Project YOLO: The Quest for 100 HP per Liter
03-12-2014, 12:31 PM
#221
Hah, you have the most popular build thread on here. I used you short block pic to make a side by side for my thread, hope u don't mind... I really need to just for a c6z shell for the motor instead of putting it in my camaro
03-12-2014, 01:53 PM
#222
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Help! I'm wondering about cam specs.....Are the cam specs for this build quoted with 1.8 rockers ? I have noticed that my 620 lift cam becomes 680 going from 1.7 to 1.8's hence needing a very beefy valve train and I have read somewhere that with 1.8's on my ls3 heads I would need to open up the guides? (My wallets giving me a dirty look).
Just read che's add. .001 tir with there +/-.0005 could leave you with .0005 for valve and guide expansion. I don't care what they state that is crazy for a street app. JMO (registered mold and die maker) Sorry che but oil impregnated bronze and titanium expands at 300*. Can u say interference fit! Read there add again where it states that there customers are obsessed. We here are all a bit OCD types but please don't do that with this awesome build. Factory .004 sounds great for longevity and a good amount of Texas miles.
Just read che's add. .001 tir with there +/-.0005 could leave you with .0005 for valve and guide expansion. I don't care what they state that is crazy for a street app. JMO (registered mold and die maker) Sorry che but oil impregnated bronze and titanium expands at 300*. Can u say interference fit! Read there add again where it states that there customers are obsessed. We here are all a bit OCD types but please don't do that with this awesome build. Factory .004 sounds great for longevity and a good amount of Texas miles.
Lol, on the CHE's! I'm glad to the opinion of a mold and die maker on the press fit bushings! I'll stick with my comp trunnion upgraded stockers then.
Lol, no please feel free to use it! Actually, it'll be different looking by the time I dyno it. My piano black painted intake and Altenator will be installed by then.
03-12-2014, 04:25 PM
#224
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Edit: just saw you went Superdeck I. Big time build!
Last edited by 427zm; 03-12-2014 at 04:46 PM.
03-12-2014, 04:48 PM
#226
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Just commented on your build thread. Take it from my experience, you want more cam. My current 235/251 114, is more tame than my previous 230/230 112 I had in my LS6!
03-12-2014, 04:55 PM
#227
This is actually my dd currently, not a race car or play toy. I may get a c7z later but for now I wanted something that has been run by a lot of people that has had decent results and stability while still retaining factory drivability. I figured if I wanted to go bigger later I could but this seamed a safe bet and will eat up e85 with my dynamic
03-12-2014, 04:59 PM
#229
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You're CR will tame the cam. My 15* of overlap feels like nothing. The car doesn't shake, doesn't die, doesn't buck at low cruising speeds. The only time you can tell its decent sized, is when your hardly moving in a parking lot. Then it'll buck, but that's it.
03-12-2014, 06:49 PM
#233
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03-12-2014, 08:09 PM
#234
the only reason i went long snout is because i couldnt say 100% this motor will be in this car for ever. Wanted to have the option to put it into something else of road race and swap it to dry sump without too much work
03-12-2014, 10:22 PM
#237
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Well, Patrick @ QMS did the street tune, and as done a ton of LS7 work and builds over the past few years. For the base tune I'm running on now, he threw in a tune for their QM 600, and then altered it a little. He loaded 43 maps to the PCM. It's probably the main reason it is running as well as it does. Its on 24* of timing right now. As for the knock sensors, my old sensors were just swapped over. I think that may be the only sensors we reused.
Last edited by 427zm; 03-12-2014 at 11:09 PM.
03-12-2014, 10:38 PM
#238
So they tapped the side of the block to use the old style sensors and put them on the side of the block? So many people say to do this and that it's the "easiest" way to go about it. After talking to a lot of people on here it seems like even though it's the "easiest" it may not work any better then switching over to the new style in the tune. Ive found it difficult to get any real answers on this. Our motors being forged internals are going to make more noise than a factory ones so I would think that that settings and thresholds would have to be adjusted. Then on top of that with mine being a superdeck I would think mine would be way different which is why I'm not sure who to get to tune it
03-12-2014, 11:20 PM
#239
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So they tapped the side of the block to use the old style sensors and put them on the side of the block? So many people say to do this and that it's the "easiest" way to go about it. After talking to a lot of people on here it seems like even though it's the "easiest" it may not work any better then switching over to the new style in the tune. Ive found it difficult to get any real answers on this. Our motors being forged internals are going to make more noise than a factory ones so I would think that that settings and thresholds would have to be adjusted. Then on top of that with mine being a superdeck I would think mine would be way different which is why I'm not sure who to get to tune it
03-12-2014, 11:23 PM
#240
I meant the noise the knock sensors pick up, not audible noise per say. I'm in corpus, there is a couple shops here in town that I'll see if they are up to the task, if not I'll have to tow it to Houston see what LMR can do