Cleaning Deck Surface for New Head Gaskets
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: North Bay, CA
I had read about doing this, however I opted to use scotch brite instead of sand paper before I realized it had aluminum oxide particles in it. i figured sanding would create aluminum dust and particles that might make their way into the engine. 
I was wrong as it seems as though Scotch brite does the same thing.
DG
I was wrong as it seems as though Scotch brite does the same thing.DG
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 513
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From: LONG ISLAND, NY; MADE IN THE USA
........try the 97-00ish graphite gasket cleaning
looks good, I'd get out the light and inspect all the bolt holes for junk/coolant and run an head bolt with a notch ground in it or the ARP thread 'cleaner'
also, it's a bit easier to have the lifter/trays out and stuff a shop rag as others have mentioned, shop vac the lifter valley and rag prior to removing rag
GM top end engine cleaner works well to break down gasket material.........sea foam is prolly pretty close
also as others posted, oil dump and filter change always help cut back on the paxil intake after the initial start
bolt on the heads and let 'er eat.
looks good, I'd get out the light and inspect all the bolt holes for junk/coolant and run an head bolt with a notch ground in it or the ARP thread 'cleaner'
also, it's a bit easier to have the lifter/trays out and stuff a shop rag as others have mentioned, shop vac the lifter valley and rag prior to removing rag
GM top end engine cleaner works well to break down gasket material.........sea foam is prolly pretty close
also as others posted, oil dump and filter change always help cut back on the paxil intake after the initial start
bolt on the heads and let 'er eat.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 242
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I had read about doing this, however I opted to use scotch brite instead of sand paper before I realized it had aluminum oxide particles in it. i figured sanding would create aluminum dust and particles that might make their way into the engine. I was wrong as it seems as though Scotch brite does the same thing.
DG
I was wrong as it seems as though Scotch brite does the same thing.DG
Bump from the dead I'm doing this right now. I'm just using brake cleaner, sea foam, plastic putty knifes, and a stiff bristle nylon brush. It's taking forever and was about to use a Dremel with a fine pad but thought that would be a bad idea. It's take about 4 hours so far but I'm just going to keep doing it by hand. The most important thing is to not use anything harder than the aluminum...
Also I'm cleaning the deck surface BEFORE removing the stock cam and lifters. Then I'll pour some junk oil in the lifter passages before installing the new one. And I'm using my shop vac to clean everything up. I vacuum every passage before rotating the motor.
So I think this is the best way to do it? I'm just going to keep going
Also I'm cleaning the deck surface BEFORE removing the stock cam and lifters. Then I'll pour some junk oil in the lifter passages before installing the new one. And I'm using my shop vac to clean everything up. I vacuum every passage before rotating the motor.
So I think this is the best way to do it? I'm just going to keep going
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Joined: Jul 2009
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I think S10xGN's suggestion of Kerosene, brake clean, and shop air is the best bet. For me anyways. I'd never use bristle disc of any kind nor any scotchbrite. Chemicals, compressed air, lint free shop towels and physical labor is the way I always do it. Its going to take time.
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 661
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From: S.F. East bay
FINALLY IT LOOKS LIKE WE FOUND SOMETHING WE CAN AGREE ON. I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT YOU, and you seem to think you know everything about me.
Thank you for once again avoiding the question and not providing the answer I have asked you for repeatedly.
Now its time for us to part ways; I may not have your superior level of experience when it comes to engine building, however I am intelligent enough to know when I am beating a dead horse. I will ask you politely not to post in ANY of my threads again, and I will be sure to avoid anything you create as well.
DG
Thank you for once again avoiding the question and not providing the answer I have asked you for repeatedly.
Now its time for us to part ways; I may not have your superior level of experience when it comes to engine building, however I am intelligent enough to know when I am beating a dead horse. I will ask you politely not to post in ANY of my threads again, and I will be sure to avoid anything you create as well.
DG
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: S.F. East bay
I wouldnt say wierd....just lazy and forgetful of checking thread post dates......plus I'm trying to remove excess crusty graphite gasket material so I thought I'd cruise this thread lookin for help. ......but if you think that's weird. ...too each their own!!! Gonna make an iron l33 with an asa cam out of a '99 lm7......basically putting in 4.8 flat-tops and 64cc heads with 210cc runners with 2.02" intake 1.575" exhaust valves hopefully I'm gonna get 10:1 or higher compression with ls6 .051gaskets......but Yea I need to clean my deck
I didn't read all the posts so this may have been mentioned
I clean the surfaces with razor blades at a 90 degree angle to the block to prevent the blades digging in. In some cases I finish it off with very light sand paper. I then blow out debris with compressed air around the pistons and blow out all the head bolt holes really good after I thread chase them. I thread chase the holes with an old head bolt. I take an old head bolt and cut grooves in it with a die grinder and cut off wheel, cutting down the length of the bolt to duplicate what a thread chaser looks like.
When I'm done I drop the drain plug out of the pan and put a drain pan under it and pour motor oil over the cam and lifter holes to flush debris out the bottom of the pan, that way when I'm done the only thing in there is oil, no chemicals.
And I just noticed this is another old *** thread brought up by dawgs74
I clean the surfaces with razor blades at a 90 degree angle to the block to prevent the blades digging in. In some cases I finish it off with very light sand paper. I then blow out debris with compressed air around the pistons and blow out all the head bolt holes really good after I thread chase them. I thread chase the holes with an old head bolt. I take an old head bolt and cut grooves in it with a die grinder and cut off wheel, cutting down the length of the bolt to duplicate what a thread chaser looks like.
When I'm done I drop the drain plug out of the pan and put a drain pan under it and pour motor oil over the cam and lifter holes to flush debris out the bottom of the pan, that way when I'm done the only thing in there is oil, no chemicals.
And I just noticed this is another old *** thread brought up by dawgs74
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 199
Likes: 20
Hmm, scotch brite leaves crap everywhere. Tape off everything but the deck.
Machinist steel block wrapped in 500- 1000 grit sandpaper with oil, even presure and go across the deck. Turn it upside down and flush it all with kerosene in a pump sprayer, (Home depot has 1 gallon pump sprayers for $7). Several rounds of kerosene and compresed air. Flip it back over and wipe everything down with acetone.
Roloc discs, or any air powered tool slings crap everywhere.
Machinist steel block wrapped in 500- 1000 grit sandpaper with oil, even presure and go across the deck. Turn it upside down and flush it all with kerosene in a pump sprayer, (Home depot has 1 gallon pump sprayers for $7). Several rounds of kerosene and compresed air. Flip it back over and wipe everything down with acetone.
Roloc discs, or any air powered tool slings crap everywhere.
And it trashes aluminum, at least some maybe not all of it. Seen people use that **** and the block looks like it's been at the bottom of the sea for years after it's done. No need at all to go the oven cleaner route, in my opinion, there are too many better ways out there.
