The great valvespring debate
The great valvespring debate I know people have bad taste's in their mouth from certain springs. I also know spring breakages have a lot to do with improper setup and spring selection. I'm trying to mainly get a concensus of what people are running on their DD'd setups at .6something" lift.... I know spring pressure will affect things so please include how your valvetrain is setup if you know. I'll be driving this thing ~15mi a day and trips to area tracks.
I'm not partial to any brand. This will be an L92 headed stock bottom end 6.2L build with a 230's/240's cam, ported intake, LS7 lifters, stock rockers, and appropriate pushrods.
****This is not a bashfest for any one spring (unless its deserved
) or brand. I'd like as much factual first hand info as possible, pro builders, feel free to give your $.02. ****
I'm not partial to any brand. This will be an L92 headed stock bottom end 6.2L build with a 230's/240's cam, ported intake, LS7 lifters, stock rockers, and appropriate pushrods.
****This is not a bashfest for any one spring (unless its deserved
) or brand. I'd like as much factual first hand info as possible, pro builders, feel free to give your $.02. **** i have customers running patriot golds with no issues, on my personal car i run PRC .650's
i have had no problems with either. i think a lot of spring failures are caused by people not letting the car get to operating temp before spinning the engine higher RPM's.
i have had no problems with either. i think a lot of spring failures are caused by people not letting the car get to operating temp before spinning the engine higher RPM's.
i have customers running patriot golds with no issues, on my personal car i run PRC .650's
i have had no problems with either. i think a lot of spring failures are caused by people not letting the car get to operating temp before spinning the engine higher RPM's.
i have had no problems with either. i think a lot of spring failures are caused by people not letting the car get to operating temp before spinning the engine higher RPM's.
No matter what spring you choose, it's 1000% necessary to measure their installed height and verify that they will actually work with your cam. Do not blindly trust the advertised height on ANY brand of spring. I initially purchased Patriots but when I measured their installed height on my LS3 heads, I found that they did not install at a height that would allow a lift anywhere near what they advertised, so I replaced them with PRCs that installed at a much safer height.
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Pac duals here. The biggest thing that I do to save valve springs is to let the oil temp and really the whole engine warm up before getting on it. Many a spring has popped when they see some rpm before they are up to temp.
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Springs I like all the above but if you like, light weight quality, with the same capabilities then PAC 1518 is tops and it does it with 45 lbs less open seat pressure...
Have used PRC duals and Patriot duals with great service out of both brands of those springs. Over 200,000 miles of trouble free use. The secret to long spring life is to let the engine get warmed up real good before you get on it. Of course you always need to have your springs set up at the proper height.
PAC 1521's here. I had Richard at WCCH check them out after 10k miles with .660 lift cam and they were within a couple of pounds of new pressure. I'm still running them after stock, Stage 2 and Stage 3 L92 heads - 403 and now 427.
Yes Sir they are the best on the market. I'm running those also. The 1518's are also a good spring for smaller cams.
I had PRC Gold 0.650's with an MS4 for about 20-25K miles. No failures or excessive noise at any point in time. About 3-5K ago I switched to PRC EHT 0.675's due to their advertised life and reliability. I also didn't like pushing the 0.650's with a cam that has a lift of 0.649".
For both springs, I always wait until the water temperature is up to 190*F and since I have an oil temperature gauge and cooler, 180*F for that. I need to get my old springs checked just to follow up and see how much pressure was lost. I didn't drive that setup too hard but with the PRC EHT 0.675's, the engine sees 6500 daily.
For both springs, I always wait until the water temperature is up to 190*F and since I have an oil temperature gauge and cooler, 180*F for that. I need to get my old springs checked just to follow up and see how much pressure was lost. I didn't drive that setup too hard but with the PRC EHT 0.675's, the engine sees 6500 daily.
Torn between the 1518's and duals... I have always liked single springs when applicable but having the duals does give a small piece of insurance against dropping a valve and wrecking a whole longblock if one were to happen to fail.