Help me choose a 550+whp motor setup!
08-30-2012, 08:40 AM
#21
550whp shouldn't be all that difficult with a $9k budget, especially when you're building the intake manifold and header. A complete 416ci longblock with ported LS3 heads would do it, and they're about $8k shipped.
08-31-2012, 01:30 PM
#24
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A 414-416 will net 480-540.RWHP
A 427 will do 500-550 RWHP
A 440 wil do 530-580 RWHP these are real world figures. Sure every shop has a car thats just off the charts . I bet yours doesn,t match it.
One of the nicest builds is Kevins 427 based LS3 it has made 550 plus. Good luck with your 600RWHP NA build.
08-31-2012, 02:28 PM
#25
I agree. Some peoples dynos are just a little happy. A built LS3 heads and cam will net 480-500 max. RWHP
A 414-416 will net 480-540.RWHP
A 427 will do 500-550 RWHP
A 440 wil do 530-580 RWHP these are real world figures. Sure every shop has a car thats just off the charts . I bet yours doesn,t match it.
One of the nicest builds is Kevins 427 based LS3 it has made 550 plus. Good luck with your 600RWHP NA build.
A 414-416 will net 480-540.RWHP
A 427 will do 500-550 RWHP
A 440 wil do 530-580 RWHP these are real world figures. Sure every shop has a car thats just off the charts . I bet yours doesn,t match it.
One of the nicest builds is Kevins 427 based LS3 it has made 550 plus. Good luck with your 600RWHP NA build.
09-01-2012, 08:39 AM
#27
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Oh ok. I just haven't seen any. Just look at the GM tech issue and look at the LMR builds the stock headed cars aren't at 500 + yet.
I sure there are a few. Its not as easy as throwing in a cam on your new 12 SS and hitting 500 RWHP. If it was why do all the OEMs run blowers on there flag ship cars? Except the 427Vettes.
I sure there are a few. Its not as easy as throwing in a cam on your new 12 SS and hitting 500 RWHP. If it was why do all the OEMs run blowers on there flag ship cars? Except the 427Vettes.
09-01-2012, 09:49 AM
#28
There are a few, not many. Just like there are plenty of ls1's with setups capable of 500 at the wheels but aren't hitting it because of a poor cam selection or other issues.
After speaking with Geoff@eps, he told me the cam he spec'd for me is in 5th gen's making 500 to the ground.
After speaking with Geoff@eps, he told me the cam he spec'd for me is in 5th gen's making 500 to the ground.
09-01-2012, 09:59 AM
#29
We have a Long block LS3 with New LS3 block, Forged pistons, TMS CNC ported L92 heads, TMS cam, Melling high pressure oil pump, ARP head bolts, and much more all with a 1 year warranty rated at 545HP Flywheel (will make much more with a good intake and exhaust but we have to rate them low because of the unknown on the vehicle) All for $7739. This will make you an awesome motor. Give me a shout at Thompson Motorsports, Kyle 972-853-0518.
09-01-2012, 10:05 PM
#30
I agree. Some peoples dynos are just a little happy. A built LS3 heads and cam will net 480-500 max. RWHP
A 414-416 will net 480-540.RWHP
A 427 will do 500-550 RWHP
A 440 wil do 530-580 RWHP these are real world figures. Sure every shop has a car thats just off the charts . I bet yours doesn,t match it.
One of the nicest builds is Kevins 427 based LS3 it has made 550 plus. Good luck with your 600RWHP NA build.
A 414-416 will net 480-540.RWHP
A 427 will do 500-550 RWHP
A 440 wil do 530-580 RWHP these are real world figures. Sure every shop has a car thats just off the charts . I bet yours doesn,t match it.
One of the nicest builds is Kevins 427 based LS3 it has made 550 plus. Good luck with your 600RWHP NA build.
Made 850rwhp on an .082 jet.
Thompsons price seems hard to beat, if you need a cam for that motor let me know!
09-02-2012, 01:20 AM
#31
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Experience; First up the build is for track as stated by OP, off coarse i have a feeling this is an all around fun car, so i say keep it where you can have the must fun.
