10.70's is the goal, how do I get there? UPDATE
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10.70's is the goal, how do I get there? UPDATE
Looking to run NHRA Super Street next year. LS NA engine with a powerglide in a 3000lb foxbody. Alky carb setup. Need a setup that is safe to 7000 rpms. Looking at 500-550 hp at the flywheel.
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
Since asking the intial questions I have purchased a 101k running 2001 lq4, set of 799 heads, vic jr manifold and correct msd. My current plan is to mill the heads about .030 to build some compression. Put in some good rod bolts. Fly cut the pistons. Looking to run a solid cam for consistency in the bracket racing side of things (yes it is unneccesary for the power I am going to make). It is important when the races that I win or lose are dependent on consistency in my hotrod.
What rocker arms, lifters, cam, springs would you all recommend?
Do I need a different oil pump, timing chain? Do I need to balance the rotating assembly after rod bolts and fly cutting?
Am I missing anything here? Sound like a good plan?
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
Since asking the intial questions I have purchased a 101k running 2001 lq4, set of 799 heads, vic jr manifold and correct msd. My current plan is to mill the heads about .030 to build some compression. Put in some good rod bolts. Fly cut the pistons. Looking to run a solid cam for consistency in the bracket racing side of things (yes it is unneccesary for the power I am going to make). It is important when the races that I win or lose are dependent on consistency in my hotrod.
What rocker arms, lifters, cam, springs would you all recommend?
Do I need a different oil pump, timing chain? Do I need to balance the rotating assembly after rod bolts and fly cutting?
Am I missing anything here? Sound like a good plan?
Last edited by nobox351y; 12-04-2012 at 08:26 AM.
#2
Launching!
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking to run NHRA Super Street next year. LS NA engine with a powerglide in a 3000lb foxbody. Alky carb setup. Need a setup that is safe to 7000 rpms. Looking at 500-550 hp at the flywheel.
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So LS3 and a cam change, or LQ4/ls2 with heads cam swap.
The lq4 seems like it would be cheaper as the parts are easier to come by than the ls3 stuff, truth or do I not know where to look? Where is the best place to find an ls3 take out engine?
So if the ls2/lq4 route was taken, what heads would it take to get me there? Aftermarket or worked 243's etc?
Is the variable cam timing all computer driven or mechanically driven in the l92?
thanks for all the help?
The lq4 seems like it would be cheaper as the parts are easier to come by than the ls3 stuff, truth or do I not know where to look? Where is the best place to find an ls3 take out engine?
So if the ls2/lq4 route was taken, what heads would it take to get me there? Aftermarket or worked 243's etc?
Is the variable cam timing all computer driven or mechanically driven in the l92?
thanks for all the help?
#6
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (11)
So LS3 and a cam change, or LQ4/ls2 with heads cam swap.
The lq4 seems like it would be cheaper as the parts are easier to come by than the ls3 stuff, truth or do I not know where to look? Where is the best place to find an ls3 take out engine?
So if the ls2/lq4 route was taken, what heads would it take to get me there? Aftermarket or worked 243's etc?
Is the variable cam timing all computer driven or mechanically driven in the l92?
thanks for all the help?
The lq4 seems like it would be cheaper as the parts are easier to come by than the ls3 stuff, truth or do I not know where to look? Where is the best place to find an ls3 take out engine?
So if the ls2/lq4 route was taken, what heads would it take to get me there? Aftermarket or worked 243's etc?
Is the variable cam timing all computer driven or mechanically driven in the l92?
thanks for all the help?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESCALADE-ESV...15fff3&vxp=mtr
The L92 stuff is computer driven
#7
Trending Topics
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
A LS2 or LQ9 would be a great starting point.
What kind of budget will determine a lot of this, but a set of ported LS6 heads(PRC, AI or TEA) 12.3:1-12.8:1 SCR since you're using alky(even more compression would be fine), a cam a lot like the one I have in my car(239/247 .624/.624 110lsa) installed on a 108 ICL and a Vic Jr. or Super Vic would surely get you there. If you used a LS2 or LQ9 I'd up the duration to 243/251 and keep it on a 110+2.
My car went 10.29@128 on motor at 2980lbs. race weight and a best of 6.38@105 in the 1/8(6.54@103 on the 10.29 pass) at the same race weight on 275/60 Hoosier DR's.
The converter will be very important as will shift extension to keep this thing in it's power band. I used a 6000 stall Circle D converter and a 4.11 gear to do this.
Suspension set-up will also be key and having a good set of single or even double adjustable shocks will help tremendously in your short times. I was 60' in between 1.30-1.33 regularly on motor with a best of 1.29 on the 6.38@105 1/8 mile pass and I have double adjustable afco coil overs all the way around.
Hope this helps.
What kind of budget will determine a lot of this, but a set of ported LS6 heads(PRC, AI or TEA) 12.3:1-12.8:1 SCR since you're using alky(even more compression would be fine), a cam a lot like the one I have in my car(239/247 .624/.624 110lsa) installed on a 108 ICL and a Vic Jr. or Super Vic would surely get you there. If you used a LS2 or LQ9 I'd up the duration to 243/251 and keep it on a 110+2.
My car went 10.29@128 on motor at 2980lbs. race weight and a best of 6.38@105 in the 1/8(6.54@103 on the 10.29 pass) at the same race weight on 275/60 Hoosier DR's.
The converter will be very important as will shift extension to keep this thing in it's power band. I used a 6000 stall Circle D converter and a 4.11 gear to do this.
Suspension set-up will also be key and having a good set of single or even double adjustable shocks will help tremendously in your short times. I was 60' in between 1.30-1.33 regularly on motor with a best of 1.29 on the 6.38@105 1/8 mile pass and I have double adjustable afco coil overs all the way around.
