Texas speed 5.3 Dod delete Kit! HELP!
#41
You will also need a new cam gear a 3 bolt 12586481 I believe. Make sure this one 4 x signal same as you pulled off. I'm 99% sure this is the one you need and Scoggin Dickey probably caries them.
#42
#43
Hey guys, im in the process of finishing my 2008 Ly5 5.3. I bought it about 2 years ago for cheap, it had 50k on it and was pulled due to lifter failure. I had a cam ground by CMS and put 16 LS7 lifters in it,,, i threaded the vertical snouts with 1/8 npt thread and plugged them. I then just made my own valley cover and tapped the rear corner for my sender. We shall see what happens. i threw a set of 243's on it, and a dual plane edelbroke with a 750proform carb.
#45
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This is an old thread but seeing that it is being bumped I will make a correction on it. You need to change the cam when doing a physical DOD delete (not just turn off in the tune). In the beginning we have had many customers that ran the stock cam after deleting it without issue. Then all of a sudden we had an influx of customers throwing the multiple misfire code. This was remedied by changing out the cam to a non DOD cam. We have no idea how some worked while others did not. Since then we have changed our site and we always tell customers now that it must be changed because no one wants to have to do a cam swap after buttoning everything up if it doesn't work. Just change the cam when doing a DOD delete and be worry free.
Lonnie
Lonnie
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#46
To further beat this thread into the ground I have one more question. All of the mechanical solutions being talked about involve changing to a non VVT cam (3 bolt). Is it possible to keep the VVT by swapping to a factory VVT/non AFM cam such as the L92? I happen to have one in my possession, and a 5.3 that's in need of a AFM delete. It would be fantastic if I could kill 2 with one stone. I realize that I will have to deactivate the AFM codes in the tune afterwards, but this would mean that I could leave the VVT portion intact, correct?
#47
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A lot of L92 engines had AFM so you would have to be 100% that particular cam came out of a vehicle that did not have DOD/AFM. Other than that, it should work.
Lonnie
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#48
Lonnie I was just trying to find help when starting this thread. Glad Texas speed is informing customers of the cam swap needed now. Sure is a pain to go back into the engine afterwards, not to mention the est that had already been given to the customer without a camshaft and other needed parts. I work on cars everyday, its obvious when 4 cyls have different compression than the other 4 it has to be the camshaft. Then trying to help people not make the mistake I did. Hopefully Matt is not designing camshafts, after his cocky comment attached below and several others on a few other forums. Maybe he has had time to think about how those cams are ground by now. The way he worded it really pushed my button, but I knew time was on my side and others would have same problem.
"Step back and think about how the camshaft is ground, and how the lifters ride, and why/how the valves open. If you know how they grind the AFM cams, you know the lobes are still in the same location as a non-AFM camshaft, they just use different lobes (and sometimes different centerlines). So do tell us all why the cam makes any difference. I found 2 local truck guys here that did the same DOD delete kit, are running the stock cam, and have no problems."
"Step back and think about how the camshaft is ground, and how the lifters ride, and why/how the valves open. If you know how they grind the AFM cams, you know the lobes are still in the same location as a non-AFM camshaft, they just use different lobes (and sometimes different centerlines). So do tell us all why the cam makes any difference. I found 2 local truck guys here that did the same DOD delete kit, are running the stock cam, and have no problems."
Last edited by SA_swaps; 12-08-2015 at 05:50 AM.
#49
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GM PART# 12625437 is the stock camshaft used in the 4.8L engine that DID NOT come with AFM. This camshaft is a direct replacement for the 5.3L AFM cam when you want to do the AFM delete and use standard lifters. (SINGLE BOLT CAMSHAFT) This cam will have a groove in the 2nd bearing journal that is used to supply oil for use in VVT (variable valve timing) that started in 2010. This cam works just fine in 07-09 WITHOUT VVT, as well as 10+ WITH VVT when deleting AFM from 5.3l engines. This cam will use the stock timing gear and bolt from the 5.3L as well. As of this writing, this cam is around $90.00 brand new from GM, you can also get it on Amazon, Summit Racing, so on.
#50
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Lonnie I was just trying to find help when starting this thread. Glad Texas speed is informing customers of the cam swap needed now. Sure is a pain to go back into the engine afterwards, not to mention the est that had already been given to the customer without a camshaft and other needed parts. I work on cars everyday, its obvious when 4 cyls have different compression than the other 4 it has to be the camshaft. Then trying to help people not make the mistake I did. Hopefully Matt is not designing camshafts, after his cocky comment attached below and several others on a few other forums. Maybe he has had time to think about how those cams are ground by now. The way he worded it really pushed my button, but I knew time was on my side and others would have same problem.
