Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

I used the O-ring that was on my 98' LS1 pickup tube. So all main bolts and rod bolts will need be replaced?

strmachinist

Depends on who you talk to from what I have seen? I would like to know GMs advice on that. I know that tourque to yeild bolts are meant to be tourqued once. Just like the cylinder heads bolts. I dont doubt you could re use them with success and guys do. But I beleive only because they are over engineered from the General. And well the bottom end duz have 6 bolt deep skirt block so mains arent as important as rods. Ask around . And If the pickup was not from that oil pump I would really want to varify its correct. Ask at gm what part # are from the two different years and see if they are the same?

strmachinist

I wish I could up load a pic here but I havent figured it out yet. There are different diameter pickups if you saw the picture i took of the two different O rings you would "see" what I mean lol. And they are close enough that it would be easy to mistake a good fit. I got my engine from the dealership with it having the wrong Oring and the wrong length pushrods.They were trying to figure out what was wrong with it too. You never know what youre going to find.

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

The pickup tube, Pan, Tray, Lifters, Cam, Heads, Water Pump, push rods, rockers, and intake where all pulled from my LS1 block that got trashed due to a broken head bolt, lets just say i have learned my lesson about TTY bolts lol.

The LQ4 block showd signs of running, oil still in the whole motor, crank, heads, ect. so i know all plugs are in place. so what im thinking is either i cracked or did something to the pickup tube when installed into the 6.0. OR i just need to pull the OPSU and dump oil down there and threw the heads and try again lol

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

OK all plugs are in place, oil pickup ring is.good pump is new, still no oil to the filter or anywhere else, no pressure at the filter either. I'm so lost on this :/

ez2cdave

I'm learning a lot from this thread . . .

I was totally unaware about the need for shimming an LS oil pump. This thread has probably saved me a lot of frustration and, possibly, the new motor I'm preparing to build.

Your problem is really baffling, because the stock pump and the replacement pump are exhibiting the same problem, even though all of the pre-oiling and priming is being done.

I agree that it sounds like there is a "hole" somewhere . . . My "gut instinct" tells me that there is a cracked weld in the pickup tube that is allowing air to enter, causing the pump to be unable to draw oil from the sump even though the pump itself has been primed.

Just my thoughts . . . Good Luck !

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

any progress? im having similair problems with my 5.3 i just put a cam in, but im getting oil to the filter and in the tube to the mechanical gauge, just no pressure. going to pull the front apart and check o ring

Mista Blazer

iTrader: (4)

Haven't had time to work on it sadly, its just been sitting :/ I honestly am slowly losing hope.. I havmt drive the car in almost a year now. Got excited after swapping the motor and to fix my wiring issue and got it to fire up just to see no oil preasure.. I keep hearing main bearing issue but she starts up without any hesitation you can spin the crank by hand. I just can't see a bad main bearing not allowing oil to the filter...

When I get time I think I'm going to pull pump and poor oil down into the tube to see if it holds it. If it does I'm going to poor oil in the opsu hole and all threw the heads and try again. Think there is only 3-4qts in the pan

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

i swapped pumps last night to try and rule out the pump. i packed the pump with grease and it helped prime it right away i had oil moving almost instantly. still no pressure tho. i think im going to get a tsp ported ls6 pump. that truck pick up tube is a pia to seat. is it supposed to seat all the way up into the pump??? i would pry mine up into the pump but after i tighten the bolt it would slide back down an 1/8'' or so. same o ring as what i had before. i give up!

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

found a cool pick up tube idea on another thread thought id pass it on to ya, i ordered one, they are made to order takes about 3 days gets rid of the o ring, comes with a flange and a gasket! way better designhttp://schumannsdynamicperformance.c...d/131436/LSPST good luck!!!!

ez2cdave

I bet that is where air is entering the system and causing the pump not to build pressure !

