LS 3 takeout rods
#1
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I just p/u a set of LS3 takeouts from another TECH member and they look
fantastic. Supposedly purchased from Katech and obviously very low miles as
the big end sides show minimal wear and the small end bushings seem
perfect.
I picked up some new DNJ pistons and decided to check the wrist pin
clearances. The pistons are on the tight side (.0003-.00035) clearance and
will need a quick pin hone to open them up to what I prefer...about .0008-
.0011 range.
The pins feel loose in the rod bushings...I'll measure them tomorrow at the
machine shop..but I'm suspecting they are at .0015-.0018 range now. Again
the bushings look perfect and I can see that they have what looks like 2
oiling troughs at roughly 4 O'clock and 8 O'clock.
Question is...does anybody have any first hand knowledge of whether this
might be an issue going forward? or does GM make these loose from the get go since the oiling troughs help to prevent galling under loads.
FWIW I've read where Reher and Morrison have run pin clearances as loose
as .002, however my engine is not exactly a 10,500 rpm 3hp/cube beast.LOL
fantastic. Supposedly purchased from Katech and obviously very low miles as
the big end sides show minimal wear and the small end bushings seem
perfect.
I picked up some new DNJ pistons and decided to check the wrist pin
clearances. The pistons are on the tight side (.0003-.00035) clearance and
will need a quick pin hone to open them up to what I prefer...about .0008-
.0011 range.
The pins feel loose in the rod bushings...I'll measure them tomorrow at the
machine shop..but I'm suspecting they are at .0015-.0018 range now. Again
the bushings look perfect and I can see that they have what looks like 2
oiling troughs at roughly 4 O'clock and 8 O'clock.
Question is...does anybody have any first hand knowledge of whether this
might be an issue going forward? or does GM make these loose from the get go since the oiling troughs help to prevent galling under loads.
FWIW I've read where Reher and Morrison have run pin clearances as loose
as .002, however my engine is not exactly a 10,500 rpm 3hp/cube beast.LOL
#5
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is gonna check availability of replacement bushings and then give me a price
with labor qoute. If it's another $150 bucks total or so I'll probably have to
just suck it up and make them right as I'm not about to sell this known
issue to someone else at this point.
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well now that I'm officially buried in these F-ing things I might as well jump
on these before they're gone..............![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
http://store.katechengines.com/conne...bolts-p25.aspx
Any tips on using these.....they seem like a simple install w/lube and torque
Could anything really be that plug and play ????
on these before they're gone..............
![The Patriot !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_patriot.gif)
http://store.katechengines.com/conne...bolts-p25.aspx
Any tips on using these.....they seem like a simple install w/lube and torque
Could anything really be that plug and play ????
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#8
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new DNJ pins were goofy or something...but the pin clearance on the old
truck rods was like .0005" or so; similar to yours.
My new pistons are at .0004"; so they'll get another .0006-.0007 hone and
be right on.
Now I'm obviously thinking that the same application that ovaled the
bushings also wreaked havoc on the rod bolts..so Katech it is. By the time
I'm done making them nice again I'll have spent 500-550 bucks but I still
really like the PM design and they'll hold up fine since it will never see juice
or anything over 7 grand rpms.
Any idea what the two flange thicknesses are with the early 6.0 cranks ???
My machinist has a Std/Std LQ4 crank that had floating rods/pistons with so
I assume it must be late 03-newer but the flange measured about .875"ish
thick. I'll have to ask him for the casting number to check...it did have the
24X reluctor ring already....just curious is this would work for my mutt LS2
build.