"Step back and think about how the camshaft is ground, and how the lifters ride, and why/how the valves open. If you know how they grind the AFM cams, you know the lobes are still in the same location as a non-AFM camshaft, they just use different lobes (and sometimes different centerlines). So do tell us all why the cam makes any difference. I found 2 local truck guys here that did the same DOD delete kit, are running the stock cam, and have no problems."
"Step back and think about how the camshaft is ground, and how the lifters ride, and why/how the valves open. If you know how they grind the AFM cams, you know the lobes are still in the same location as a non-AFM camshaft, they just use different lobes (and sometimes different centerlines). So do tell us all why the cam makes any difference. I found 2 local truck guys here that did the same DOD delete kit, are running the stock cam, and have no problems."
We're really sorry that he pushed your buttons with that response. I will say that Matt hasn't worked here for almost 3 years now. You were the first case of seeing it not work with the stock cam. We even did installs in house at that time using the stock cam that had zero issues.
We still do not know why some stock cams work while others do not. It doesn't make sense when you think about how a cam works. But like your instance, it's very annoying to find out it won't work especially after everything has been reassembled. So we always recommend a replacement cam just to be 100% sure there is no issues.
Lonnie
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#51
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For the lifter to go into V4 mode, oil is pumped into the lower groove (nearest the roller) When the lifter is sitting on base circle, the spring in the lifter is trying to push the two parts apart, when oil pressure is introduced, the pins in the inner lifter part do not immediately go inward. The opening ramp on the cam lobe has a what i'm going to call a ''lash ramp'' to say similar to how a solid lifter cam works. This small ''lash ramp'' takes the pressure off the pins long enough for hydraulic force to push them inward, than the lifter starts riding up the opening lobe ramp, and the inner part of lifter goes downward for V4 Mode. Cylinders 1,7 4,6 are designed to shut down, and therefore those lobes of the cam have this ramp for the AFM lifter to function correctly.
To my knowledge there are 3 lifter designs from GM. Lower is factory original out of a 2007. Upper is a replacement GM Lifter with about 5,000 miles on it before it locked down.
here are a few cut away views of the lifters.
It appears what causes the lifter to lock down, is metal debris from the pins constantly catching in the groove they are meant to be in when in v8 mode. When lifter goes into V4 mode, the metal causes the inner/outer portion to bind up.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
To my knowledge there are 3 lifter designs from GM. Lower is factory original out of a 2007. Upper is a replacement GM Lifter with about 5,000 miles on it before it locked down.
here are a few cut away views of the lifters.
It appears what causes the lifter to lock down, is metal debris from the pins constantly catching in the groove they are meant to be in when in v8 mode. When lifter goes into V4 mode, the metal causes the inner/outer portion to bind up.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
Last edited by busta9876; 12-08-2015 at 12:27 PM.
#52
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If it is a 5.3 and you do not have VVT we also sell GM part # 12560967 w/ a 3 bolt cam sprocket for a stock replacement cam.
Lonnie
Lonnie
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#53
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Here are some more pictures. These are from the SAME engine, the one showing metal debris broken off was locked down. The other was not.
I'm posting 2 pictures of lifters from SAME engine, early lifter, lots of metal broken off the ledge the pins ride on. Early design the internal portion of lifter is free to rotate in relation with outer body.
Here is another lifter from the SAME engine as the prior picture, why does one lifter show damage, and this one looks perfect?? going to check Rockwell hardness.......
I'm posting 2 pictures of lifters from SAME engine, early lifter, lots of metal broken off the ledge the pins ride on. Early design the internal portion of lifter is free to rotate in relation with outer body.
Here is another lifter from the SAME engine as the prior picture, why does one lifter show damage, and this one looks perfect?? going to check Rockwell hardness.......
#54
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For the lifter to go into V4 mode, oil is pumped into the lower groove (nearest the roller) When the lifter is sitting on base circle, the spring in the lifter is trying to push the two parts apart, when oil pressure is introduced, the pins in the inner lifter part do not immediately go inward. The opening ramp on the cam lobe has a what i'm going to call a ''lash ramp'' to say similar to how a solid lifter cam works. This small ''lash ramp'' takes the pressure off the pins long enough for hydraulic force to push them inward, than the lifter starts riding up the opening lobe ramp, and the inner part of lifter goes downward for V4 Mode. Cylinders 1,7 2,4 are designed to shut down, and therefore those lobes of the cam have this ramp for the AFM lifter to function correctly.