Hope this helps.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the responses. I would like to do this as cheaply as possible while keeping reliable.
Unless a deal falls in my lap I am betting that I will go the lq4 route. With buying a take out engine what maintenance should be done? Main bearings, rod bolts, set of rings? I am hoping to avoid a large machine shop bill?
The car is a mini-tubbed by me and caged by burkhart with strange single adjustable shocks all the way around. It works pretty good now. I will probably go with a bte converter. I am guessing it will be fairly loose.
Unless a deal falls in my lap I am betting that I will go the lq4 route. With buying a take out engine what maintenance should be done? Main bearings, rod bolts, set of rings? I am hoping to avoid a large machine shop bill?
The car is a mini-tubbed by me and caged by burkhart with strange single adjustable shocks all the way around. It works pretty good now. I will probably go with a bte converter. I am guessing it will be fairly loose.
#12
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Thanks for the responses. I would like to do this as cheaply as possible while keeping reliable.
Unless a deal falls in my lap I am betting that I will go the lq4 route. With buying a take out engine what maintenance should be done? Main bearings, rod bolts, set of rings? I am hoping to avoid a large machine shop bill?
The car is a mini-tubbed by me and caged by burkhart with strange single adjustable shocks all the way around. It works pretty good now. I will probably go with a bte converter. I am guessing it will be fairly loose.
Unless a deal falls in my lap I am betting that I will go the lq4 route. With buying a take out engine what maintenance should be done? Main bearings, rod bolts, set of rings? I am hoping to avoid a large machine shop bill?
The car is a mini-tubbed by me and caged by burkhart with strange single adjustable shocks all the way around. It works pretty good now. I will probably go with a bte converter. I am guessing it will be fairly loose.
For the budget route again a set of LS6 PRC heads along with AI or TEA can't be beat and you can get a cam set-up with everything needed from us here at Tick for 679.99 http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls6-engines/. We would obviously substitute the V.1 Polluter with the camshaft of your choice.
#14
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Looking to run NHRA Super Street next year. LS NA engine with a powerglide in a 3000lb foxbody. Alky carb setup. Need a setup that is safe to 7000 rpms. Looking at 500-550 hp at the flywheel.
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
Since asking the intial questions I have purchased a 101k running 2001 lq4, set of 799 heads, vic jr manifold and correct msd. My current plan is to mill the heads about .030 to build some compression. Put in some good rod bolts. Fly cut the pistons. Looking to run a solid cam for consistency in the bracket racing side of things (yes it is unneccesary for the power I am going to make). It is important when the races that I win or lose are dependent on consistency in my hotrod.
What rocker arms, lifters, cam, springs would you all recommend?
Do I need a different oil pump, timing chain? Do I need to balance the rotating assembly after rod bolts and fly cutting?
Am I missing anything here? Sound like a good plan?
What is the best way to get there with a budget in mind? Is it possible to take a lq4 or l92/99 and put heads, cam, intake and get it there? With out fly cutting pistons etc?
Since asking the intial questions I have purchased a 101k running 2001 lq4, set of 799 heads, vic jr manifold and correct msd. My current plan is to mill the heads about .030 to build some compression. Put in some good rod bolts. Fly cut the pistons. Looking to run a solid cam for consistency in the bracket racing side of things (yes it is unneccesary for the power I am going to make). It is important when the races that I win or lose are dependent on consistency in my hotrod.
What rocker arms, lifters, cam, springs would you all recommend?
Do I need a different oil pump, timing chain? Do I need to balance the rotating assembly after rod bolts and fly cutting?
Am I missing anything here? Sound like a good plan?
#15
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kearney, NE
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ive been 10.93 in a similar weight car, glide, coan 5200stall, 9inch 4.30s, terrible 60ft 1.60, and in 2700ft DA on 91pump gas with a holley 850 with the downleg cut off. Used a 130K mile LQ9, installed ARP rod Bolts and didnt machine anything! Used LS7 Lifters, Mellings HV oil pump, LS2 chain, and a vindicator cam on a 109LSA... Trickflow As Cast 220cc LS1 heads, GM head gasket.....
Build is on here somewhere
With some suspension upgrades like a ARB, new drag shocks, MT ET Pros, 4.56s, and Upper/Lower Rear Control arms, on top of a 1000cfm Demon and 4hole supersucker im hoping to see 10.40s in a similar DA...
Build is on here somewhere
With some suspension upgrades like a ARB, new drag shocks, MT ET Pros, 4.56s, and Upper/Lower Rear Control arms, on top of a 1000cfm Demon and 4hole supersucker im hoping to see 10.40s in a similar DA...
#16
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kearney, NE
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As for budget I have $3600.00-$4000 into my entire setup sooo far, thats block/heads/trans rebuild kit/converter/gears/bolts/trunion upgrade rockers/Lifters/cam/MSD6010/LTs/etc...
#17
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pretty good numbers there.
Martin, thanks for talking me out of the solid roller. The rockers would be half the budget for the whole build. Hydraulic cam it is.
What kind of cam would I be looking at for this setup Martin?
Martin, thanks for talking me out of the solid roller. The rockers would be half the budget for the whole build. Hydraulic cam it is.
What kind of cam would I be looking at for this setup Martin?
#19
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kearney, NE
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I made 40-50 this year... Car is VERY VERY CONSISTENT
Finally got time to make a pass with it about June or sooo.. Im pretty busy with my full time job, tuning cars, keeping the wife happy and drag racing!!
Not to mention my own wedding!
Finally got time to make a pass with it about June or sooo.. Im pretty busy with my full time job, tuning cars, keeping the wife happy and drag racing!!
Not to mention my own wedding!