5.3 Or 6.0 For 700+HP
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
From: IL
5.3 Or 6.0 For 700+HP After the 5.0 gets the turbo's on, I'm gonna turn my attention to the RX7. The plan is pretty simple with it: Make it light as ****, make good power.
I'm wanting to run a forged motor, regardless as to how "long" they seem to last, I'd rather not risk it and I'll keep it safe for years instead of always wondering if it's gonna last when I take it out.
Would a 5.3 or a 6.0 be better for 700+? Setup will be a 5.3/6.0, decent heads, custom cam, full exhaust, YSi on 20+psi, T56 and 8.8 rear. I'd rather go with an aluminum block, but I'm gonna ball on a budget with some parts with this build so if I HAVE to go Iron, so be it. The car will be losing weight everywhere else. I'm aiming for 2500-2600lbs with me in it.
I figured an LQ9 would be a nice setup to go this route with, as I have seen them with $3k into them making 1300 and going 7.60's.
I'd prolly end up doing a 4.8 crank, H beams, ARP 2000 rod bolts, pistons (wanting some advice for that part), total seal rings, ARP main and head studs, LS7 lifters, etc...
Any advice on what else should be done motor wise? I will be putting it through the ringer. It would be a weekend warrior but would see redline every time I get it out. E85 would be the fuel used. End goal would be 700-800whp and I want it to do it reliably.
I'm wanting to run a forged motor, regardless as to how "long" they seem to last, I'd rather not risk it and I'll keep it safe for years instead of always wondering if it's gonna last when I take it out.
Would a 5.3 or a 6.0 be better for 700+? Setup will be a 5.3/6.0, decent heads, custom cam, full exhaust, YSi on 20+psi, T56 and 8.8 rear. I'd rather go with an aluminum block, but I'm gonna ball on a budget with some parts with this build so if I HAVE to go Iron, so be it. The car will be losing weight everywhere else. I'm aiming for 2500-2600lbs with me in it.
I figured an LQ9 would be a nice setup to go this route with, as I have seen them with $3k into them making 1300 and going 7.60's.
I'd prolly end up doing a 4.8 crank, H beams, ARP 2000 rod bolts, pistons (wanting some advice for that part), total seal rings, ARP main and head studs, LS7 lifters, etc...
Any advice on what else should be done motor wise? I will be putting it through the ringer. It would be a weekend warrior but would see redline every time I get it out. E85 would be the fuel used. End goal would be 700-800whp and I want it to do it reliably.
4.0" bore or bigger. Stick with the stock crank and some decent forged rods/pistons.
Stock LS3 heads/intake will made 1000rwhp with proper fuel/turbo. Beyond about 1000-1100rwhp the stock crank and the 4 bolt head design will be your weak link.
A stock crank can easily handle 7500rpm.... but there really isn't a reason to destroke it with the 4.8 unless you are going to spin some stupid RPM's which a standard T56 won't do. Plus the valvetrain upgrade cost is waaaay more and engine life go down a lot when you spin them crazy high.
Stock LS3 heads/intake will made 1000rwhp with proper fuel/turbo. Beyond about 1000-1100rwhp the stock crank and the 4 bolt head design will be your weak link.
A stock crank can easily handle 7500rpm.... but there really isn't a reason to destroke it with the 4.8 unless you are going to spin some stupid RPM's which a standard T56 won't do. Plus the valvetrain upgrade cost is waaaay more and engine life go down a lot when you spin them crazy high.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
From: IL
4.0" bore or bigger. Stick with the stock crank and some decent forged rods/pistons.
Stock LS3 heads/intake will made 1000rwhp with proper fuel/turbo. Beyond about 1000-1100rwhp the stock crank and the 4 bolt head design will be your weak link.
A stock crank can easily handle 7500rpm.... but there really isn't a reason to destroke it with the 4.8 unless you are going to spin some stupid RPM's which a standard T56 won't do. Plus the valvetrain upgrade cost is waaaay more and engine life go down a lot when you spin them crazy high.
Stock LS3 heads/intake will made 1000rwhp with proper fuel/turbo. Beyond about 1000-1100rwhp the stock crank and the 4 bolt head design will be your weak link.
A stock crank can easily handle 7500rpm.... but there really isn't a reason to destroke it with the 4.8 unless you are going to spin some stupid RPM's which a standard T56 won't do. Plus the valvetrain upgrade cost is waaaay more and engine life go down a lot when you spin them crazy high.
Yes a 4.8 will rev higher to a point but at the cost of low end torque and overall power unless you plan on spinning it to the moon. If your going to rev the crap out of it be prepared to beef up the valve train and maintain it. Light weight valves premium springs and retainers. You can make the same or more power with a stock stroke 6.0 and never have to turn that many rpms. I don't think I would trust a stock crank to turn those rpms for very long.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 123
From: Portland, Oregon
No, the 4.8 crank will not spin higher. Why do people keep saying that? Don't answer that. I don't want to argue about that bullshit right now. The only reason to use the 4.8 crank is to limit displacement. Limiting displacement limits torque. The short stroke also delays that limited torque to appearing later in the rpm band. This acts as a primitive traction control in a lightweight chassis, as well as helping some drivetrain parts survive. But your valvetrain and oiling system will dictate your maximum rpms WAY more than your crankshaft stroke or the associated piston speed.
For your goals, "balling on a budget", I would use a 5.3 aluminum block for the lighter weight and the thicker cylinder sleeves. And since you want forged, I would pick up a 4" stroker kit, making it 359ci... or six liters. Best of both worlds. Then, just make sure your valvetrain is set up for 7000+rpms, and make sure your T56 is built to shift that high.
For your goals, "balling on a budget", I would use a 5.3 aluminum block for the lighter weight and the thicker cylinder sleeves. And since you want forged, I would pick up a 4" stroker kit, making it 359ci... or six liters. Best of both worlds. Then, just make sure your valvetrain is set up for 7000+rpms, and make sure your T56 is built to shift that high.
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Not going to argue about it lol but I was always told that shorter stroke will slow down piston speed and in cases where air flow is limited will allow more rpms to be attained with available air. This is helpful in some restricted race applications where higher rpms is desired even at the same power level. Doesn't mean it will make more power though. Given the fact that he is not limited he wouldn't see any benefit.
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