Callies crank freeze plug leaking?
#1
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Callies crank freeze plug leaking?
I've been chasing a mystery oil leak for some time now. First time I took the clutch out I noticed oil in the pilot bearing area and from there it spread around. I thought I was the rear main so I replaced it and same problem. I shut the car off and within a few minutes there is a fist size puddle of oil coming from the transmission. I removed everything tonight and the rear main was bone dry but in the center of the flywheel it was soaked with oil. I'm guessing this is the freeze plug? It looks perfectly seated in there and it's brand new. Can I just put some JB weld around the whole plug let it dry and run it? Does this thing see oil pressure?
#3
I've always said they should thread the hole and use a socket head plug in the back of the crankshaft. The welch plug is too easily knocked out of position. You need to carefully remove the plug now and install a new one. Gently drill a hole in the center of the plug, thread a sheet metal screw in and pull it out. (Don't push the plug in.) Call Callies and get the plug they use because plug diameters can vary slightly. Check the plug bore carefully for dents/gouges/scratches because some people will use a screwdriver to knock the plug sideways to get the old one out.
#6
ModSquad
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Forget the plug. Take it out, and silicone the hole full. We do this before the install, when all is clean and dry. Never leaks in our circle track engines.
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Well when I checked the crank seal it looked fine. I jb welds the **** out of it and the leak is still there. I saw oil on the top middle of the trans when I took it out but see no source of leaks at all from the back.
#13
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#14
ModSquad
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I haven't seen a crankshaft where the gundrilled mains affect oiling passages, not to say that it hasn't been tried. There would be no oil pressure to the rods if the oil passages crossed through the gun drilling in this manner. Now gun drilled pins, that's totally different. The pins have to be angle drilled, to miss the oil passages. Gun drilled mains were developed to promote scavenging, and vacuum. The weight savings were an added bonus.
http://www.precisionenginetech.com/t...t-tech-part-2/
http://www.precisionenginetech.com/t...t-tech-part-2/
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Oil is definitely coming from the freeze plug. I Put the uv dye in and took everything apart and it was coming from the middle of the crank even after the jb weld. I guess I'll call Callies tomorrow and see what they suggest. The plug itself looked fine and wasn't damaged. Rear main is dry along with the rear timing cover and I had permatexed the flywheel bolts.
#16
I've always said they should thread the hole and use a socket head plug in the back of the crankshaft. The welch plug is too easily knocked out of position. You need to carefully remove the plug now and install a new one. Gently drill a hole in the center of the plug, thread a sheet metal screw in and pull it out. (Don't push the plug in.) Call Callies and get the plug they use because plug diameters can vary slightly. Check the plug bore carefully for dents/gouges/scratches because some people will use a screwdriver to knock the plug sideways to get the old one out.
#17
My lunati crank did the same thing. There is no oil pressure on it. Just crankcase pressure. I tried everything and finally pushed it out into the pan and pulled the pan off.
#20
Guessing this is the problem in our case as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post18910423
What kind of silicone do you recommend for this?
What kind of silicone do you recommend for this?