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I see it's a ~51# K1 crank with ~418g JE/SRP pistons, but which rods are you using? 15kg less rotating mass is a huge improvement.
Mind sharing the specs of that EPS cam?
And, I feel compelled to ask, why did you plug the rear steam vents? I know plenty of people get away with plugging them, and it is cheaper than a decent four corner system... but I still do not understand why people plug them.
PS. The lightest rotating assembly "possible" is probably about 57# with a ~40# Magnum XL crank, 550g lightweight H-beam rods, and asymmetrical 418g pistons. But those Magnum XL cranks are spendy.
Last edited by DavidBoren; 09-24-2016 at 03:30 PM.
You are correct on the crank, I believe weight is around 52# with the reluctor wheel (not sure why some places would weigh it without, as it comes attached) and uncut bobweight of 1775. The JE/SRP pistons are 440g/each to fit a stock LS3 (pin is 106g, to save 55g/ea and 39g/ea respectively). The conn rods are Eagle CRS Lightweight H-beam, 550g/each.
I believe I made a miscalculation in estimating the total rotational mass, as I multiplied the bobweight reduction (1587g final for a 188g loss off the K1) x4 counterweights. I am not sure now, but is the bobweight number a total for the crank? Or is it multiplied x4? x8? If it is just a single number then I wind up 10.5# less rotational weight versus an LS3. With Fidanza flywheel and Super Damper it's 24.2# off, and 33.7# with McLeod RST clutch too.
My EPS cam is 224/230, 116+4 .621/.604 lift.
The stock LS3 heads had the rear steam ports plugged, so I just went ahead and plugged the GM Perf CNC'ed ones to match. Honestly, I'm not really sure what a 4 corner system would gain me. I've also read that it will not fit under the LS3 intake with the PCV system valley plate, and from what I have seen, that seems true.
Agreed on the Magnum XL crank. I am trying to spend smartly on this build. I definitely have not gone cheap, but I am trying to spread the money around. At some point, the cost of premium versions of parts can be put towards other upgrades. It would be awesome to have one of those cranks and titanium connecting rods and lighter valves, but there is still plenty of other stuff that needs to be upgraded in the brakes, driveline, etc., so I'm trying to keep my dreams somewhat more realistic.
The fact that you already have went out of your way to find and spend the money on sub-600g conrods shows your willingness to spend money on reducing mass. And I am sure it will pay off. I really like the specs of your cam, too.
As for the weight of the crankshaft, I got 51# off K1's website. I am not sure how to calculate pre-balanced bobweights into this.
Titanium and aluminum rods actually end up weighing close to the same as forged steel when you demand strength. The benefit of aluminum is the reduced blow to the crankshaft. But these are the things of sponsored professionals or rich people who never drive their cars.
All good points. One of the benefits of having a precise target for the build (Cali street legal, 500hp) is that I can go for things like those conn rods, which would not be a good choice for a 600+ hp boosted build, for example.
Agreed on all counts. I cannot wait to drive this thing again when it is all done. Driving an S10 with 120 HP to work every day makes me want to wait even less. Up until I started the build, this car was my daily for 12 years.
It has a Flowmaster muffler on it now (technically that's leaning against the garage now, but whatever), and it sounds pretty good outside the car, but you don't hear much inside unless you really get on it. I have definitely considered having a custom dual setup put together with a center crossover. My only worry is the space to fit them down the center tunnel. I don't want to have to deal with rattling or clearance issues, as the car is lowered 1.25". There is a good chance I will do it, but probably not until after I sort out the rest of the build and have driven it around for a while.
I managed to disconnect the fuel line from the rail, A/C lines, trans cooler lines, front brake lines-to-distribution block, and upper suspension mounts. The anti-roll bar is removed. All 6 subframe bolts are nice and loose, I just have to support everything and remove the trans crossmember and lower it all down. Oh, and figure out how to get the ground wire off the back of the driver's side head on the way out. Basically, the next day I have to work on this, the engine is coming out. I will be in Boston for a bit though, so that probably won't be until October 15th.
A quick run down:
-Fuel lines disconnected
-Radiator and fans out
-Front brake lines disconnected from distibution block
-Engine/drivetrain removal
-BBK ceramic-coated shortie headers have a cracked weld after only 6 months of use
-Oil PSI sensors (need to swap with new LS1 type)
-Crank position sensors (need to swap with new LS1 type)
-Coolant temp sensors (need to swap with new LS1 type)
-Wiring harness re-pin for newer computer
-Drill and tap mounting bolt nuts for computer (broken off due to rust)
-Visit from the Goodyear blimp
Been doing my best to get work done on the weekends, but Mother Nature and my health have been doing their best to keep me from it. This is most rain we've had in my 17 years in LA--but lord knows, we need it badly with the drought. I am still having back/sciatic nerve pain issues, which makes it hard to get going in the morning, so I wind up sleeping in later than I should. As if that weren't enough, I had the stomach flu, and only a couple weeks later, caught a bad virus and had to go on antibiotics. That said, here's what I have managed to do on the weekends:
-Media blasted all accessory brackets for A/C, alternator, power steering pump
-A/C pump, idler and tensioner pulleys, and belt installed
-Alternator installed
-Power steering pump bracket installed
-New heater core swapped in plus new OEM heater hoses
-Clutch switch wire pre-run through firewall grommet and wired into harness (also reverse solenoid, though I have no pics of this one, as it just runs down the wire loom)
-Wired up the computer harness connectors, then realized when I got the new computer, that the harnesses were upside down the way I had prepped them. I know blue switches to the top, but I had it rotated 180 degrees. D'oh!
