… I’m at a loss.

Appreciate the interest though! You guys use AEM much?

 

Just thought I'd update this and reiterate I wasn't talking bad about this product. I found a wire pin on the supplied loom for the cam sensor that was not locked in the connector last evening. It had started to slip out the back of the connector.

I had removed my battery to do some other maintenance and afterwards the car wouldn't rev past 4k. Shook all the wires around by my firewall/battery area and the car died.

Car crisply revs to 6300 or so in neutral now. I don't want to "free rev" much more than that. Rain has stopped me from road testing but I hope this fixes it. Strange it gave no signal errors, but I think I found the issue!

 

Glad you found the problem.

If you ever do need to log RPM limit related variables on the AEM, this is what you want to log (see screen shots attached to this message below).

If you want the 24x setup screen variables to make sure those are all correct, PM me and I will get you that information.

BTW - thanks to AEM for providing the attached screen shots.