Is this block good to use for a build?
Is this block good to use for a build? http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS7-Aluminum...dYFmui&vxp=mtr
So I just got an Exocet and have been building it. I am running an LS6 with a turbo now but have been dreaming of building a high reving destroked motor. I have gathered 6.3 rods and a 4.8 crank but can I even use any of this stuff with this? It looks like potentially the block has not been bored as much as it could. Anyone got any input on if I should go for it or no?
So I just got an Exocet and have been building it. I am running an LS6 with a turbo now but have been dreaming of building a high reving destroked motor. I have gathered 6.3 rods and a 4.8 crank but can I even use any of this stuff with this? It looks like potentially the block has not been bored as much as it could. Anyone got any input on if I should go for it or no?
He says "1 USED GM aluminum LS7 block with 55mm roller cam bearings, bushed .937 lifters, 9.225 deck and a 4.078 bore. This is a GM racing Daytona prototype block. It would be perfect for a hot street or drag build."
LS series engines normally have a .842" lifter diameter, this block appears set up cor .937 diameter lifters and your choice of lifters will be based on that. The bigger diameter lifters are usually ideal for solid roller cam set ups and that sounds like the direction of your destroked high revving engine.
The cam will probably have to be custom ground and spec'd taking into account the bigger wheel (.850?) on the bigger lifters etc.
Jesel, Morel & LSM all make the appropriate sort of lifter.
Seems like a good block matched to your goal. Just make sure you have a good ideal what the whole engine build will cost before buying the block. With that said you can probably resell the block if you change your mind and not get hurt.
This old threax might be of interest...
http://https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/521420-best-lifter-solid-roller.html
Others may have more insight than I do on this, i haven't done an LS7 build.
LS series engines normally have a .842" lifter diameter, this block appears set up cor .937 diameter lifters and your choice of lifters will be based on that. The bigger diameter lifters are usually ideal for solid roller cam set ups and that sounds like the direction of your destroked high revving engine.
The cam will probably have to be custom ground and spec'd taking into account the bigger wheel (.850?) on the bigger lifters etc.
Jesel, Morel & LSM all make the appropriate sort of lifter.
Seems like a good block matched to your goal. Just make sure you have a good ideal what the whole engine build will cost before buying the block. With that said you can probably resell the block if you change your mind and not get hurt.
This old threax might be of interest...
http://https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/521420-best-lifter-solid-roller.html
Others may have more insight than I do on this, i haven't done an LS7 build.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Jan 11, 2017 at 10:08 AM.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS7-Aluminum...dYFmui&vxp=mtr
So I just got an Exocet and have been building it. I am running an LS6 with a turbo now but have been dreaming of building a high reving destroked motor. I have gathered 6.3 rods and a 4.8 crank but can I even use any of this stuff with this? It looks like potentially the block has not been bored as much as it could. Anyone got any input on if I should go for it or no?
So I just got an Exocet and have been building it. I am running an LS6 with a turbo now but have been dreaming of building a high reving destroked motor. I have gathered 6.3 rods and a 4.8 crank but can I even use any of this stuff with this? It looks like potentially the block has not been bored as much as it could. Anyone got any input on if I should go for it or no?
I could be wrong, but those look like aluminum liners, not iron. The liners are probably nikasil coated, which would mean little to no oversize on the bore diameter. That cylinder finish looks SUPER slick too.
LSX Iron Block "down under" There are many customers of mine in the Southern, AU & NZ, part of the planet.
They are great "gear heads" and use a lot of my IGN-1A coils.
The report I found interesting, A "NOS" LSX Iron Block report.
The LS-X Iron Block @ 4.200" bore.
The bench dyno test did NOT last long as the Head Stud block bolt location CRACKED into the bore when the "spray" was given.
The DFX engine has AL liners with Nikasil spray coating, great for heat transfer.
There is a GREAT difference in the GM 316 AL vs RHS 356 AL material strength.
The C5-R has 356 AL, what material is the Daytona (C5-R ?) block ?
Lance
They are great "gear heads" and use a lot of my IGN-1A coils.
The report I found interesting, A "NOS" LSX Iron Block report.
The LS-X Iron Block @ 4.200" bore.
The bench dyno test did NOT last long as the Head Stud block bolt location CRACKED into the bore when the "spray" was given.
The DFX engine has AL liners with Nikasil spray coating, great for heat transfer.
There is a GREAT difference in the GM 316 AL vs RHS 356 AL material strength.
The C5-R has 356 AL, what material is the Daytona (C5-R ?) block ?
Lance
Nikasil?
Isn't that the stuff Jaguar used in the 90's to line their aluminum V8's that high sulfur gasoline reacted with eating the cylinder liner in about one or two years of street driving?
Might have to be very careful with fuel selection...
Would gas quality be a concern with the Nikasil liners?
Isn't that the stuff Jaguar used in the 90's to line their aluminum V8's that high sulfur gasoline reacted with eating the cylinder liner in about one or two years of street driving?
Might have to be very careful with fuel selection...
Would gas quality be a concern with the Nikasil liners?
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Nikasil has been around for quite awhile. I've never heard of it being used in an automotive application, but several of the dirt bikes I've owned through the late 80's and throughout the 90's used nikasil/chrome bore, especially kawasaki. I only had a problem with one of the cylinders peeling a little, pretty tough stuff actually.
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So can I use my 4.8 crank? If I can use the crank I assume I can use the rods but just gotta buy some pistons. It looks like that lifter bore is pretty standard NASCAR stuff. Is LS7 style stuff just generally more expensive?
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Verdad Gallardo Cup Blocks Hi, years ago MOST CUP engines, iron blocks, had the bores "Nikasiled".
The cost for that alone was $200.00 each bore.
This block of yours is a "professional motorsport item" though you might want a "Zyglo" inspection warranty.
The "krowey" remark about KHI : Yes AND my Chief Design Engineer Jerry M.
created a V-8 out of TWO ZX-11's.
A KHI block, for INDY, a Scat crank from Tom, most other items where ZX-11.
My ECU882C was fitted, tested at KHI Irvine @ 13,500 RPM.
This engine is operation to this day, I have a "tube" reference, just ask.
Lance
The cost for that alone was $200.00 each bore.
This block of yours is a "professional motorsport item" though you might want a "Zyglo" inspection warranty.
The "krowey" remark about KHI : Yes AND my Chief Design Engineer Jerry M.
created a V-8 out of TWO ZX-11's.
A KHI block, for INDY, a Scat crank from Tom, most other items where ZX-11.
My ECU882C was fitted, tested at KHI Irvine @ 13,500 RPM.
This engine is operation to this day, I have a "tube" reference, just ask.
Lance