-Removed center console, shifter, steering shift interlock mechanism, gas/brake pedals
-Pulled power steering pump and rack, removed hoses and pulley, packed up with new MOOG inner tie rods and shipped off to TurnOne for a rebuild and ported pump (supposed to increase efficiency, less parasitic losses and less heat with slightly more pressure)
-New 2002 PCM/ECU, also had to order a used bracket to make it fit
-Redid the computer wiring harnesses again by extending whichever wires would not reach when the connectors got flipped. Re-wrapped everything AGAIN. Connected computer--hopefully for the last time now.
-New A.I.R. pump swapped in along with new vacuum line which was oddly the only thing that was dry rotted--and badly at that. A lot of rust on the isolator mounting bolts. One broke, but there were enough threads remaining to make it work.
-Swapped all of the lower air dam mounting bolts and U-nuts. When these rust solid, they just tear the bumper trying to get them out. There were already 3 which did exactly this, so I consider this preventative maintenance. I just made new holes for the ones that tore. I got 12 sets, but I actually needed 18--that's all that OSH had--and it still cost me almost $40 in metric hardware. I'll go back and pick up 6 more sets when they restock.
-Some photos of the RCR ported LS3 intake before/after
This last bit, I should probably post in its own thread and make it a sticky, as its seriously one of the great F-body mysteries of the universe:
"Where does that brittle flat braided copper ground cable near the alternator go?"
Well, here is your answer. It goes from the block just behind the alternator (see the rusty bolt that later is replaced with a new one, next to the black "L" piece) and ties to the front frame rail just behind the radiator. I went ahead and made a replacement ground cable out of 10 gauge wire. I actually made 2, since the first one felt too lightweight to me, being made from speaker wire.
Part of me wonders if the reason so many of us have voltage issues with these cars and wind up resorting to truck alternators, is just an assortment of really shitty grounds. I am replacing the full battery cable set. I will keep my factory alternator, which is only about a year old, and see what results after the build. If necessary, I will upgrade. But if voltage is good with an electric water pump and upgraded fuel pump, then I will assume my hypothesis is correct.
You took the time to measure the main and rod clearance but never checked the rod side clearance. Too tight of a side clearance will kill an engine quick. Just sayin.
Unlike the plastigauge process, it's just a simple check with a feeler gauge, so I didn't bother to take any pictures. But that doesn't mean I didn't check each pair of conn rods. I also made sure to spin the crank by hand as things were going together, and it moves quite cleanly.
Good eye. Even with the offset LS3 intake rocker arm, the stud is still close enough to the intake port that when GM CNC's them, it actually opens up that hole. This is a known issue that they warn you about in the paperwork, but it doesn't really pose any problems. All that is required is to use some thread sealer on the rocker arm bolt, and nothing will ever pass through that hole when the engine is running.
-Disassembling the old LS1 intake (Doesn't look too bad for 207K miles. Little bit of oil deposit, and some deposits on the exhaust valve, but no flat spots on the cam, and valley actually looks pretty clean.)
-Lift plate affixed to old LS1, remove from subframe and place into crate for sale later
-TurnOne power steering pump back from rebuild and porting. Pump and serpentine belt installed. All accessories now in place.
-Oil leak sludge cleaned off of subframe
-Power steering rack rebuilt from TurnOne also installed. I'm a bit surprised they didn't slap some paint on it, but if everything works well when it is back together, I'll be happy.
-Remove LS3 from engine stand and attach engine mounts to subframe
-eBay 92mm throttle body for ~$100. Locktite on butterfly screws, hand-chamfered some of the ports
-Trim corner of throttle body to clear water pump
-Remove lift plate and install valley plate
-Install heat shield under Rick Crawford Racing ported intake
-Test fit intake
-Install intake, fuel rail/injectors, and intake acoustic cover
-Install IAC and TPS to throttle body and test fit
-Cut clearance in acoustic cover for throttle cable bracket (bracket install in next update)
-World's most aggressive air restrictor plate (Nah, made a template)
-Transfer template to throttle body
-Port and polish throttle body to mate with intake
-Install throttle body
-MAP sensor adapted to fit LS3 intake using a couple of O-rings and a washer
-Throttle cable bracket installed
-Power steering lines installed
-Fidanza flywheel installed
-Pilot bearing installed (I will probably redo this, as it is 1/8" deeper than flush with face, which I read is too deep)
-BBK header and coils, wires, plugs installed (BBK would have replaced the headers if they still made them, but they don't. Since they are out of warranty, even with only 6 months use, and it is clearly a manufacturing flaw in the crappy weld, they will not do anything. Paid $250 to have one welded and re-ceramic coated. Lame.)
-Vapor canister purge valve lashed in place
-Cleaned underside of chassis from oil and diff leaks
-Disconnected (and cut off, due to rust) rear brake lines
Here's a vid of the post-cleaning underside of the car. I am rolling on a furniture dolly that my friend built, re-purposed as a creeper with a foam mat on it.
09-24-2016, 02:54 PM
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-cla...ers-fbody.html 
(Nah, made a template)