First with any build is selecting an stable platform from where you can go different ways and do anything you want cause based on my own personal experience, working on, and building our cars is a lot of fun, and changing things around is like the norm, so a solid platform is key I say a cast iron block and i know must will say whaaaaat, but unless you love to work hard and hardly have any fun, get a cast iron block and a 3/4 thick deck heads so you never have to worry about changing head gaskets or over heating because with either one of those you aren't going anywhere, and if later you wake up to a different tune and want to go boost, all you do is change the pistons and add your favorite power adder, cause i now later we ran into more money.
Now more specific, for the 9k budget i say Summit LQ9 prepped and seasoned
.030 over block is a very attractive deal, at about $750. and stay at 4" stroke max then go with Texas Speed ls3 6 bolt heads even if the block isn't 6 bolts cause the extra bolt loop adds additional strength to the head, plus that block is easily converted to a 5 bolt by adding the outside studs, anybody can do it and those heads are easier to resale plus they cost the same, and they flow a ton of air. Next must important is the camshaft cause is the brain of the motor but it must be selected taking into consideration a long list of variables, so it must be selected for the particular application using software designed for this purpose. For $25. bucks i answer 3 full pages about my car and got the rite cam the first time from Camhelp@Guerra group.com
Next you must select a set of connecting rods and crankshaft thats is going to exceed your power output otherwise later you will be limited to the capacity that you have, i like the Quality and price of Scot non twisted forging crank
$780. at SDPC and will take 1,200 chp the rods, got a use your money here cause the good ones are around a thousand and can't cut corners, i personally prefer I beam cause is a better structure than the H and Callies I beam race HD at $870. from SDPC is a good deal for a rod you can trust, I'm sure some of the great vendors here will get you some better deals if you shop. . The intake and the easiest path of less resistance is Fast LSXR fuel delivery is up to you, if your car have a good tunable ECM just go with that. You'll need a 3" dual exhaust. Compression just under 13 to 1 and save for an 18 to 1 compression high torque starter cause the OEM is inadequate . When you finish your build if you want more speed make your car lighter, i found is as much fun as building the engine for power, here is a hint when you order your cam place you shifting point to 6,700 rpm and red line at 7.300 and you'll end up with a mild race engine that have a ton of low end torque.
Hope this will help you, have fun and do it rite so you only have to do it once.
First with any build is selecting an stable platform from where you can go different ways and do anything you want cause based on my own personal experience, working on, and building our cars is a lot of fun, and changing things around is like the norm, so a solid platform is key I say a cast iron block and i know must will say whaaaaat, but unless you love to work hard and hardly have any fun, get a cast iron block and a 3/4 thick deck heads so you never have to worry about changing head gaskets or over heating because with either one of those you aren't going anywhere, and if later you wake up to a different tune and want to go boost, all you do is change the pistons and add your favorite power adder, cause i now later we ran into more money.
Now more specific, for the 9k budget i say Summit LQ9 prepped and seasoned
.030 over block is a very attractive deal, at about $750. and stay at 4" stroke max then go with Texas Speed ls3 6 bolt heads even if the block isn't 6 bolts cause the extra bolt loop adds additional strength to the head, plus that block is easily converted to a 5 bolt by adding the outside studs, anybody can do it and those heads are easier to resale plus they cost the same, and they flow a ton of air. Next must important is the camshaft cause is the brain of the motor but it must be selected taking into consideration a long list of variables, so it must be selected for the particular application using software designed for this purpose. For $25. bucks i answer 3 full pages about my car and got the rite cam the first time from Camhelp@Guerra group.com
Next you must select a set of connecting rods and crankshaft thats is going to exceed your power output otherwise later you will be limited to the capacity that you have, i like the Quality and price of Scot non twisted forging crank
$780. at SDPC and will take 1,200 chp the rods, got a use your money here cause the good ones are around a thousand and can't cut corners, i personally prefer I beam cause is a better structure than the H and Callies I beam race HD at $870. from SDPC is a good deal for a rod you can trust, I'm sure some of the great vendors here will get you some better deals if you shop. . The intake and the easiest path of less resistance is Fast LSXR fuel delivery is up to you, if your car have a good tunable ECM just go with that. You'll need a 3" dual exhaust. Compression just under 13 to 1 and save for an 18 to 1 compression high torque starter cause the OEM is inadequate . When you finish your build if you want more speed make your car lighter, i found is as much fun as building the engine for power, here is a hint when you order your cam place you shifting point to 6,700 rpm and red line at 7.300 and you'll end up with a mild race engine that have a ton of low end torque.
