Flycutting setup for L92 heads.
Flycutting setup for L92 heads. Does anyone know where someone could rent or purchase a flycutting setup for L92 heads??? It would be nice to get the cutter, Bare heads and everything.
I just used my heads, 1 of my intake valves, and some adhesive backed 120git sandpaper. I cut 8 2.20" circles in the sandpaper, attatched a new peice for each new cylinder setup.
I did not use a headgasket,I simply verified each setup was with the piston at TDC, and I made SURE everything was taped and sealed off completely.
I set the head on the block and snugged up a couple bolts, then I let the intake valve drop down and touch the piston. I then used a 5/16" collet on the valve stem, and placed .070" feeler guage between the collet and top of the valve guide - this set the max depth of cut to .070". Then I used a cordless drill to spin the valve and cut the releif.
Done. - fast easy and next to free ( which in my case is very important)
I did not use a headgasket,I simply verified each setup was with the piston at TDC, and I made SURE everything was taped and sealed off completely.
I set the head on the block and snugged up a couple bolts, then I let the intake valve drop down and touch the piston. I then used a 5/16" collet on the valve stem, and placed .070" feeler guage between the collet and top of the valve guide - this set the max depth of cut to .070". Then I used a cordless drill to spin the valve and cut the releif.
Done. - fast easy and next to free ( which in my case is very important)
agreed!! I would like to see some pics of this. I was under the impression you wanted to take a junk head, cut it up to one cylinder, weld a pipe on the intake port and seal it off, do the same to the exhaust port with another pipe. Then attach a shop vac to remove the metal from the cutter and buy a corresponding cutter (Valve) of the same size. Do the exact same thing you did for measuring cutting depth. That way you would only be working with one cylinder at a time to verify everything was @ TDC. But your was sounds fairly easy. Just wondering how you made sure to be @ TDC everytime???
I could rent you the intake cutter needed, r/a drill adapter too for the back cylinder
I use the heads that are going on the car, and the head gasket too. That way it is exactly like the finished assy
I use the heads that are going on the car, and the head gasket too. That way it is exactly like the finished assy
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Verdad Gallardo I used a degree wheel, a wire pointer, and a piston stop to verify TDC on #1, then just verified the *'s on the wheel added up for each cylinder I was working on. the crank throws are 90* .
Sorry I dont have pics of everything, I know this isnt a complete explanation of what I did, but the thread by spinmonster was what I looked at before I did mine. I chose NOT to use the head gasket in the setup because without it, the resulting valve relief will have more radial clearance to the valve.
The Lindy tool is really the best way to do it, but as I stated I need to be frugal, so didnt want to buy the tool.
Barrett
Sorry I dont have pics of everything, I know this isnt a complete explanation of what I did, but the thread by spinmonster was what I looked at before I did mine. I chose NOT to use the head gasket in the setup because without it, the resulting valve relief will have more radial clearance to the valve.
The Lindy tool is really the best way to do it, but as I stated I need to be frugal, so didnt want to buy the tool.
Barrett
We rent LS3 fly cutting tools. I have one head thats completely machined out, so you can move the cutter to every cylinder on that bank, with out removing the head. Makes for a very quick fly cut session!
Give us a call if you need one. Price is 500$, and you get 350$ back once you return the head/cutter.
Louis
972-429-1963
Give us a call if you need one. Price is 500$, and you get 350$ back once you return the head/cutter.
Louis
972-429-1963
