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max? effort alum block build

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Old 01-09-2017, 06:49 PM   #1
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Default max? effort alum block build

Main bearing clearances....... What am I looking for???? Turbo app. LC9 block.

.0030 desired at operating temp, what is that clearance in my dining room......
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:43 PM   #2
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Some of the aluminum blocked motors I used to build would not turn when they were cold.

Because the gaps opened up so much when hot I could not keep bearings in it.

And if that twists up your chonies get one of these http://www.hotheadheater.com
My buddy designed this to solve these problems.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:50 AM   #3
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Default Steel Mains/Al Block

HI, he is correct, the Housing Bore will GROW.
I try to get .002" though .0022" is more of the average size.

My first experience was a Ford Boss 494 Can AM engine, then a Seyler Ford Boss block.
We "shot" for .001" - .0015" as they had AL main caps !

Many machine shop's "boil" the block then check housing bores.

Lance
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Old 01-15-2017, 06:21 PM   #4
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OK i'm confused.....a reputable sponsor recommends .0028-.0031 regardless of block material. Does gm use different bearings between blocks for oem apps???
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm-inc View Post
OK i'm confused.....a reputable sponsor recommends .0028-.0031 regardless of block material. Does gm use different bearings between blocks for oem apps???
Not really, but GM did go to a different coated bearing for the newer engines and some of the blower engines. I robbed a set of Gen V LT1 coated main bearings and LSA coated rod bearings for my turbo LQ4 build.

It's better to be too loose than too tight. In an aluminum block power adder application, .0025"+ seems to work fine on the mains. It really comes down to what parts and how much power its really going to have to endure.
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:55 PM   #6
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Picked up the block today.

.0055 piston to wall clearance
Wiseco 3.80 pistons
Eagle rods
Stock polished crank

Balanced of course

King +.001 main bearings should get me where I need to be then?

I have a (cheap) dial bore gauge and am going to order a good micrometer tonight. I'll double check with plastigauge.

+.001 on king rod bearings as well?
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:27 PM   #7
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So I now have -

mitutoyo 2-3" .0001 micrometer

.0005 bore gauge

.001 increased clearance king xp bearings

Haven't touched the bore gauge in a few years and the collet that clamps the extension rods is missing....... Anyone know where to source one locally? I am wondering if a 1/4" rotozip collet would work? Its the 100$ish gauge that all look the same with the red case.

EDIT-Oh, also got the summit piston ring filer
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Old 02-08-2017, 12:08 PM   #8
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Default Main Bearing Clearance

HI, WRONG choice, use the King standard fit MAINS, not the +.001.

The mains with KING standard fit should be about .0022".
The rods with KING Race bearings should be .0032".

You may be able to buy the missing items at Harbor Freight.

Lance
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantera EFI View Post
HI, WRONG choice, use the King standard fit MAINS, not the +.001.

The mains with KING standard fit should be about .0022".
The rods with KING Race bearings should be .0032".

You may be able to buy the missing items at Harbor Freight.

Lance

Well crap. Do you stock the bearings I need? PM me a quote to 60185?
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:42 PM   #10
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I need some help here.....

Due to the varying opinions on clearances, I decided to stick with one person's. I bought the bearings and wisecos from LJMS, so I am going with his. He suggests .0027-.0031 regardless of block material, and it usually takes the .001 extra clearance bearings to get there. He also suggested the std rod bearings. So I kept the +.001 mains and got the std rod bearings and a 10296 pump from LJMS.

This is my first time measuring clearances, and I am 91% sure I am doing it right. I bought a used mitutoyo .0001 mic. I don't know if it is 100% accurate, but should be good for zeroing the bore gauge.

I am still working with the crank, but did measure 1 rod journal. All mains were 2.5592. The one rod journal I measured is 2.100.

So my concern is the main clearance for now. Zeroing the gauge a few times, I am at .0039-.0041. I understand that is way too much if I am indeed measuring correctly.

I put a one of the stock used bearings in, and got .0022. I only measured one rod and got .0024. I don't think I am measuring wrong at this point.

Stock polished crank with 80k.

At this point, std king xp bearings would be .0029ish?
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:42 PM   #11
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Are you doing larger head studs? The stock 75-80ft/lb clamping load will be the weak link with trying to keep the heads down.

After that it'll be the crank over time
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-ls1-crank.jpg
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Old 03-11-2017, 03:52 PM   #12
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With std king xp bearings I have .0023-.0025 on the mains. About the thrust....
I snugged the inner bolts to 15 ft lbs. Smacked the crank back then forward with a rubber mallet. Torqued the bolts to spec.

With a dial indicator on the crank snout, and prying fairly hard, I get .003 each way. So is that .003 or .006 clearance????
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Old 03-11-2017, 04:25 PM   #13
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I can move the crank .003 just pushing back and forth with my hands if that is relevant info.
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:42 PM   #14
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.0055 piston wall to piston clearance with Wiseco. forged
Pistons? That might rattle a bit when cold.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
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.0055 piston wall to piston clearance with Wiseco. forged
Pistons? That might rattle a bit when cold.
Yes it may, but that wasnt my question. Any input on thrust clearance??
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm-inc View Post
With std king xp bearings I have .0023-.0025 on the mains. About the thrust....
I snugged the inner bolts to 15 ft lbs. Smacked the crank back then forward with a rubber mallet. Torqued the bolts to spec.

With a dial indicator on the crank snout, and prying fairly hard, I get .003 each way. So is that .003 or .006 clearance????
I usually hit it back, then forward, then torque everything.

Clearance is total travel. If you push the crank back, set the indicator to zero, then push it forward and you get .003", then that's your end play. IMO, that's a little too tight. To fix it, I would use a piece of fine grit sandpaper on a granite tile, wet it with WD40, and with the two thrust bearing shells together, rub them on the wet sandpaper in a figure 8. I'll clean the bearings and check again, then repeat until I get .005-.007" depending on the application.
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
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I usually hit it back, then forward, then torque everything.

Clearance is total travel. If you push the crank back, set the indicator to zero, then push it forward and you get .003", then that's your end play. IMO, that's a little too tight. To fix it, I would use a piece of fine grit sandpaper on a granite tile, wet it with WD40, and with the two thrust bearing shells together, rub them on the wet sandpaper in a figure 8. I'll clean the bearings and check again, then repeat until I get .005-.007" depending on the application.
Total travel with a big screw driver is .006. Moving it back and forth with just my hand is .003.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:19 AM   #18
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That should be fine then. I'd run it.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:41 PM   #19
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That should be fine then. I'd run it.
OK, great! Thanks! I am sure I will have a few more questions.
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