Priming the Oil System on a New Engine
Priming the Oil System on a New Engine Do you guys do this and if so how? I was considering putting some break in oil into a bug sprayer and connecting it to the oil pressure port before I put the manifold back on.
Yea I saw that yesterday which is what prompted the question, LOL. Not sure what is magical about 70# though. In fact, that is around the pop off pressure for the relief valve in the oil pump so I don't get it. Don't want to invest in a spendy setup to use it once so I was wondering what the DIY'ers are doing. Seems like pumping the crap out of the bug sprayer and releasing it into the system for 5-10 minutes would get the job done.
Ya but if you take an old R12 take the valve out of the top and put a hose on it so you can hook it up to the oil pressure port and mabey a ball valve to turn it off when needed that waay you can put oil in it pressureize the tank then turn it over and open the valve so the pressure pushed the oil out. Just an idea. Your bug sprayer might work but might take a while.
Thats an idea too. I considered running compressed air through the bug sprayer but canned that when an image of the tank exploding and covering me and everything else with oil. Come to think of it, any type of tank that could take ~100# of pressure and then just tap an air compressor quick disconnect to it.
The engine dry starts every time you normally crank it. Odds are assembly lube stays on the bearings better then reg oil does. So long as the oil pump is in working order, i dont see how "dry starting" is bad. Soaked lifters/oiled springs and rockers, of course.
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Dry started my motor, the only other thing I did that Diet Cioke didn't was that I sprayed some fogging oil in cylinder before I cranked it, and of course disabled fuel and just let the starter turn the motor till oil pressure builds,
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Verdad Gallardo so why do the old SBC guys highly recomend priming? ISnt there an anti backflow spring on most oil pumps to keep the oil in the journals and majns? you may not have pressure when you strat your engine but there is still oil there so its not technically a "dry start'
I agree that the assembly lube should do it's job but just trying to ensure things go as smooth as possible. Another reason I wan to prime is the new build is a TT so I would want oil to the turbos as well.
I would say just because it's easy with a small block, just need a distributor shaft on a drill.
i do believe if the engine is still on the stand it is not hard you can make a priming system for very little no money but where your building a TT thats different and wanting to have oil pressure for the turbos on initial startup. and getting to the oil port in an Fbody wont be easy but looks like you have a vette from your sig. So that shouldnt be as much of a problem getting to the oil port.
The way I prime my LS engines is take all the spark plugs out. Pop a starter on the engine on the stand or in the car. Slap a battery and a charger on it and crank away till oil comes out the port where the oil press switch screws in. Works every time for me.
No exhaust escaping so the turbos should not turn.
I'll also disable the fuel pump if it's in a car.
No exhaust escaping so the turbos should not turn.
I'll also disable the fuel pump if it's in a car.
I drilled a hole a little smaller than a valve stem and installed it into My bug sprayer and pump it to 50 or 60 all the time ,,,,,,,,,,,as long as the sprayer is'nt real old or been sittin in the sun much but yes a steel refrigerant can or some sort of air tank would probably be a little safer over time .
pre-oiler Posted this a long time back, Use a section of 4" PVC pipe, solid plug one end and set up the other with a screw on cap , drill and tap both ends for 3/8 pipe, ball valve both ends, the screw on cap gets an air chuck on the ballvalve, the other end gets what ever you need to attach a section of flexible line that will take a little pressure.
The oil cooler adapter above the oil filter will need to be tapped if yours is not already, make whatever plumbing you feel comfortable with between the ball valve with the hose adapter, unscrew the threaded plug add oil(amount depends on how large of a resovoir you made), srew plug back on, chuck up your air hose and pressure up your engine. You could use a small regulator if you wish to have a little control on air pressure. This is a simple and inexpensive system, works fine.
The oil cooler adapter above the oil filter will need to be tapped if yours is not already, make whatever plumbing you feel comfortable with between the ball valve with the hose adapter, unscrew the threaded plug add oil(amount depends on how large of a resovoir you made), srew plug back on, chuck up your air hose and pressure up your engine. You could use a small regulator if you wish to have a little control on air pressure. This is a simple and inexpensive system, works fine.
PVC would provide a good pressure container.
Dumb question but does it matter where I tap into? There's the port on the drivers side lower part of the block (actually I don't know if this is there on my LQ4 block), and where the pressure sensor goes, behind the valley cover.
Dumb question but does it matter where I tap into? There's the port on the drivers side lower part of the block (actually I don't know if this is there on my LQ4 block), and where the pressure sensor goes, behind the valley cover.
PVC would provide a good pressure container.
Dumb question but does it matter where I tap into? There's the port on the drivers side lower part of the block (actually I don't know if this is there on my LQ4 block), and where the pressure sensor goes, behind the valley cover.
Dumb question but does it matter where I tap into? There's the port on the drivers side lower part of the block (actually I don't know if this is there on my LQ4 block), and where the pressure sensor goes, behind the valley cover.
Last edited by oldngray; Jan 10, 2012 at 01:47 PM. Reason: misread