LS1 Rebuild to 500-600HP
01-07-2014, 08:30 AM
#21
The LS3 525 is BHP. There is a HUGE difference between 525BHP and WHP in an N/A motor. Your LS1 will get you to 525BHP.
Junkyard LS3's in okay running condition are not cheap. But is you want to add an LSA charger then you limit your options. You have to use the above listed signal box to run the LS3 with a LS1 PCM. It's not all plug n play.
Junkyard LS3's in okay running condition are not cheap. But is you want to add an LSA charger then you limit your options. You have to use the above listed signal box to run the LS3 with a LS1 PCM. It's not all plug n play.
01-07-2014, 08:33 AM
#22
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Thanks. I've since learned that I will definitely need to go with at least an LS3 block. Considering the crate motor is set at 525HP, I figure a few tweeks with the crankshaft and cam should help get a little better. That's what I'm working towards anyway. I'm not sure that the 525HP is rwhp or not, but it's still within my range that I'm attempting.
01-07-2014, 08:33 AM
#23
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01-07-2014, 08:35 AM
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01-07-2014, 08:38 AM
#25
No. That's N/A. My motor in my sig is a 346 cube motor with cheap heads and a smallish cam and got pretty close to 500bhp. 420whp through cats and dual 2.5" exhaust.
Remove the cats, go to a better exhaust, bigger cam and good heads you would easily add another 30-40hp to that if not more.
The reason why a 6.2L superchaged motor has "only" 50-60hp more than a normal H/C/I LS1 is reliability, emissions and MPG.
Said supercharged 6.2L motor has a TON more potential in it if you throw MPG and emissions out the window.
Remove the cats, go to a better exhaust, bigger cam and good heads you would easily add another 30-40hp to that if not more.
The reason why a 6.2L superchaged motor has "only" 50-60hp more than a normal H/C/I LS1 is reliability, emissions and MPG.
Said supercharged 6.2L motor has a TON more potential in it if you throw MPG and emissions out the window.
01-07-2014, 08:45 AM
#26
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Ok so the LSA Supercharger is what I really want to add later in the future when I can afford it. That is really the only reason I was looking at needing to do an LS3 head. If I can still get to my goal with the current LS1 motor, then I'm game for saving the block. They do sell a "retrofit" kit for non LS3/LSA motor... but I think it comes with the LS3 heads, which we already have determined as not going to work on the LS1 engine.
http://www.nightmare-breed.com/chevy...l-install-kit/
I still would like to change the crank and add the 3.75" stroke. 383
http://www.nightmare-breed.com/chevy...l-install-kit/
I still would like to change the crank and add the 3.75" stroke. 383
01-07-2014, 08:51 AM
#27
You could always just do the LSA supercharger now. I believe Ballistic Speed and GMPP both sell small bore LS3-style heads that will work with your LS1 and still bolt up to the square-port LSA supercharger. I think they're around $1,300-$1,400 per set, which really isn't that bad. That should easily get you to the 500-600 rwhp mark AND be pretty driveable.
I know someone that has a CTS-V LSA supercharger assembly + parts for sale! (me)
BTW, the "400" 3.75" stroke cranks were used to make strokers in the old SBC design. LS engines use a totally different crank w/4.0" stroke to get up around the 383 mark.
I know someone that has a CTS-V LSA supercharger assembly + parts for sale! (me)
BTW, the "400" 3.75" stroke cranks were used to make strokers in the old SBC design. LS engines use a totally different crank w/4.0" stroke to get up around the 383 mark.
01-07-2014, 08:56 AM
#28
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You could always just do the LSA supercharger now. I believe Ballistic Speed and GMPP both sell small bore LS3-style heads that will work with your LS1 and still bolt up to the square-port LSA supercharger. I think they're around $1,300-$1,400 per set, which really isn't that bad. That should easily get you to the 500-600 rwhp mark AND be pretty driveable.
I know someone that has a CTS-V LSA supercharger assembly + parts for sale! (me)
BTW, the "400" 3.75" stroke cranks were used to make strokers in the old SBC design. LS engines use a totally different crank w/4.0" stroke to get up around the 383 mark.
I know someone that has a CTS-V LSA supercharger assembly + parts for sale! (me)
BTW, the "400" 3.75" stroke cranks were used to make strokers in the old SBC design. LS engines use a totally different crank w/4.0" stroke to get up around the 383 mark.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-3-75-Str...t/221291246766
01-07-2014, 08:57 AM
#29
383 is a 4" stroke.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
01-07-2014, 09:00 AM
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383 is a 4" stroke.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
As far as the supercharger not fitting in the 4th Gen... I did not know that.
