What rods and pistons for lq4??
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Teching In
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What rods and pistons for lq4?? Wanting to throw an s480 on a 6.0 that I bought, would like to run anywhere from 15-24 psi depending on what the bottom end can handle. I Considered keeping it a sbe motor and just putting new rings and bearings in it and praying, but I do like the idea of having the peace of mind with a good set of rods and pistons. Any opinions and suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated!
You're best/cheapest option is to remove each piston, take the rings off, open the end gaps, reinstall. Work on tune perhaps E85, pump crap for 15 pounds or race grade "true 85" for higher boost.
While forged pistons are much stronger they run looser clearances which allows oil past the rings and that oil can promote detonation.
While forged pistons are much stronger they run looser clearances which allows oil past the rings and that oil can promote detonation.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
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I would love to run e85 but none of the gas stations around me have it! I'm basically stuck with 93 unless I want to buy fuel by the barrel, and that's not worth it for being a car that gets driven on the street more than the track. My goal is to run deep 9's/ high 8's with the setup. Would I see any issues with the stock rods and pistons running that amount of boost? It's an 03 lq4.
I wouldn't run any more than 8 or 9 pounds on 93...perhaps 10-11 with meth injection but it doesn't sound like you want to run low 10s or high nines so then the C16 should be used for track runs at 22-24 pounds where YES the factory crap will make 1000 horsepower....Yellow Bullet is full of these combos
Pantera EFI : New Products OK, use my LS forged rods, on sale now, and RaceTec forged pistons.
You will need a "balance", just filling the crank ?
Not sure, if a "bad" case it could be the same price as when a forged CS was added with "native" 1850 BW.
My use of an OEM cast crankshaft is NOT common, so I ASK that Bob Weight value ?
Lance
You will need a "balance", just filling the crank ?
Not sure, if a "bad" case it could be the same price as when a forged CS was added with "native" 1850 BW.
My use of an OEM cast crankshaft is NOT common, so I ASK that Bob Weight value ?
Lance
OK, use my LS forged rods, on sale now, and RaceTec forged pistons.
You will need a "balance", just filling the crank ?
Not sure, if a "bad" case it could be the same price as when a forged CS was added with "native" 1850 BW.
My use of an OEM cast crankshaft is NOT common, so I ASK that Bob Weight value ?
Lance
You will need a "balance", just filling the crank ?
Not sure, if a "bad" case it could be the same price as when a forged CS was added with "native" 1850 BW.
My use of an OEM cast crankshaft is NOT common, so I ASK that Bob Weight value ?
Lance
Posting some link to the various products that you offer would be very helpful.
Andrew
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Teching In
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Here are some rods I picked up from Lance they are 6" H-beam and they balanced out well out of the box the lightest 641.05 and heaviest was 643.53
After big end small ending them I was at 640.84 across the board I have been dealing with lance on a sbc 383 build using his ecu originally was going to just be efi with coil per cylinder but I had my engine seize due to a faulty gauge reading and overheating so I decided to build a block I had in the garage.
I will be honest with you dealing with him has been good if I can find it cheaper he supports that doesn't pressure me on it. But I have spent and saved allot of money dealing with him.
You need to look at your goals realistically and go from there. What RPM are you going to turn? How much power/boost?
Scat, K1 or Manley H Beams with ARP 2000 bolts and a wrist pin upgrade would be my choice along with either a Manley or Wiseco piston with Total Seal CS AP Ring package. Peace of mind is worth a couple extra bucks IMO.
Scat, K1 or Manley H Beams with ARP 2000 bolts and a wrist pin upgrade would be my choice along with either a Manley or Wiseco piston with Total Seal CS AP Ring package. Peace of mind is worth a couple extra bucks IMO.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Horsepower doesn't really matter I would just like to make a low 9 second pass, or high 8's The car has full suspension already and should be a bit lighter than a stock 4th gen once it's all said and done. I've considered buying rods and pistons out of an 04+ lq4 just to cut down on cost, but then I wonder if I'd have to rebalance the crank for those?
