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Stock LS3/L99 rod bolt failure?

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Old 01-09-2015, 12:21 AM
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Question Stock LS3/L99 rod bolt failure?

I'm building (more like assembling) an L99 with the intent to boost it to 700ish whp. Stock crank, rod, piston. I have several very wise engine building friends, and we all talk about past current and upcoming builds. What works, what doesn't, and what's a waste of money on a "budget build". All discussion is backed mostly with first person experience. Now, with that said none of us have first person experience building an aluminum gen IV block.

I, like any one should, do my research to help compile my build sheet. This is where some of our experience and the internet start to collide. We've always replaced the rod bolts with ARP upgrades, but I can't find a single article or post that shows a LS3 rod bolt as the failure on a build. It looks like a few oiling issues that might have led to a spun bearing, but that wasn't even confirmed. I'm hoping for a little more direct insight on this matter. I'm almost certainly going to ARP all the things (rod, main, head) unless those in the know on here can show me that it's a waste of money (please do). The peace of mind is nice, and it usually equates to less than $800 including the bearings and the machine shop fees. Buuuut That $800 why I'm asking; I see that as a shiny new S475 delivered to my door.
Please share your knowledge oh wise ones.
Thank you!

Last edited by B_dub; 01-09-2015 at 12:45 PM.
Old 01-09-2015, 05:47 PM
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Default Do it!

I built one and posted on here the results (stock L92 bottom end).. Final disassembly isn't done but it looks like a stock rod bolt let go, total loss, ported heads and the entire bottom end.
Old 01-10-2015, 02:05 PM
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My son's LS1 with a only a cam, CNC'd heads and stock bottom end had a stock rod bolt fail and holed the block in an off-road race. Built new motor and put ARP rod bolts in stock rods, stock crank and forged pistons. Has about 6000 race miles and still going strong.



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