6togo

iTrader: (13)

I started test fitting things today and let me tell you the common spring compressor does not work on Mast heads i had to make something work with the tool but it moved on the retainers a bit scratching the surface a bit!
Once i removed a spring and installed the test spring i sit the rail in place and tightened it with two bolts on the arm i was working with then i used my pushrod tool which is a pain because you cant get your fingers in there to adjust it out so on and off with the rocker until there was not play. Then i marked the stem with the PR tool in place i bolted the rocker on and turned the engine over by hand a few times to check the wipe pattern.
T&D said to turn the arm adjuster stud until it bottoms up inside the cup then turn it down one full turn so i did that first!
It was favoring the intake side a bit so i added some .038 shims under the stand reajusted the PR tool and try'd again i think it's fairly centered and fairly narrow wipe here is a pic you tell me?
I did notice the pushrod tool which is 3/8 dia. is fairly close to the side of the hole in the head intake side worse than the exhaust side is that normal don't look like it touches but close!
I popped the rocker arm on a few other spots with the PR tool to see if they were the same it seems they may have had a slight bit of preload compared to the first one but very min. so i dont think that will be a issue .005 at most.
The most important question is this a correct way to do the shaft setup?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Narrowing the wipe is more important than centering it on the valve. It's okay to be a little offset if it narrows the sweep. With that said, what you have in the pic doesn't look too bad at all.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

Yea based on what I have seen I thought it looked decent and like I said once I added some shim it got it fairly centered on the stem.
I'm still a bit concerned about how close the push rods will be on the sides of the holes I kinda noticed the holes did not center over the lifter when I looked down at them and it's more intake then exhaust guess that's how they are I may drop to 11/32" rods to be sure I have some space.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

There's a couple of important factors to keep in mind when installing adjustable rocker arms:

Very important to keep the oil feed hole lined up for rocker arm lubrication so I run the adjuster all the way in then back it out two full turns, then see to make sure the lubrication hole still lines up, at this point you measure push rod length.

The other is knowing the two crankshaft positions in which all valves lash is set.

Hope this helps.

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

Did the rockers not come with a T-gauge?

6togo

iTrader: (13)

They did come with a gauge however i would have disassm. the rockers so i could use the shaft but i think that will just do the same as i have done to determine the wipe.
Camster can you tell me more about the crankshaft positions your talking about?
I did contact T&D and showed them the wipe pattern and told them how i got it and they said it looked fine for whatever thats worth!

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

You have to disassemble them to clean them before assembly anyway. I highly suggest using the T-gauge in order to get correct geometry.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

I did not read anything like that as a matter of fact it said don't clean them with any cleaners as it will wash out the special grease they pack them with.

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

When you get your block from the machine shop, or get your cylinder heads do you install them without washing? The instructions also says to use a T-gauge. Good luck.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

A Little different I'm sure the rockers are not shipped dirty like a machined block and yes I did install my brand new head without cleaning because they are brand new and clean!
Same rules don't apply your comparing apples to walnuts!

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

Sure -With the engine in number one firing position, tighten (set valve latch) to the flowing rocker arm bolts;

tighten exhaust rocker arm bolts 1-2-7 and 8
Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1-3-4 and 5

Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts;

Tighten exhaust rocker arm bolts 3-4-5 and 6
Tighten intake rocker arm bolts 2-6-7 and 8

Here is a little story, I use to race Small block Fords and I knew the secret to quick valve latch the small Fords in three steps and when I came to LS family I thought I would miss the secret I knew, well I quickly discovered the LS family is even easier to my total satisfaction, done in only two steps.

I made a crankshaft pointer and with a degree tape on the damper I got a say I enjoy valve latching more than having a frapushino at Starbucks or like the musician tuning his guitar for a very special song.

Hope this helps greetings, David.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

Got this right from T&D =
Do not clean them.. we pack the bearing with grease but the most critical would be the roller tip. If they get cleaned or soaked you run a risk of the roller tip sticking. Just wipe them down and install.

He also said the way i did the wipe pattern is another way to do it besides using the gauge but keeping the wipe in the center of the valve is most important and during its lifting cycle it will move from the intake side to just past the exhaust side at half lift then back to the starting spot at full lift.

6togo

iTrader: (13)

I took the rockers apart to try the T gauge to see where that was sitting and with the stands on the head with no shims they are perfectly lined up on the intake and exhaust stems. My only question is the instructions say that T gauge is setup for .550 lift i'm at 640/630 and if i read right that means the stands need to be lowered half that distance.
I checked the wipe on both valves and they still look good with no shims so i'm a bit confused!

6togo

iTrader: (13)

Well it turns out the T height gauge was a .650 lift not .550 as the direction state so that is why it looked dead on. My issue now is the intake has a .065 wipe starting before center going past center then back which is a bit wide but fine i think however the exhaust starts before center goes to maybe center then back and the wipe is around .040 also the exhaust side seems to have a shorter pushrod lenght by .010-.015 I came up with 7.932 on the intake rods zero lash one turn down on the rocker adjuster as directed on both rockers. Being i have some movement on the adjuster i may see if that does anything to the wipe i guess i may have to fine tune both sides differently!