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Maintenance involved going solid roller?

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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:01 PM
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Default Maintenance involved going solid roller?

Just wondering what the real world valve lash adjustment intervals are with the newer solid roller lifters. I've never used them in an LS and would like some real world experiences. Trying to figure out if a solid roller setup could be a realistic option on a motor that needs to run for hours on the highway as well as raced. I don't mind spending money for quality, just don't want to end up with a motor that falls apart if run from state to state. Obviously I'm not trying to run a .7xx lift cam, probably something in the low .6xx range. Don't mind adjustments, ran solids in my daily driver's for years. Are the current solid rollers from Johnson, Comp, etc... able to survive daily driver duty?
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:05 PM
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In for answers, revving to 7-8k sounds nice.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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Checking springs pressure when recommended and checking the lash every so often, my mechanic checks mine about 600-700 miles as long as I don't go revving the engine to the moon it's all good.
E-Z roller lifters would be best for what your looking for. Very similar to what I wanted with my 408 just with 750 lift and around 7400 rpm max. I'm all about the engine being really street friendly. Need to hook up the A/c on mine. To cold right now.

Martin @ Tick can set you up. Custom to your build.

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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Really a hyd roller is what you need. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lil john
Really a hyd roller is what you need. Just my 2 cents.
You are correct, was just trying to justify going solid for the peace of mind after seeing a bunch of hyd rollers coming apart and wiping out motors. I build cars for a living and set valve lash on a regular basis, was hoping that the maintenance was the only pitfall. I really don't need to rev to 8k, I don't try to compete with the big boys. I just want a valvetrain that I can trust. Any suggestions on a hyd roller that is reliable? I'll spend money for reliability. Basic requirements: 7-7500 max rpm, little to no float and the ability to run at 2500-3500 for 2-3 hours at a time. Will be spec'ing a spring friendly lobe cam, high .5xx to low .6xx lift, 22x-23x duration, leave the rest to the experts. Power, drive ability and reliability are my concerns, tuning, money isn't a problem(within reason, I'm not a baller). Thanks for the advise
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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You can do it cheap, with the right parts are the key.
Decide on budget & what size engine also what type of time you would like, Tim ran 9"s N/a with a properly set up factory CNC ported ls3 headed 418 with a hyd roller. Goes by 87 hatchback.
Say a number as far as engine size and HP # we can give you a ballpark figure.
Try out the lifter I ask 4 2 yrs ago E/Z roller hyd lifters NO needle bearings I would have done a hyd. Roller had this lifter been out. Cost a grand for either lifter hyd. Or solid. I killed them on my comp cams stud mount adjustable 1:8 roller rocker for $499. The lifter price was a wash vs shaft mount rockers.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 28, 2014 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by GSAWYERS
Just wondering what the real world valve lash adjustment intervals are with the newer solid roller lifters. I've never used them in an LS and would like some real world experiences. Trying to figure out if a solid roller setup could be a realistic option on a motor that needs to run for hours on the highway as well as raced. I don't mind spending money for quality, just don't want to end up with a motor that falls apart if run from state to state. Obviously I'm not trying to run a .7xx lift cam, probably something in the low .6xx range. Don't mind adjustments, ran solids in my daily driver's for years. Are the current solid rollers from Johnson, Comp, etc... able to survive daily driver duty?
One of my employees has a 351W Ford.He installed one of our LowLash Solid Rollers 7 years ago. He has 15,000 miles on it. He has not pulled the valve covers off one time. I have a C6 with a Solid roller its a daily driver with 5000 miles its quiter than most Hyd cams. I have Morel Solids with stock lifter trays. I will need to change springs before I need a valve adjustment. Give me a call I can you more information.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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Lil john, you like those ls3 heads don't you, I hope I like my 408 ls3 headed motor. Op you don't have to do solid lift for reliability good hydraulic set up work fine for what you're looking for just use good parts. I've driven a solid lift 6.0 for about 8 years ( 8, 000 ) miles with no problems except valve adjustments. I'm building 2 motors, 1 is stated above and the other a solid lift ( if I ever get my intake and heads back )
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Yes I love those heads they cost me 175. Each. Chris Frank ported them 4 $1100 and Martin made the cam, my goal was 700 without compromise and dirt cheap. Never dyno'ed but everthing is on Par.



Cam Motion also can do what ever you like as far as the cam goes.
Budget / engine Size / Hp / = cam size and et's. @ the track
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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I can see why, with I knew about chris frank before I sent my ls1 heads out 4 months now and counting.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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I'm sorry to hear that, mine were a 5 day turn around. I purchased valves, springs,retainers etc.... and my guy set them up.

