I'm not sure if this is the correct location for this thread, if not, feel free to move it... please don't delete.

With that said, here's the deal, I've tinkered around with cars for quite some time now but it's never been anything other than your basic bolt-ons; heads, intake, exhaust, cam swap etc. I've never really wanted to put much money into a car, until now...

I finally bought my dream car, 1967 Chevelle.

I don't mind spending the coin on this one, whether it be 30, 40 or 50k+
I know "roundabout" what I'm wanting but I need help with the finer deatils. So...

I know I want a Twin Turbo LSX 396 (E85) with a Powerglide and Moser M9. I want to be able to drive to and from the track or anywhere else I want and run in the 7.50 range (or faster, 6.xx would be nice) at the track.
I've got the car at the bodyshop now getting some work done and it'll be getting a backhalf just as soon as I get my wheels and tires; 15x15 with a ??? 33x16 ??? Not exactly sure what tire size to go with... Not sure which gears either but I do want to run a big tire.

I want to get all the body/chassis work done before I start on the motor or anything else (obviously)

On the motor end of the deal, to get my 396, I don't know what would be better, 4.020 with a 3.90 stroke or 4.100 with a 3.75 stroke???
Would Twin 76s get me there or would 88s be better?

I'm sure I'll come up with 100 more questions but at the moment I'd like to know which wheel/tire combo I'm looking at.

Thanks for the help fellas!

 

4.020" bore x 3.90" stroke would probably be easier to do. Custom cranks are a lot more expensive than custom pistons. The 3.9" crank is a shelf size from Lunati and Manley I believe. You would be limited in shelf piston options, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Since its a power adder setup, you could just run a piston meant for a 4" stroke. The piston will end up in the hole about .050" but it doesn't really matter with boost.

 

Callies Mangum Crank comes in a 3.75 for a little over $1600, can probably find it a bit cheaper through a dealer.

 

Hmm, interesting. Hadn't seen that. I guess with a 6.200" rod and a 1.115" CH piston (like a Wiseco K395X100) you're still about .050" in the hole. I could see that running pretty well.

 

I know K1 makes a 3.900" crank. The only shelf piston for that stroke that I have found is made by JE.

 

Any other input?

 

I'm hoping to order my Dart LS Next Block within the next month or so but I'm still unsure which bore x stroke would be the better way to go on this...
I'd like to start ordering parts before long so I could really use some professional input.

I was playing around with some numbers and also came up with 4.185 x 3.600.
I believe Callies has a 3.600 Crank in the Magnum as well, I'd prefer this route so I could use a big bore head such as the Mozez or Brodix BR7.

 

Bump!

 

Fancy iron block or not, I would still try leave as much cylinder wall as possible in a boosted motor. Probably wouldn't push it all the way out to 4.185", if it were me, at least.

I would use the 4.1" bore and the 3.75" stroke with 6.25" rods... puts the 1.115" piston right at zero deck.

Probably would go with the twin 88's, personally, to mitigate back pressure.

It probably doesn't matter with the turbos, but I don't think 396ci is enough displacement to warrant an ls7 head, and would probably use a nice aftermarket cathedral port head, like the MMS235 or TFS245 with a Lingenfelter air to water intercooler intake hooked up to the A/C.

 

Yeah that's kinda what I'm unsure of.
The guy that will be building my engine was telling me about a 400ci that he built, it's using the br7 Brodix Heads and a single 88mm making 2400 on meth.

 

I am looking to build pretty much the same thing. Only I am not going to boost mine, I am just wanting a reliable big inch motor. Can I run stock rods with this set up? I know they say stock rods can go up to around 500Hp.

 

Stock rods will be fine at that hp level.
Don't hijack my thread.

 

My suggestion cause you want to run large tires low numerical gear ratio glide:

Standard bore ls7 piston ls3 stroke crank (everything is stock over the counter)

Now to get off the hole in a hurry cause you be using e85 or straight meth (I suppose) 11.5 compression (assuming this mostly a track car) you are flying off the dig.

A word about the lsx block, these blocks need no sleeves they are hard to bore out so get the closest bore size, they come in different bore diameter even at 4.185 there still almost 3/16 cylinder wall thickness but more at the last two inches (combustion area).

 

Thanks for the input, I think I will end up using the 4.125 x 3.75 bore x stroke combo with a Dart Block.
As for the compression, what would be recommended for street use? I will be running e85 and driving on the street as much as possible.

 

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