Hope this will help you, have fun and do it rite so you only have to do it once.
Last edited by CAMSTER; 09-02-2012 at 12:36 PM.
09-02-2012, 12:03 PM
#32
First up the build is for track as stated by OP, off coarse i have a feeling this is an all around fun car, so i say keep it where you can have the must fun.
First with any build is selecting an stable platform from where you can go different ways and do anything you want cause based on my own personal experience, working on, and building our cars is a lot of fun, and changing things around is like the norm, so a solid platform is key I say a cast iron block and i know must will say whaaaaat, but unless you love to work hard and hardly have any fun, get a cast iron block and a 3/4 thick deck heads so you never have to worry about changing head gaskets or over heating because with either one of those you aren't going anywhere, and if later you wake up to a different tune and want to go boost, all you do is change the pistons and add your favorite power adder, cause i now later we ran into more money.
Now more specific, for the 9k budget i say Summit LQ9 prepped and seasoned
.030 over block is a very attractive deal, at about $750. and stay at 4" stroke max then go with Texas Speed ls3 6 bolt heads even if the block isn't 6 bolts cause the extra bolt loop adds additional strength to the head, plus that block is easily converted to a 5 bolt by adding the outside studs, anybody can do it and those heads are easier to resale plus they cost the same, and they flow a ton of air. Next must important is the camshaft cause is the brain of the motor but it must be selected taking into consideration a long list of variables, so it must be selected for the particular application using software designed for this purpose. For $25. bucks i answer 3 full pages about my car and got the rite cam the first time from Camhelp@Guerra group.com
Next you must select a set of connecting rods and crankshaft thats is going to exceed your power output otherwise later you will be limited to the capacity that you have, i like the Quality and price of Scott non twisted forging crank
$780. at SDPC and will take 1,200 chp the rods, got a use your money here cause the good ones are around a thousand and can't cut corners, i personally prefer I beam cause is a better structure than the H and Callies I beam race HD at $870. from SDPC is a good deal for a rod you can trust, I'm sure some of the great vendors here will get you some better deals if you shop. . The intake and the easiest path of less resistance is Fast LSXR fuel delivery is up to you, if your car have a good tunable ECM just go with that. You'll need a 3" dual exhaust. Compression just under 13 to 1 and save for an 18 to 1 compression high torque starter cause the OEM is inadequate . When you finish your build if you want more speed make your car lighter, i found is as much fun as building the engine for power, here is a hint when you order your cam place you shifting point to 6,700 rpm and red line at 7.300 and you'll end up with a mild race engine that have a ton of low end torque.
Hope this will help you, have fun and do it rite so you only have to do it once.
First with any build is selecting an stable platform from where you can go different ways and do anything you want cause based on my own personal experience, working on, and building our cars is a lot of fun, and changing things around is like the norm, so a solid platform is key I say a cast iron block and i know must will say whaaaaat, but unless you love to work hard and hardly have any fun, get a cast iron block and a 3/4 thick deck heads so you never have to worry about changing head gaskets or over heating because with either one of those you aren't going anywhere, and if later you wake up to a different tune and want to go boost, all you do is change the pistons and add your favorite power adder, cause i now later we ran into more money.