01-07-2014, 09:02 AM
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383 is a 4" stroke.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
Youc annot use a SBC crank. The cheapest 4" crank is the TSP one in the $700 range I believe.
There is also the rather HUGE issue of why no one makes an LSA/LS9 superchager kit for the 4th gen Camaro and it isn't the port shape. It doesn't fit without cutting the firewall. Maybe start to consider a procharger or turbo. Keep the LS1 and boost it later.
01-07-2014, 09:08 AM
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Ok. It's the bore that is the change. I read that I would have to go 0.030 over on the bore to make it 383 with the 3.75". Is it possible to bore it to 0.030 over to accomplish that? Also, going from 5.7" piston rods to 6"... with that help any?
01-07-2014, 09:12 AM
#34
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383 is achieved by stroking( make the range of travel longer by changing the crank). a 396 or higher will need boring(widening the width of the piston( tech the chamber) and in most LS cases need sleeves(wet or standard))
01-07-2014, 09:12 AM
#35
Forget 3.75" and ANYTHING SBC related.
The stock GM v8 crank for most motors is a 3.622" stroke. Shorter for the 4.8L and longer for the LS7 427 motor. But I believe those are the only exceptions. The stock rod is 6.098". Aftermarket rods are usually 6.125"
Your MAX safe bore is 3.905" end of story. Assuming you don't resleeve. The SBC was able to go .030" over because they were iron and didn't have to worry about how thick the cylinder sleeve was. You can take a 5.3L iron truck block and bore it out pretty big. Not sure what the max is but it's different for N/A and power adders.
The stock GM v8 crank for most motors is a 3.622" stroke. Shorter for the 4.8L and longer for the LS7 427 motor. But I believe those are the only exceptions. The stock rod is 6.098". Aftermarket rods are usually 6.125"
Your MAX safe bore is 3.905" end of story. Assuming you don't resleeve. The SBC was able to go .030" over because they were iron and didn't have to worry about how thick the cylinder sleeve was. You can take a 5.3L iron truck block and bore it out pretty big. Not sure what the max is but it's different for N/A and power adders.
01-07-2014, 09:19 AM
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Forget 3.75" and ANYTHING SBC related.
The stock GM v8 crank for most motors is a 3.622" stroke. Shorter for the 4.8L and longer for the LS7 427 motor. But I believe those are the only exceptions. The stock rod is 6.098". Aftermarket rods are usually 6.125"
Your MAX safe bore is 3.905" end of story. Assuming you don't resleeve. The SBC was able to go .030" over because they were iron and didn't have to worry about how thick the cylinder sleeve was. You can take a 5.3L iron truck block and bore it out pretty big. Not sure what the max is but it's different for N/A and power adders.
The stock GM v8 crank for most motors is a 3.622" stroke. Shorter for the 4.8L and longer for the LS7 427 motor. But I believe those are the only exceptions. The stock rod is 6.098". Aftermarket rods are usually 6.125"
Your MAX safe bore is 3.905" end of story. Assuming you don't resleeve. The SBC was able to go .030" over because they were iron and didn't have to worry about how thick the cylinder sleeve was. You can take a 5.3L iron truck block and bore it out pretty big. Not sure what the max is but it's different for N/A and power adders.
01-07-2014, 09:24 AM
#37
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So.... Maybe I'm remembering my day with the LT1 (95 Z28)... I was always told I could change the crank and make it a 383. Are you saying that it isn't possible with the LS1/LS6 block? I read that there were 25% LS6 blocks used in 2002. I'm deployed at the moment, so I cannot physically check my motor to verify if it's the LS1 or LS6 block.
01-07-2014, 09:25 AM
#38
LS1 or LS6 it doesn't matter. They are almost the same block. All teh power came fromt eh top end. better heads, intake and bigger cam.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.
01-07-2014, 09:26 AM
#39
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Ok. If a 3.75" crank won't work to make it 383.... what's my option. Sorry for the "noob" questions, I want to research as much as I can before I return home and get the project going.
01-07-2014, 09:28 AM
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LS1 or LS6 it doesn't matter. They are almost the same block. All teh power came fromt eh top end. better heads, intake and bigger cam.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.
You can swap the crank straight over to a 4" aftermarket. It will net you 381.8ci. BUT you should ALWAYS have the bores honed. You also have to have the rotating assembly balanced. Just swapping in a crank that isn't balanced to your rods and pistons would be bad.
Stock bore is 3.898". A hone of .004"-.006" will freshen up the motor allowing the new rings to seal.