I'm now wanting more cubic inch and HP for cheap having to switch brands is a bummer. Over 3k difference in a lsx vs ford build: block prices dart 9.5 deck ht. $1800 vs lsx tall deck $2700 and the better head/intake combo as well, mast intakes go for $1500 and the mozez heads run 5 grand bare. Elderbrock SC1 intake is $400 and the canted heads I want run $3200
My girlfriend said only over a five yr period for this build 468 idea on pump gas I will be asking a lot of this one 850+hp. With 7500-8000rpm( hopefully @7500) for less than 10k in hard parts or $2000 a yr on parts. Would love to work this out with a new 8 speed automatic.
Remember all engine's are the same.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 28, 2014 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Thank you all for the information, if has been helpful. I will be in touch after the new year Mr. Fabre. The low lash solid roller sounds like what I've been looking for. Thanks again.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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Martin did a mild solid roller for my car. no miles on It yet. But it's quieter valve train wise than a lot of hydraulics. .700+ lift

Morel lifters
Jesel rockers.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by blackonblacksls
Martin did a mild solid roller for my car. no miles on It yet. But it's quieter valve train wise than a lot of hydraulics. .700+ lift

Morel lifters
Jesel rockers.
Good to hear that David. Those lobes should work very well for your intended purposes.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 01:31 PM
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More choices, exactly what I need.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Just give one of these guys a call and see what they would recommend, the ***** in you court then. So What's the verdict.? If you have the motor already or idea of what type of build your going with, put Up a time equivalent of the build or car your using. Another way to say it is what type of power do you want and how much do U Really drive the car because @ WOT something's won't last long going up and down the Hwy.
More than likely hyd roller will be best.
How much power do you want, or what et is needed. Car that's being used would help also.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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The car is an 05 GTO M6, got a couple hundred pounds taken out, more coming out this spring. I plan on using the stock bottom(may change pistons, rings and add better rod bolts) for now, heads are up in the air still, as is the intake. My goal is good all around power, has to be able to survive 3 hrs at 85-100mph (2100-2500rpm) twice a week. I go to open track days occasionally and like to pull big speed occasionally. I don't want to get too crazy with this car as I'm saving up for a C6 Z06.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 11:17 PM
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I'm with you, cam / intake-head porting will produce the most bang 4 the buck. Budget is the main factor, a cam change with out helping the top-end is questionable. They have some good stock bottom end cars out there but head/intake modd's with cam change is what's wanted. Think of it like 2 different lungs both are sprinter's, but one smokes and the other does not. I can understand not wanting to break the bank will trying to save for a better car and engine combo.
Try this: ported stock heads. $700-1000
Peak performance 102mm ls2 intake. $489 with exchange
Hyd roller Cam/springs. $425/ ???
Simple yet effective sure of 400 rwhp if not more.


On vacation, nothing but Rerun's on cable TV.

Last edited by lil john; Dec 29, 2014 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 12:24 AM
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Default Cam on ...

I'm a solid roller guy have my cams design by software with mild ramps make power hydraulics only dream of and will like to adjust valves a lot more often than I have to. Camhelp@guerragroup.com happy new year, cheer's David.
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Old Dec 31, 2014 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lil john
I'm with you, cam / intake-head porting will produce the most bang 4 the buck. Budget is the main factor, a cam change with out helping the top-end is questionable. They have some good stock bottom end cars out there but head/intake modd's with cam change is what's wanted. Think of it like 2 different lungs both are sprinter's, but one smokes and the other does not. I can understand not wanting to break the bank will trying to save for a better car and engine combo.
Try this: ported stock heads. $700-1000
Peak performance 102mm ls2 intake. $489 with exchange
Hyd roller Cam/springs. $425/ ???
Simple yet effective sure of 400 rwhp if not more.


On vacation, nothing but Rerun's on cable TV.
I'm already past 400rwhp with just bolt ons and good tuning. I've resisted changing the cam because of problems I've seen with lifters coming apart. When the cam comes out the heads are either being replaced or ported by me. The intake is already ported, it's not an issue. I don't mind spending money on quality parts, what I'm after is a reliable, broad powerband motor. Peak numbers are impressive but I can spray if I need to. What I'm looking for information on the benefits and pitfalls of a solid roller LS. I'm not building a max effort car, just a solid performer. Most of the information available on solid roller cams is about power and not reliability or durability.
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