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8k RPM possible with hyd roller?

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Old 02-23-2021, 12:53 PM
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Not relevant to the thread, but hey it's the internet, but i turn 7500+rpms w/ LS7 lifters, 5/16 pushrods, shimmed BTR springs and stock rockers w/ trunion upgrade.

Imagine my disappointment when I read on the internet that combination doesn't work...

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Old 02-23-2021, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Not relevant to the thread, but hey it's the internet, but i turn 7500+rpms w/ LS7 lifters, 5/16 pushrods, shimmed BTR springs and stock rockers w/ trunion upgrade.

Imagine my disappointment when I read on the internet that combination doesn't work...

Yeah, I'm sure that was a real letdown..... but hey, they're talking 8k+ RPM here, and that makes ALL the difference in the interweb world!! Doncha know....
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Old 02-23-2021, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Yeah, I'm sure that was a real letdown..... but hey, they're talking 8k+ RPM here, and that makes ALL the difference in the interweb world!! Doncha know....
I dont think i trust my stock rod bolts to 8k...
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Old 02-23-2021, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I dont think i trust my stock rod bolts to 8k...
I MIGHT if they were Gen IV....
Old 02-23-2021, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
I MIGHT if they were Gen IV....
Truth.
Old 02-23-2021, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
I MIGHT if they were Gen IV....
We heard you the first time!!
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Old 02-23-2021, 08:06 PM
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Extra post excised....
Old 02-23-2021, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
I MIGHT if they were Gen IV....
I know lots and lots of people will tell you they’ve seen boosted motors making 4 digits with SBE, rods etc. I’ll never attempt any thing with powdered metal rods again, I lost a real nice 347 made out of a Gen4 5.3 block at the SonomaRaceway using those gen 4 rods when I took that motor to 7100 and one let go at the parting line sheering both bolts destroyed that motor, the remainder of that rod also broke mid beam and exited the right side of the block spilling oil all over the track, it was a bad evening to say the least. Those rods have 8mm rod bolts, those are small and not made with the best metal. Since then I have used Scat I beams with 7/16” ARP bolts and locator dowels in simple builds, they’re lighter 605 and stronger vs 648gms of the GM rods. Speaking from experience here.
8mm is approximately 5/16” that is a small bolt diameter
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Old 02-24-2021, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 64post
I know lots and lots of people will tell you they’ve seen boosted motors making 4 digits with SBE, rods etc. I’ll never attempt any thing with powdered metal rods again, I lost a real nice 347 made out of a Gen4 5.3 block at the SonomaRaceway using those gen 4 rods when I took that motor to 7100 and one let go at the parting line sheering both bolts destroyed that motor, the remainder of that rod also broke mid beam and exited the right side of the block spilling oil all over the track, it was a bad evening to say the least. Those rods have 8mm rod bolts, those are small and not made with the best metal. Since then I have used Scat I beams with 7/16” ARP bolts and locator dowels in simple builds, they’re lighter 605 and stronger vs 648gms of the GM rods. Speaking from experience here.
8mm is approximately 5/16” that is a small bolt diameter
That's why I said MIGHT. I think those that get 8k RPM out of them while cranking out huge power have one pristine set of rods with good hardware. In other words, they're LUCKY!
I agree with you, if you want to spin it that tight, especially while getting 4 digit power, aftermarket is the one true path....
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Old 02-24-2021, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 64post
I know lots and lots of people will tell you they’ve seen boosted motors making 4 digits with SBE, rods etc. I’ll never attempt any thing with powdered metal rods again, I lost a real nice 347 made out of a Gen4 5.3 block at the SonomaRaceway using those gen 4 rods when I took that motor to 7100 and one let go at the parting line sheering both bolts destroyed that motor, the remainder of that rod also broke mid beam and exited the right side of the block spilling oil all over the track, it was a bad evening to say the least. Those rods have 8mm rod bolts, those are small and not made with the best metal. Since then I have used Scat I beams with 7/16” ARP bolts and locator dowels in simple builds, they’re lighter 605 and stronger vs 648gms of the GM rods. Speaking from experience here.
8mm is approximately 5/16” that is a small bolt diameter
First time I heard a clearly documented rod/bolt failure. Any idea how many times the factory rods/bolts were disassembled and retorqued?
Old 02-25-2021, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tblentrprz
First time I heard a clearly documented rod/bolt failure. Any idea how many times the factory rods/bolts were disassembled and retorqued?
No, I don’t. The rods were resized for slight oversized shells with STD. 2.100” bearings. I would recommend anyone using Gen4 rods if you must, to get ARP bolts at the very least or you could experience the same. For the cost of resizing the rods and buying aftermarket fasteners you can just buy the Scat or Eagle I beams and be a little better off for the reasons I’ve stated. Just my opinion.
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Old 02-25-2021, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 64post
I know lots and lots of people will tell you they’ve seen boosted motors making 4 digits with SBE, rods etc. I’ll never attempt any thing with powdered metal rods again, I lost a real nice 347 made out of a Gen4 5.3 block at the SonomaRaceway using those gen 4 rods when I took that motor to 7100 and one let go at the parting line sheering both bolts destroyed that motor, the remainder of that rod also broke mid beam and exited the right side of the block spilling oil all over the track, it was a bad evening to say the least. Those rods have 8mm rod bolts, those are small and not made with the best metal. Since then I have used Scat I beams with 7/16” ARP bolts and locator dowels in simple builds, they’re lighter 605 and stronger vs 648gms of the GM rods. Speaking from experience here.
8mm is approximately 5/16” that is a small bolt diameter
I really like those rods too, best bang for the buck out there IMO.
Old 02-25-2021, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
That's why I said MIGHT. I think those that get 8k RPM out of them while cranking out huge power have one pristine set of rods with good hardware. In other words, they're LUCKY!
I agree with you, if you want to spin it that tight, especially while getting 4 digit power, aftermarket is the one true path....
Truth!!! I totally agree. Without a LOT of supporting mods/aftermarket equipment, you're not going to see 8k too many times. Eventually, there will be too much red on the wrong side of the Tach needle....
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 64post
No, I don’t. The rods were resized for slight oversized shells with STD. 2.100” bearings. I would recommend anyone using Gen4 rods if you must, to get ARP bolts at the very least or you could experience the same. For the cost of resizing the rods and buying aftermarket fasteners you can just buy the Scat or Eagle I beams and be a little better off for the reasons I’ve stated. Just my opinion.
Any idea how far from stock the bolts were stretched. Being a tty bolt, I suspect that it was significantly stretched therefore weakened promoting failure.
Old 02-25-2021, 08:20 PM
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I used to spin my 4.8 76-7700. Dual springs good pushrods sbe ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old 02-25-2021, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tblentrprz
Any idea how far from stock the bolts were stretched. Being a tty bolt, I suspect that it was significantly stretched therefore weakened promoting failure.
Your probably right on that, no stretch gauge used. Just incorrectly assumed if it’s torqued up right it’s good to go. Never do that again.
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:24 PM
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If you don’t rev to at least 8000 do you even lift
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