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

The flange on the pickup has to be flush with the pump. If its not, thats where your getting air. But dont try and force it flush with the bolt, it will break off. Ask me how I know.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You didn't forget the cam retainer plate, did you?

strmachinist

Pulling the OPSU and pouring oil down there will do nothing to fill/prime the oil pump pick up tube. When I first tried the pre oiler I hooked it up to this port and it would not prime it. I had to go off the gallery on the front drivers side next to the oil pump and it still took quite a while for it to fill the pick up tube but once it did there was oil pressure with starter only. Sorry I have been away for awhile and was hoping I would log on today and see that you had this figured out! I still think you should find a preoiler and put pressure to it as I have described. And I do highly doubt it has anything to do with bearings or oil pump shimming. It has to be something to do with that pickup or oring. I have read where you arent even supposed to re-use the O-rings. I dont know what else to say other than spring is coming and the snowbanks are getting smaller! (Lol I am in Canada) I hope you get this figured out soon. I didnt believe the O-ring could/would cause the loss of oi pressure but I have seen it on line being the culprit more than once and now for me as well? Any way I sure hope to log on one of these days and see that you figured it out! What ever the culprit is. Good luck mista blazer and dont give up or let this get you down!!!!

strmachinist

I saw the same thing recently when I pulled the pan and changed the Oring on my L92 the pick up tube was not seating properly to the pump. I removed it and lubed it up and then it slid in with a lil tap. ANY amount of leakage at the Oring or on the pickup tube will prevent the pump from priming. But if you say it is moving oil out the filter location then that eliminates the oring or pickup and points to possible cam bearing instalation or cam bearings turning on cold dry start? I realize that you guys dont have the issues of starting a vehicle in -40 weather but you never know? Or an open gallery somewhere?

strmachinist

That was meant for 331camaro sorry not eastZ28

strmachinist

As I have mentioned I am a novice engine builder. But I have built quite a few engines in my life. When I was younger 20+ years ago I had an engine on the test stand that had O oil pressure. I was young and didnt do the checks that I would have done now but it came down to a missing plug behind the upper timing chain gear that hadnt been staked hard enough.? I again 15 years later came across another engine I built (embarresingly) that had the same gallery plug miissing this one put out 15 lbs oil pressure?? One of the reasons I doubted it was missing a gallery plug. I am sure the difference was oil pump volume/pressure. If the engine moves oil but doesnt make pressure there has to be a plug out some where like the two I had encountered earlier. But with these LS engines crank driven oil pumps and that long pick up tube it makes it a totally different animal to work on. A pre oiler is essential. Not like the old school chevys where you could take an old distributor and modify it to prelube the engine. This engine has to rotate in order for that pump to make pressure. From my recent adventure the engine after oil change should make oil pressure with spark plugs out no fuel within 5 x 4 second intravels on the starter. I dont recommend any one doing this unless necassary but I have Royal Purple assemly lube on every friction point in the engine not just the main bearings. The answer to my earlier question is yes these engines will prelube themselves without running, on the strater when everything is correct. And once the system is full the pump is supposed to friction lock with oil so it doesnt need to prime itself till next oil change??? Any one with oil pressure problems after changing oil should critic the o ring. A pre-oiler would be easily made by using an air tank and adding two valves off the drain side and gauge. Two valves work best like the one I borrowed from one of my customers that rebuilds engines his looked like you could put 1000+psi to it lol seriously over enginered. I wish I could put a pic up from this stupid phone but unfotunately still havent figured it out. One valve before the gauge on the bottom for tank pressure then one after the gauge to see what your engine is doing if it makes pressure you can shut either valve to read either sides pressure. Or lack of I like to fill the engine with 3 L of engine oil and add 2 to the pre oiler just so you dont over fill the engine. I always make a habbit of filling my oil filter before spinning it on even 7/8 full so not to make a mess. Sorry If I rambled? lol

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

i dont wanna hi jack mista blazer's thread, this is my first ls cam swap. i was gentile installing the cam, used the comp cams pro lube, so im going to say the cam bearings are fine. but with out taking it back apart to inspect the cam bearings its only a guess. oil pressure was good on this motor before i tore it down. bottom end was left alone, so the barbell in the back is still there and the plug up front is still in tact. i'm hoping its an o ring problem. those pick up tubes are made to order, hopefully next weekend ill get it back together and fired up.

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

Swapped pick up tubes, packed the pump with vasoline, had 30lbs in about 5 seconds!!!! i guess i suck at seating pick up tubes with o rings lol thank god for the aftermarket co.