I picked up a used LS2 shortblock and would like to start to get a plan in motion to build it for my Twin Turbo C5. The things on the car that will be staying are the APS twin turbo kit with upgraded billet wheel turbos (70 lb./min. each), built T-56 with McLeod RXT clutch. All of these parts are brand new and/or freshly rebuilt. Currently it runs on 93 + meth, but I do have easy access to E85 that I could throw in the mix, too.

My goal is to have an engine that will easily support 1,000+ rwhp and not be "on edge". It doesn't see the dragstrip, but I do enjoy the Texas 2k-like street stuff. I will say that with my eBoost2, I have multiple boost settings that I can change with the push of a button, so it's not going to be just cruising around town on full-tilt. Not to mention that no cars in my area have this much power, so it's pointless to have around here, but It would be cool to make it out to some get togethers in Texas.

I truly like the idea of the AES 385ci LS2 with the Callies crankshaft, Callies rods, CP pistons, good rings, ARP main studs and head studs.

Some questions I have are these:

Crankshaft: Compstar or Dragonslayer?
Rods: Compstar or Ultra H-beam?
Thoughts on O-ringing the block and heads? Reliability with lots of city driving?

Also, I honestly have no idea on what are the best cylinder heads for 4.0"+ bores without breaking the bank. On a 6-speed turbo car, do the rectangle ports fit better than the cathedral ports? I am a big fan of a thicker deck surface, but I'm not sure I could swing anything as pricy as the AFR/TF/Mast stuff. What are my options as far as best "value" to fit my application?

 

You must be sure the core pieces of your foundation are in line with your expectations, case in point, horse power rating of the core, or foundation of your build, the numbers you mention and the block you have, is in line with a chain of head gasket/ overheating problems and much work. Please do your self a favor and if you plan to use the ls2 block, don't stroke it, especially for boost, they just take a lot more abuse for longer with less trouble. the best way to go if a 6 bolts per cylinder block is not possible, is lq9 or lq4 cast iron blocks, there you can do what you want, without trouble, now the heads, if they are not 6 bolts per cylinder, they must be 3/4 inch deck thickness, no compromise here, take your time, it could sound expensive but is the cheapest way to go. there is no point in going true the school of hard knocks, if you now know, how to avoid it.
You can sell your ls2 block and pick up a band new lq9 block for about the same you are going to get for your used ls2, i picked one up for $785. at a local Chevy dealer, if you can get someone to sell you for shop price, if not get it from sdpp, you will pay for shipping there, new 3/4 deck heads are the same price as the rest, and if you get them, get the 6 bolts heads, as they are the same price and will resale a lot better, and if you are game the lq4 or 9 blocks are the easiest thing to convert to 6 bolts per cylinder, i can send you the bungs you need to weld inside and out for the extra bolts or studs and other than that, a 2" hole sow will drill the access holes from the valley area to the lifter area. The cranks you mentioned are good, i personally like the Scot cranks they are non twisted forgings for less than 800 bucks at SDPP, the rods, Manley severe duty sold at the same joint, talk to Beau, Good luck,
David.

 

I feel that my selection of the LS2 block and the core parts are in line with my expectations. I'm not going to say that the 6.0 iron block is out of the question, but it's not optimal for me in my car. I also think that a 3.8xx stroke crankshaft will be considerably better for the engine and parts than a 4.00" stroke crankshaft will be. I know a 6-bolt configuration would be BEST for high power, but I think it would be overkill in a setup targeting 1,000rw.

I do find it intriguing that your recommend badass parts like a 6-bolt block and aftermarket 6-bolt heads, and then recommend a Scat crankshaft.

I'm still in the planning process and appreciate your opinions.
Just a quick question...Do you have a 1,000rwhp car or have you built any high HP motors? <These are the people I am trying to target with opinions.

 

LS2 block will be fine. I like the 385 from AES it gets you a better piston in the bore compared to using a 4 in stroke.

The bottom end is no place to skimp for that kind of power. A minimum of a dragonslayer crank in there and go with the better rods. I would send it to Fraser@AES or somebody else reputable like Erik@HKE or Billy Briggs. That way it will be done right the first time out. Talk to them about your power goals and intended usage and they will recommend what will need to be done to your block as far as o-ringing and stuff.

For heads, you will just have to save your money. I don't know if a factory head will do any good for you. Many guys have made stupid power with 317's but they will not support 1000 rwhp for their flow or if they will stay down and not lift. I haven't see much on the LSA heads but that would be the only factory casting I know of to support the flow but then you might have an issue with deck thickness.

 

Yeah, I've already been chatting with AES about the 385 and he has been quiet helpful. With this being a turbo car, I don't really even think I'll need o-ringing. I'd probably be good with just good ARP studs using good gas.

For the heads, I do believe you are right. I think the .750" deck would be my best option and I may possibly find some at a good deal that have been gently used. If not, it's probably in my best interest to buy them new.

I'd still like more opinions on Cathedral port vs Rectangle port stuff.

 

With FI I don't know if there is a notable difference between cathedral vs. rectangular port. They both work well. I guess it would come down somewhat to what intake you own so you don't have to buy a new one.

If it were me I think I would be looking in the Mast stuff. Ever since they teamed up with Cary Chouinard their stuff is top notch.

 

Yeah, I knew Mast stuff was top notch stuff.

I see you're in Slidell. I'm up in Shreveport.

 

Yup were damn near on the other ends of the state.

 

Just a quick question...Do you have a 1,000rwhp car or have you built any high HP motors? <These are the people I am trying to target with opinions.

Check out my old setup, http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...706&highlight=

And this is my new setup, https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t-pix-now.html

 

It just threw some red flags when you mentioned a Scat crankshaft. Nobody in their right mind would recommend a Scat crankshaft for a reliable 1,000+ rwhp build.

 

Do you know anybody using a Scot crank non twisted forging, who had a failure? as far as i was informed by a tech, these are rated at over 1200hp.
I ran about 1,120 crank torq just fine.
After a crack in the middle of a expensive dragon slayer.
I else wonder if you know, why you ever bother to ask us, will find better to do with my time.

 

Scat was never in the question and I didn't ask for overall general build advice. I asked:

Some questions I have are these:

Crankshaft: Compstar or Dragonslayer?
Rods: Compstar or Ultra H-beam?
Thoughts on O-ringing the block and heads? Reliability with lots of city driving?

 

Well if you want to go to that extreme. Who have you seen had a failure with a stock 3.622 stroke crank out of any LS motor? There are a few guys running 8's with them.

We all have our experiences with different stuff. Most of the time the stuff works fine but there is always an exception and YOU might of had the exception. Did you talk to Callies and send them the crank so they could do an analysis on it and find the cause of failure?

When I was building my motor and I talked to a few places, everytime they mentioned Callies the price always went up. When I asked why the price difference, guess what they told me? "It's a better crank".

So if the engine builders thinks its better why would the OP listen to you with your one experience when the engine builder has tons of experience?

 

Do you have a driver license?

 

You're just mad because were laying out facts here. Lets pull out some big names on this board.

Keith Berry- Callies
98z28cobrakiller-stock 3.622
ATVracr&Shiznity-Callies Magnum
Tom Kempf-Callies Magnum

Nobody uses a scat in a high hp build. Now, I have heard of Scat having a billet line but thats mostly for Nascar builds from what I am told.

Still, I have not heard of ANYBODY using a Scat crank.

P.S. stop acting like a ******* kid. Plus, you never answered my question about sending the crank to Callies.