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What are the differences between the Pre 04 and 04+ LQ9

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Old 11-15-2014, 02:07 PM
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Default What are the differences between the Pre 04 and 04+ LQ9

I remember everyone saying to get the Pre 04 LQx motors, but don't the 04+ have the better rods and pins?

Why the Pre 04 and what are the differences between the two, on the LQ9?
Old 11-15-2014, 02:11 PM
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It mostly depends on the vehicle you are planning on installing it in. What are your plans for the 6.0?
Old 11-15-2014, 02:29 PM
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It's going into my WS6, but I don't understand why the car has anything to do with my question about the differences about the years
Old 11-15-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
It's going into my WS6, but I don't understand why the car has anything to do with my question about the differences about the years
It has to do with the ECM and sensor placement. The 04+ will most likely have a 58x wheel instead of a 24x on the crank, the knock sensors will be on the side of the block rather than in the valley on top, and the cam sensor will the in the front cover rather than the top rear of the block. An older block would make the swap less complicated and expensive.

There are other differences, which have been well documented on LS1tech and throughout the internet, but those are the main ones that will need attention in an Fbody.
Old 11-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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Yeah I tried finding the info, but as you can imagine, EVERYTHING comes up LQx, when searching.

Di you think the floating pins are worth the aggravation of getting a new block, thus dealing with all the other delete/swap issue, like the 58x to 24x wheel?
Old 11-15-2014, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
Yeah I tried finding the info, but as you can imagine, EVERYTHING comes up LQx, when searching.

Di you think the floating pins are worth the aggravation of getting a new block, thus dealing with all the other delete/swap issue, like the 58x to 24x wheel?
As Im sure youve seen, theres plenty of pre 04 6.0s running **** tons of boost on the stock shortblock. It would make the swap less complicated, however if you were going to buy different rods and pistons then you could have the floaters in a pre 04 6.0 and have no worries.

If you buy a post 04 6.0, you will need:
A. the 58x-24x converter box, ive heard of a few problems but im not quite sure on them, thats your choice!

OR

2. A different cam/cam gear/timing set, as you need one for the 1x timing and the post 04 6.0s all had the 1 bolt cam core and 4x cam timing, and potentially vvt or Dod.

Also, the cranksahft/ reluctor wheel needs to be changed from a 58x gear to a 24x gear, the good billet 24x 1 piece gear is around $150 and the tool to locate the gear properly is around $200, although i think i would try and make my own tool first.


In addition to either of the above, you will need a cam sensor extension harness, and knock sensor extension harnesses. they make an adapter harness so you can use the stock 2nd gen style knock sensors with an ls1, but i cant put the link in due to the me misplacing it and/or questioning if they are a sponsor of this site.


SOOOO all in all, if your head feels like this:
you may want to buy a pre 04 6.0.

Also, it would be cheaper imo to buy an older motor and throw in new rods and pistons that is an easy drop in vs a more complicated swap and a more expensive initial engine purchase.
Just my $.02, good luck!!!
Old 11-15-2014, 04:22 PM
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Awesome info! Thanks!

I just got word from the seller that the motor is a Pre 04 so it looks as if the 58x ans such, will not be an issue.

I was looking at a LY6, for $1800, but from what I understand now, is the LY6 has LQ4 type pistons and I was really wanting to stay with the higher CR. What's more, I can get the LQ9 for much less ($1000), buy a set of L92 heads and LS3 intake and be in the black, over the cost of the LY6, once the vvt delete, sensor and 58x/24x swap was done.

BUT.... the LY6 did only have 5xx miles on it, lol...
Old 11-15-2014, 04:37 PM
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Buy an early 05 or 04, they will have the floating rods, a 24x reluctor, and the knock sensors in the valley. GM didn't switch to a 58x until late 05 (Sep or Aug iirc). 3 bolt cam core, etc. will be the same minus a bolt hole for accessories I believe when switching from your LS1.

For the record, I have heard people who have said that some of the early 04's didn't have the floating rods and have also seen late 03's that did. I personally have not seen an 04 that didn't have the floating rods, perhaps a late run of early LQ4 engines made it into some trucks/suvs and not others. I would pop the pan and check the bottom end to verify.
Old 11-15-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
Awesome info! Thanks!

I just got word from the seller that the motor is a Pre 04 so it looks as if the 58x ans such, will not be an issue.

I was looking at a LY6, for $1800, but from what I understand now, is the LY6 has LQ4 type pistons and I was really wanting to stay with the higher CR. What's more, I can get the LQ9 for much less ($1000), buy a set of L92 heads and LS3 intake and be in the black, over the cost of the LY6, once the vvt delete, sensor and 58x/24x swap was done.

BUT.... the LY6 did only have 5xx miles on it, lol...
Figure out what you want to do first and let that help dictate where you go. We swapped pistons on the LQ4 for a budget flat top, decked the block and milled the heads. Had to measure compression height before decking and milling but ended up with .033 quench with a .040 gasket, compression was 10.8:1 I believe. Search BigDaddy0381 on here or PerformanceTrucks. He's got pics and videos as it's using Martin's cam. Made good power.

FYI, there is a .002 difference in pin diameter iirc .943 vs .945 between the LS2 and non floaters, so make sure you either order the correct pistons for the rods or do like we did and have them honed and go back to pressfit with the LS2. Really it's just a beefier rod, never had a problem with a galling when assembled correctly so the floating vs pressfit is a wash imho unless you're looking for every little bit of power.
Old 11-15-2014, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
Yeah I tried finding the info, but as you can imagine, EVERYTHING comes up LQx, when searching.

Di you think the floating pins are worth the aggravation of getting a new block, thus dealing with all the other delete/swap issue, like the 58x to 24x wheel?
It depends what you're wanting to do with it, but for most people, it's not. I used the floating pin rods in my Gen III block for my TA only because I was rebuilding the engine anyways.
Old 11-16-2014, 02:23 PM
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All engines that came out of the GMT8xx trucks (99-early 07) are gen III irrespective of floating or pressed pins.
Old 11-16-2014, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for all the KILLER info guys!!!
Old 11-16-2014, 03:46 PM
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BTW, just got word that I might be hooking up with a killer deal, for a 2012 L92. Are there any issue there, save for the 58x and the VVT delete?

As always guys, much thanks!
Old 11-17-2014, 12:07 AM
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Should have to do the Dod/vvt delete, and the respective cam/timing gear/reluctor wheel swapping
Old 11-17-2014, 10:46 AM
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Head bolts are different too.



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