85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

My VVT2 didn't either. I used the orig cam bolt/valve to install the cam and had no issues.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

My VVT-2 came with the long bolt. I understand this is for installation purposes to get the phaser seated on the cam pin.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking since I have no idea how mechanical full advance relates to the "0" position the ECM reports, perhaps when the engine is running I could add advance until it fails to change the reported value. That would then correspond with the position measured when degreeing at mechanical full advance.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure what you're trying to find/measure if you're running the engine?

The ECM will only retard the cam and it works off an assumption of what default/full-advance is according to stock specs. When degreeing, you're just looking for real values to make sure you know how it's installed so you can adjust or tune appropriately..

LongIsland63SS409

iTrader: (22)

If I understand correctly the cam phaser default is advanced and as oil pressure/rpms increase the cam is retarded or advance is taken out?

Mike

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Does 0 retard in the cam tables correspond to the phaser at full advance or does it correspond to a position on the cam position sensor that is somewhere between full mechanical advance and full mechanical retard?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

There are threads on HPtuners about this. The GM phaser is advanced at base and that corresponds to 0 in the tables. You can't put negative values in the tables. So if your cam has 7 deg advance base and the table in the tune has a value of 8, then the cam will be retareded 1deg.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Yes, that's what I said. Although its not the oil pressure/rpms that's making the cam timing change, it's the tune values that direct the oil pressure thru the phaser based upon engine load and RPM values that changes it.

LongIsland63SS409

iTrader: (22)

Thank you for your explaination.

More and more I am excited about keeping the VVT.
Looks like after Labor Day I will be installing the VVT 3 cam.


Mike

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Mike. That is what I was wondering.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

How are to guys rotating the phaser to lock it into full retard? I could not do it with the pivot bolt still installed. I see kballs took all his bolts out, but I'm worried about that spring coming out if I do that.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

You will have to have another sacrificial phaser to remove the spring from to rotate it. I dont think you can rotate it with the spring without distroying the phasers' teeth or vanes...

I mentioned above (post #30) that they phaser I used can be loaned out, but I do warn that it's the -994 model and you have to take in to account the difference in advance when using it to check PTV in a -358 application. (Which is what I did)

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

There's got to be another way. I wonder how the factory assembles these things - it seems like there must be a way to rewind the spring and reassemble.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I'm sure there's a very specialized machine that assembles them at the factory. Think about it this way, CompCams put a ton of effort, tools, instructions into their phaser limiter kits, just to be able to drop in a small chunk of metal between the vanes. If there was an easy/another way to rewind the spring, I doubt their kits would have to be so pricey and complicated.. :twocents: When I ended up disassembling my -994 phaser for the checks, it literally fell apart. The cam sensor "flag" is very thin sheet metal, and is held to the valves with tiny dowels and the whole thing rides on the vanes inside the gear/case linked with the tightly wound spring.

You can buy the phasers new for about $80 iirc and I almost did, but after figuring out the differences between the 2 phaser versions and having the cam specs, it was easy enough to degree the cam and check PTV using the Min & Max advance of the new phaser I was going to use, by rotating the old, disassembled phaser to those Min & Max values.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I would really like to do this without sacrificing a phaser and also I prefer to use the actual phaser that I am going to run with since it will have it's own unique dimensions compared to another phaser of the same part number (just due to part variation). Anyone have an idea on how to do it?

It seems like kballs was able to take his apart and put it back together. I wonder - did the spring unwind?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Did he ever say he put his phaser back together ? I thought he stopped posting after someone pointed out about the unsprung phaser? FWIW, I took apart my old phaser for checking and I see no way to get it back together after unspringing it...

I guess you can retard the cam a tooth or more and get close, but rotating around that spring will be difficult.

kballs

iTrader: (1)

Hey dudes, I did sacrifice an actuator for the peace of mind of not destroying my engine. I should find it and send it to who ever needs it as a loaner. I don't mind at all as long as I get it back.

My car is up and running and i'm very happy with the numbers i'm getting from it. Just putting bigger injectors into it this weekend and getting it retuned. Then i'll post the final HP numbers. Gotta wait for a sunny day too since the weather has turned to s@#t here now.

Jimbo1367

Kballs,
So how is the seat of the pants feel as of now? You got the VVT-2?

thanks,
Jim

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

See this thread. He is not running the VVT-2
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...vvt-dynod.html

kballs

iTrader: (1)

Got the bigger injectors in now and was just waiting to get the tremec back witht the upgrades from liberty before I take it back for a retune. Will post the final numbers once the rain stops and I can get the car out on the dyno again.