iron or ali.... which is better
In the LS world the bigger the bore the more your cylinder head choices start to open up. For example, with a 6.2 block you can run the Texas Speed PRC LS7 small bore head which requires a 4.065 bore, which you really wouldn't want to do to an iron block because it will make the cylinder walls thin. Those heads will make a ton of power if you decide to stroke the 6.2 out to a 416 or something of that nature. Don't worry about strength, there are guys in the forced induction section that push the alum blocks to 8-9-1000hp. In stock form
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
Iron is stronger. As far as bore size thats what they make sleves for. I have always wanted to make a 4.125 bore X 3.622 stroke 387 CI motor that would breath deep and spin to the stratosphere.
As far as sleeves. Why would you want to sleeve a block to get bore when there already might be a block you can use that already has enough bore. Nobody would want to buy a block to then have to sleeve it unless they want the superdeck from ERL and their stronger sleeves.
In the LS world the bigger the bore the more your cylinder head choices start to open up. For example, with a 6.2 block you can run the Texas Speed PRC LS7 small bore head which requires a 4.065 bore, which you really wouldn't want to do to an iron block because it will make the cylinder walls thin. Those heads will make a ton of power if you decide to stroke the 6.2 out to a 416 or something of that nature. Don't worry about strength, there are guys in the forced induction section that push the alum blocks to 8-9-1000hp. In stock form
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
Trending Topics
That is your own engine and I would do the same thing, but I would not tell the masses on ls1tech that it is ok to punch out an iron block that far and then some one throws 28lbs of boost or 250 shot and detonates and it cracks.
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
I know you know and I know the limitations on these blocks and what we would do to our own motors, but there are alot of guys who don't know so I keep them on the safe side of 4.030-040 on an iron block.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
but how much would you spend to remove 110# off the car to compensate?
realistically you would need to make another 20-30hp to offset the weight and maintain the ability to 60' like you would with a lighter front axle weight
realistically you would need to make another 20-30hp to offset the weight and maintain the ability to 60' like you would with a lighter front axle weight
Id take aluminum just for the fact that 110 extra pounds is not something i would want in an already heavy platform. It all depends on the budget you have and what matters most to you.
I just get a kick out of it, when I read a build thread they do a LQ4 build or 370 iron build.
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
What's your budget?
And FWIW......I asked the question about weight difference between the two blocks and how it feels for city driving to go to an iron block. I was able to get rides in two Trans Ams that switched to iron.......there is ZERO difference in feel. So if you're going for big power, go iron. 800 RWHP or less, stay aluminum, but you'll need to resleeve an aluminum block which costs like $1,600.
.
.
I just get a kick out of it, when I read a build thread they do a LQ4 build or 370 iron build.
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
Then about 6 months later they are posting up all these pics of tubular k members and a-arms, pulling the carpet, throwing the A/C out, no radio etc.
"OMG i'm under 3400# now with these parts it should drop off 2/10ths!!"
Yup, only cost you $1500+ in parts, no comforts (A/C, sound deadening, carpet etc.) when you could have all that for another $4-500 or so up front to get a aluminum block and maintain the same weight.
My car is 3360# (1860 on front axle) with me in it, and a completely full tank(16 gal). I have a/c, cruise, heat, all the sound deadener, carpet, etc. No comforts have been touched. The difference with an iron block as the only change would be 3470# (1970 on front axle), doesnt seem like much until you type out the numbers
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.
That makes no sense. It doesn't take a tubular k member, a arms, and removal of every creature comfort to lose a buck ten off the car.
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.
With the right setup in the front end, you can lose the spare tire and jack, move the battery and not ever notice the added weight, and still shift more weight to the rear on acceleration....for 4-500 less than an aluminum block.
