Generation IV Internal Engine 2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9

What diameter pushrod do I need?

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Old May 14, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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Default What diameter pushrod do I need?

Planning on a cam change this summer and trying to decide what diameter pushrods and/or wall thickness pushrods I need. Engine is an L99 converted to an LS3 in a 2011 Camaro. Present pushrods are SAE 4130 ChromeMoly Steel at 5/16" dia x 0.080" wall. New cam may, if I'm lucky, add 70 FT-LB of torque and 30 RWHP. It has been suggested that I change the pushrods to either 3/8" dia x 0.080" wall or 5/16" dia x 0.105" wall.

My napkin math doesn't support needing to change pushrods, and this is based on what info I can find on the mechanical properties of the OEM pushrods vs: the SAE 4130 pushrods. Best I can find the OEM rods are made from SAE 1010 steel and have a wall thickness of 0.06x". Based on the yield strengths of the two alloys, the 4130 is twice that of the 1010, and the wall thickness is at least 30% greater. Scribbling this all down leads me to believe the 5/16" dia x 0.080" wall rods are over twice as strong as the OEM rods, or good for at least 852 Crank HP. Since I'll be nowhere near that I see no reason to change pushrods again.

What say you experts?
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Old May 14, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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How do you figure that your 5/16" .080" wall pushrods are good for 852hp?

In my opinion, if you have 5/16" .080" wall 4130 grade pushrods in a naturally aspirated LS engine making 850hp, you should make about 900hp if you upgraded to 3/8" or even 7/16" pushrods.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Sure. 852 out of a N/A build. If you put the money into building an 850 CHP motor, upgrading pushrods is a drop in the bucket.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 04:17 PM
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Biggest dia thickest wall that will fit.

Call Manton and see what they say

Tim
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Old May 14, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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You guys don't understand the question. The LS3 from the factory makes 426 HP with OEM pushrods, therefore pushrods that are twice as strong should be theoretically string enough to handle 2 x 426 = 852 HP. My NA motor will never make anywhere near that, which is what I said in my OP. I simply want to know if my bar napkin math makes sense and if the 5/16" x 0.080" wall pushrods are strong enough for a NA LS3 build. Either my writing skills, or your reading comprehension skills, need help.

And to Tim, bigger is not always better in the mechanical and engineering world. And why would I want to spend money for pushrods, if my present pushrods are adequate?

Last edited by jeffbrown13; May 14, 2014 at 05:03 PM.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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Call Manton ......

Weight is not something to be concerned with a pogo stick will kill parts and hurt power

napkin math will get you in trouble in the real world

Tim
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Old May 14, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffbrown13
You guys don't understand the question. The LS3 from the factory makes 426 HP with OEM pushrods, therefore pushrods that are twice as strong should be theoretically string enough to handle 2 x 426 = 852 HP.
Oh wow. You have a lot to learn.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Oh wow. You have a lot to learn.
No kidding, I'm sure you do too in certain disciplines. I thought the purpose of this forum was to help those of us that don't have the answers obtain them. I'm 69 years old and don't give a rat's patoot what you think KCS. If you don't want to help me obtain an answer to my question, or have anything constructive to add, then shut up. Maybe you think it's just a place for know-it-alls like you to pat each other on their backs.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffbrown13
No kidding, I'm sure you do too in certain disciplines. I thought the purpose of this forum was to help those of us that don't have the answers obtain them. I'm 69 years old and don't give a rat's patoot what you think KCS. If you don't want to help me obtain an answer to my question, or have anything constructive to add, then shut up. Maybe you think it's just a place for know-it-alls like you to pat each other on their backs.
Well, I did want to help you but not anymore. You're obviously very sensitive to comments and criticisms.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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I think the guys are trying to tell you pushrod requirements are based on spring rates and cam lobe profiles. HP potential has nothing to do with it...
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Old May 14, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I think the guys are trying to tell you pushrod requirements are based on spring rates and cam lobe profiles. HP potential has nothing to do with it...
Then they should have said that. I never insinuated that they have anything to do with HP potential. I was simply using that as an example of the strength of the stock pushrods vs: the pushrods that are now in the car. The yied strength of SAE 1010 steel is 26.1 Kips and the yield strength of SAE 4130 steel is 66.7 Kips, which is a strength ratio of 2.55:1. Additionally, from the info I've been able to dig up, the thickness of the stock pushrods are 0.066" and the present pushrods are 0.080" thick, or a thickness ratio of 1.21:1. You combine the two ratios and get a total strength ratio of 3.08:1, which means, based on a linear relationship, my present pushrods are 3.08 times as strong as the stock pushrods. I used 2:1 in case the relationship wasn't linear. Of course, if the relationship is exponential or logarithmic then all bets are off. I was just trying find out if an SAE 4130 ChromeMoly 5/16" x 0.080" wall was strong enough for a stock displacement, NA, LS3 motor, that may, if I'm extremely lucky, develop 625 - 630 crank HP. I could have simply said that, but then I would have gotten just a yes or no answer, and not really learned whether my logic was worth a pile of horse dung or not.

I don't mind constructive criticism, but that is not what KCS gave me. He gave me smart ***, schoolyard bully comments, and after that I really wouldn't value his opinion anymore than I would a 12 year old.
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