Now more specific, for the 9k budget i say Summit LQ9 prepped and seasoned
.030 over block is a very attractive deal, at about $750. and stay at 4" stroke max then go with Texas Speed ls3 6 bolt heads even if the block isn't 6 bolts cause the extra bolt loop adds additional strength to the head, plus that block is easily converted to a 5 bolt by adding the outside studs, anybody can do it and those heads are easier to resale plus they cost the same, and they flow a ton of air. Next must important is the camshaft cause is the brain of the motor but it must be selected taking into consideration a long list of variables, so it must be selected for the particular application using software designed for this purpose. For $25. bucks i answer 3 full pages about my car and got the rite cam the first time from Camhelp@Guerra group.com
Next you must select a set of connecting rods and crankshaft thats is going to exceed your power output otherwise later you will be limited to the capacity that you have, i like the Quality and price of Scott non twisted forging crank
$780. at SDPC and will take 1,200 chp the rods, got a use your money here cause the good ones are around a thousand and can't cut corners, i personally prefer I beam cause is a better structure than the H and Callies I beam race HD at $870. from SDPC is a good deal for a rod you can trust, I'm sure some of the great vendors here will get you some better deals if you shop. . The intake and the easiest path of less resistance is Fast LSXR fuel delivery is up to you, if your car have a good tunable ECM just go with that. You'll need a 3" dual exhaust. Compression just under 13 to 1 and save for an 18 to 1 compression high torque starter cause the OEM is inadequate . When you finish your build if you want more speed make your car lighter, i found is as much fun as building the engine for power, here is a hint when you order your cam place you shifting point to 6,700 rpm and red line at 7.300 and you'll end up with a mild race engine that have a ton of low end torque.
Hope this will help you, have fun and do it rite so you only have to do it once.
09-02-2012, 12:34 PM
#33
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The OP is looking for help to get started with his engine build the rite way and i was talking to him. If spelling is your forte God bless you as for me, not nearly as perfect, but then I'm not interested in anything other than helping him, thanks for your correction.
09-02-2012, 01:28 PM
#35
The grammar you type here kind of shows the character of the person you are. If a sponsor typed like you he/she would never be taken seriously for business to be thrown to he/she.
So, how are we to take your advice of how to build a good powerful set up with the way you typed your last two posts?
09-04-2012, 03:02 PM
#36
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It's not just the spelling dude. Telling him a "Scot" crank, are you serious? That's not helping anybody if they go around searching for a crank. There is no punctuation in your run on of a paragraph. You capitalize when you don't need to and vice versa.
The grammar you type here kind of shows the character of the person you are. If a sponsor typed like you he/she would never be taken seriously for business to be thrown to he/she.
So, how are we to take your advice of how to build a good powerful set up with the way you typed your last two posts?
The grammar you type here kind of shows the character of the person you are. If a sponsor typed like you he/she would never be taken seriously for business to be thrown to he/she.
So, how are we to take your advice of how to build a good powerful set up with the way you typed your last two posts?
09-04-2012, 03:16 PM
#37
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AS far as i am informed this block is ready bore out .030 honed and ready to be assembled, have you had any personal experience with this block, summit guaranties their parts, and they are as car guys as they come, I'm not endorsing anybody but not sure why they will send away something they got to take back. Tell me about your experiece with the block... Thanks.
09-04-2012, 03:16 PM
#38
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We had a 416 on our dyno last weekend with close to 13:1 compression, small bore LS3 heads, hydraulic roller that spins to a maximum of 7500rpm that made 575rwhp through a power glide and a nitrous stall.
Made 850rwhp on an .082 jet.
Thompsons price seems hard to beat, if you need a cam for that motor let me know!
Made 850rwhp on an .082 jet.
Thompsons price seems hard to beat, if you need a cam for that motor let me know!
09-04-2012, 03:29 PM
#39
I don't have to have experience with a certain block to know that's not how it works. Each and every block has to be honed to fit the pistons. Simply because different pistons are made from different materials that have different expansion rates requiring different piston to bore clearances.
The summit block is not a good starting point for a performance oriented build for that reason.
The summit block is not a good starting point for a performance oriented build for that reason.
09-04-2012, 04:54 PM
#40
Thanks for all your love but this thread is not about me or my grammar, and in fact i am using a Scot crank after my expensive dragon slayer cracked in the middle and when contacted, the manufacturer they told it was trash, i believed them. Don't look at the wrap, consider it's contents.
There you go with a Scot crank. Does the "a" not work on the keyboard or is it just missing the the key?
As far as your debate with a "Scat vs. Callies" I remember your posts. Just a tid bit of info, good machining will make most cranks last thru alot of power. Even a stock one.
When considering the contents, why is it that I don't see Kurt, Erik, or Billy Briggs using a Scat crank on their 7 second motor builds. I guess they they consider the contents of a Scat box