Horsepower doesn't really matter I would just like to make a low 9 second pass, or high 8's The car has full suspension already and should be a bit lighter than a stock 4th gen once it's all said and done. I've considered buying rods and pistons out of an 04+ lq4 just to cut down on cost, but then I wonder if I'd have to rebalance the crank for those?
Andrew
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Well, the machine shops around my area have not been known to be trustworthy and the waiting list's are usually very long. Also not sure how much rebalancing costs. I feel like the 04+ pistons and rods would achieve my goal and be more bang for the buck.
The weight of the car is unknown, last time I weighed it it was right around 3500 with me in it I believe. But since then it has gotten a fab 9" full rear suspension with Viking coilovers, a th400, and race brakes all around, along with front Viking coilovers, and a few other weight reduction mods. For the turbo build it's going to receive a k-member, and eventually a 8 point cage including a window net kit. So the weight is really hard to guess unless I take the car out and weigh it right now, which isn't going to happen, is be willing to bet that et street pro's and ice/snow do not mix well together!!
The weight of the car is unknown, last time I weighed it it was right around 3500 with me in it I believe. But since then it has gotten a fab 9" full rear suspension with Viking coilovers, a th400, and race brakes all around, along with front Viking coilovers, and a few other weight reduction mods. For the turbo build it's going to receive a k-member, and eventually a 8 point cage including a window net kit. So the weight is really hard to guess unless I take the car out and weigh it right now, which isn't going to happen, is be willing to bet that et street pro's and ice/snow do not mix well together!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Horsepower does matter, since it will take a given amount to achieve your goals, given the weight of the car, which you have not stated. Also, what's the aversion to having your rotating assembly balanced? It's not a big deal and any competent machine shop can do it for a reasonable amount. This is not a deal breaker.
Andrew
Andrew
That's why I said the horsepower didn't matter, I wasn't trying to come off as ignorant, I understand it takes an xxx amount of horsepower to run what I want. I'm just not sure what that number is! And if it can be done with my combo/budget or not.
I've hit my 03 LQ4 with 20 lbs of boost from a billet S480. Been a best of 5.98 @ 119 which would have been a low 9 second pass. This engine has been in my car for 4 years now. I am on E85 though.
I have some K1 rods and wiseco pistons going in my spare 6.0 block though.
I have some K1 rods and wiseco pistons going in my spare 6.0 block though.
Bob Weight Sheet The "balance" question is the best one asked and the COST question.
No answer was provided.
No one here, above, reminder you to measure the weight of the rod AND piston.
You can be lighter, NOT Heavier.
The "rods", there are two plants in China, Shenzgen Province.
They are next to each other as witness by myself.
The make most of the rods for the companies listed above, the Non-USA rods, the Non-Billet rods.
The REAL cost is the balance, with Mallory often required, in OEM crankshafts.
Then add the cost of a grind requirement ?
WHEN you add up the costs, a Forged 4.00"/4.10" crankshaft @ 1850 BW could cost LESS.
Lance
No answer was provided.
No one here, above, reminder you to measure the weight of the rod AND piston.
You can be lighter, NOT Heavier.
The "rods", there are two plants in China, Shenzgen Province.
They are next to each other as witness by myself.
The make most of the rods for the companies listed above, the Non-USA rods, the Non-Billet rods.
The REAL cost is the balance, with Mallory often required, in OEM crankshafts.
Then add the cost of a grind requirement ?
WHEN you add up the costs, a Forged 4.00"/4.10" crankshaft @ 1850 BW could cost LESS.
Lance
Teching In
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From: Lexington Ky
Part # I also have a lq4 bored .030 over looking to build for low medium boost and I’m looking for rods and pistons wondering if anyone has any part numbers planned on going forged with stock measurements on rods and flat top pistons with a valve relief just want to make sure I don’t order the wrong setup or rods that don’t match up to the pistons so if anybody has some part numbers I would greatly appreciate it
Also using stock polished crank
Also using stock polished crank