2010 ly6 couple of questions
#1
2010 ly6 couple of questions
ok so im putting motor together after cam /spring swap .do i need to prime oil pump? i just reinstalled but im wondering if it needs to be primed and what i can do about it at this point .short block is complete but i can remove oil pan if needed also will ly6 valve covers work with ls3 intake and valley cover? wondering about pcv routing. first ls build also i used o ring i got with holley 302-2 pan ok? or should i put new gm thanks
#2
TECH Fanatic
Is it on an engine stand?
If so, flip it over, remove the pan and pick-up tube, and squirt some assembly lube into the pump's port. Turn the crank by hand to work it into the gears. That should do the trick to get good oil flow once the motor is installed in the car and you can flow oil with the starter.
If it is already installed in the car, there is a plug on the front driver's side of the block that you can pull out and pump some oil into. That will also get the suction needed to get oil flowing properly with the starter method.
If so, flip it over, remove the pan and pick-up tube, and squirt some assembly lube into the pump's port. Turn the crank by hand to work it into the gears. That should do the trick to get good oil flow once the motor is installed in the car and you can flow oil with the starter.
If it is already installed in the car, there is a plug on the front driver's side of the block that you can pull out and pump some oil into. That will also get the suction needed to get oil flowing properly with the starter method.
#3
thank you i followed the instructions for cam swap .it said nothing about filling oil pump. up but since it is still on stand should be easy . it wont be going in for a month or so.
#5
Try a search. Do it right. I would NEVER try it MuhThugga's way.
#6
Ok so I will build a pre oiler I just need to get an empty refrigerant tank and fig out the fittings. The Melling one is on e bay for 200 but I should be able to build pretty easy
#7
Dont bother with that. I bought the ENGINEQUEST version one and it sucked. Mellings is basiclly the same except they added a dipstick.
Build the buck one like CARCRAFT did. The old I built with all new parts cost less than $60. I used a small bucket with a HI VOL sbc oilpump bolted to the bottom of the cover. Drill and tap the pump output port for a pipethread andhook up required lines. The easiest spot to hook it up to on the engine without buying odd fittings and leaking ALOT of oil when removing (and introducing air into the system) is the sensor at the back of the intake valley cover. The other ports tend to dump alot of oil out the pickup IMO.
Be sure to keep the bucketsuppied with oil and make sure you get stedy oil out of all the rockers. You will have to turn the crank perioicly so all the rockers get oil. Be patient, this will take a while. I always had to drain the oilpan a few3 times to keep enough oil in the bucket.
Goodluck.
Build the buck one like CARCRAFT did. The old I built with all new parts cost less than $60. I used a small bucket with a HI VOL sbc oilpump bolted to the bottom of the cover. Drill and tap the pump output port for a pipethread andhook up required lines. The easiest spot to hook it up to on the engine without buying odd fittings and leaking ALOT of oil when removing (and introducing air into the system) is the sensor at the back of the intake valley cover. The other ports tend to dump alot of oil out the pickup IMO.
Be sure to keep the bucketsuppied with oil and make sure you get stedy oil out of all the rockers. You will have to turn the crank perioicly so all the rockers get oil. Be patient, this will take a while. I always had to drain the oilpan a few3 times to keep enough oil in the bucket.
Goodluck.
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#8
TECH Fanatic