To my knowledge there are 3 lifter designs from GM. Lower is factory original out of a 2007. Upper is a replacement GM Lifter with about 5,000 miles on it before it locked down.
here are a few cut away views of the lifters.
It appears what causes the lifter to lock down, is metal debris from the pins constantly catching in the groove they are meant to be in when in v8 mode. When lifter goes into V4 mode, the metal causes the inner/outer portion to bind up.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
To my knowledge there are 3 lifter designs from GM. Lower is factory original out of a 2007. Upper is a replacement GM Lifter with about 5,000 miles on it before it locked down.
here are a few cut away views of the lifters.
It appears what causes the lifter to lock down, is metal debris from the pins constantly catching in the groove they are meant to be in when in v8 mode. When lifter goes into V4 mode, the metal causes the inner/outer portion to bind up.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
Awesome!! Thanks for the clarification! We've talked with Comp, GM, etc and could never get a definite answer on that.
Lonnie
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#56
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If you're not using the VVT sprocket/phaser with that cam the cam would be at full advance. Thus giving up some power on the top end. I would have to run it on our inspector to see how much advance is ground into that cam.
Lonnie
Lonnie
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#57
For the lifter to go into V4 mode, oil is pumped into the lower groove (nearest the roller) When the lifter is sitting on base circle, the spring in the lifter is trying to push the two parts apart, when oil pressure is introduced, the pins in the inner lifter part do not immediately go inward. The opening ramp on the cam lobe has a what i'm going to call a ''lash ramp'' to say similar to how a solid lifter cam works. This small ''lash ramp'' takes the pressure off the pins long enough for hydraulic force to push them inward, than the lifter starts riding up the opening lobe ramp, and the inner part of lifter goes downward for V4 Mode. Cylinders 1,7 4,6 are designed to shut down, and therefore those lobes of the cam have this ramp for the AFM lifter to function correctly.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
Here is the lifter with 5,000 miles on it. You can see the area worn.
Thanks!!
#58
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Let's be accurate here. The L92 never had AFM, just VVT. The later L94 had both VVT and AFM. Very similar engines, both 6.2L with aluminum blocks.
Here is a great site for reference:
https://archives.media.gm.com/us/pow...ars/index.html
Andrew
#59
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Lonnie,
Let's be accurate here. The L92 never had AFM, just VVT. The later L94 had both VVT and AFM. Very similar engines, both 6.2L with aluminum blocks.
Here is a great site for reference:
https://archives.media.gm.com/us/pow...ars/index.html
Andrew
Let's be accurate here. The L92 never had AFM, just VVT. The later L94 had both VVT and AFM. Very similar engines, both 6.2L with aluminum blocks.
Here is a great site for reference:
https://archives.media.gm.com/us/pow...ars/index.html
Andrew
Lonnie
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#60
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[QUOTE=dewchugr;19069095]Would you be able to tell me what would cause a DOD lifter to come apart like this and what I should be concerned about? Roller appears OK, haven't taken the cam out, but it doesn't have severe enough damage to see from outside. 06 Buick LH6.
Thanks!!
][/QUOTE
The only way I can think of the lifter coming apart in the vehicle, is if the hydraulic lifter portion has collapsed, usually seen in poorly maintained vehicles. This will allow inner portion of AFM lifter to over extend, and the pins will be ABOVE the groove they lock on. When you go to remove the lifter you finish pulling it apart.
Usually if the roller is okay, you can put a lifter back in the hole and go on (if not changing cam, must go back with proper AFM lifter) At this point, I usually recommend changing camshaft and go with all non AFM components, effectively mechanically deleting the AFM function. ECM programming still must be done to shut it off.
Thanks!!
][/QUOTE
The only way I can think of the lifter coming apart in the vehicle, is if the hydraulic lifter portion has collapsed, usually seen in poorly maintained vehicles. This will allow inner portion of AFM lifter to over extend, and the pins will be ABOVE the groove they lock on. When you go to remove the lifter you finish pulling it apart.
Usually if the roller is okay, you can put a lifter back in the hole and go on (if not changing cam, must go back with proper AFM lifter) At this point, I usually recommend changing camshaft and go with all non AFM components, effectively mechanically deleting the AFM function. ECM programming still must be done to shut it off.