arp main instillation
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arp main instillation
Hi guys have A 5.3l aluminum block it was line honed balenced rotating assy forged piston rods my question is with the main caps installed are the inners studs supposed to show thread? My #5 cap does but the rest do not i used arp lube on all studs into the block an outside on washers an bottom of nuts as description in my books say
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wrong studs.
Why would you lube the stud on the block side? I'm so confused about what you're doing. Have you ever done this before? (I'm guessing no)
Everything should be bottomed out in the block before nuts go on - but the block should have been line honed AFTER the arp studs were added, not before - and the machine shop would (should) have known if they were the wrong studs. Did you have it honed on factory studs?
Why would you lube the stud on the block side? I'm so confused about what you're doing. Have you ever done this before? (I'm guessing no)
Everything should be bottomed out in the block before nuts go on - but the block should have been line honed AFTER the arp studs were added, not before - and the machine shop would (should) have known if they were the wrong studs. Did you have it honed on factory studs?
Last edited by DietCoke; 06-04-2015 at 10:49 PM.
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They should (all) bottom out in the block and be flush in the middle. If they don't, they are the wrong studs. The line hone should be done after studs are added - not before, since it will change the shape of the cap. If the crank spins freely, you're probably good to go - but it won't be correct and will be out of round. Loosen all your nuts and tighten the studs to the block (no torque on them, however), then retorque the nuts. For future reference dont lube studs on the block side, you only lube a bolt - because you're keeping it from binding while it torques. A stud is already bottomed out before a clamping load is applied - thus you only lube the nut side.
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The line hone was done with the studs hence why the block was honed or the journal would probably be out of round, i will loosen them in the morning and bottom them out and go through the torque procedure again. crank spun smoothly when it was torqued down
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That's exactly what it was however the outers were so tight in the threads the allen key heads got stripped i had to remove all main caps and tighten the nut till it pretty much bound up on the stud the turn left and it would come out i believe i over stretched the studs when doing this so i will be buying a new set this pay day
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Ya i gotta stop burning the midnight oil in a low light storage unit. I used a stock main bolt to clean the entrance to the threads on 1or 2 holes the rest were fine hopefully next week ill have the crank torqued and be doing PR and trunion upgrade this month