When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I pulled the starter this weekend to put my flywheel holding tool on to do arp bolts etc. Well low and behold there is a crack near the starter bridge that runs from the CPS to the back cover. I was wondering if a machine shop could tig it up/repair it, or if I should even try that.
My block was welded in that location. This happened before I owned the car. I changed my starter out and in the process discovered the weld. Whether this was done with the engine out or not, I don't know. The car is bone stock so I'm going to assume it was done with the engine in. So, it's possible.
My block was welded in that location. This happened before I owned the car. I changed my starter out and in the process discovered the weld. Whether this was done with the engine out or not, I don't know. The car is bone stock so I'm going to assume it was done with the engine in. So, it's possible.
Thank you for the info. I think that CPS sensor bung probably arrested the crack from going further. I am guessing it could be done in the car, but probably best to pull it have a machine shop check it over.
Nearly impossible to get aluminum clean enough to weld on the vehicle plus the crack will need to be stop drilled and groved. It will most likely need to be preheated also. I would pull the engine to fix-evaluate then you can repair or replace based on your findings.. But that is just me.
That is an odd place for the block to crack. I wonder what could have caused that? I wonder if its clutch or crank related?
Well funny you mention that. This car is a weekend toy and I broke a DS a while back, DS took out the tailhousing of the T56 and bellhousing cracked too. I thought the damage was limited to that and had already replaced the tailhousing and bellhousing. FWIW the motor has no problem starting. For now I am just going to put a used shortblock in the car and build something better down the road.
Well funny you mention that. This car is a weekend toy and I broke a DS a while back, DS took out the tailhousing of the T56 and bellhousing cracked too. I thought the damage was limited to that and had already replaced the tailhousing and bellhousing. FWIW the motor has no problem starting. For now I am just going to put a used shortblock in the car and build something better down the road.
lol I did something similar when I broke ten bolt. Twisted the DS and yoke and effed the tailshaft and housing. Thankfully none of it made it to the motor. I think the rear took the brunt of it
I've seen a lot of high output aluminum motors repaired, they really need to be dismantled, cleaned, the crack or hole "windowed" and a slug welded in if the hole is big enough, a crack would normally get a mill job and then weld the groove shut.
The ones I've seen done were done on a CNC mill and were hard to get blocks...
Is that an LS1? I'm assuming so with the black CKP. If so why worry about it? Start a new build with a good block and stop side stepping the clutch at 5k for the time being.
Is that an LS1? I'm assuming so with the black CKP. If so why worry about it? Start a new build with a good block and stop side stepping the clutch at 5k for the time being.
yep I mistakenly put this in the wrong sub-forum. FWIW that happened at the top of third gear, thought a goddamn bomb went off under the car. The DS broke at both ends, looks like it might have failed at yoke first, but I am not 100%. At this point I am already looking for a shortblock. I thought of fixing it initially, but it's just not worth it. The car is a toy, so no hurry, may even go Gen IV.
yep I mistakenly put this in the wrong sub-forum. FWIW that happened at the top of third gear, thought a goddamn bomb went off under the car. The DS broke at both ends, looks like it might have failed at yoke first, but I am not 100%. At this point I am already looking for a shortblock. I thought of fixing it initially, but it's just not worth it. The car is a toy, so no hurry, may even go Gen IV.
lol I did something similar when I broke ten bolt. Twisted the DS and yoke and effed the tailshaft and housing. Thankfully none of it made it to the motor. I think the rear took the brunt of it
Darth_V8r,
Didn't you RECENTLY find a crack in your block? I am thinking trhis post was before that. Best of luck to both of you.
If you want to save the next engine use the truck starter with the two equal length bolts. It won't break off like the stock ls1 starter does. The problem is the ls1 starter is weak because of the way it mounts with one short bolt. If the engine gets tough to turn over for ANY reason the mount on the short side breaks off taking the block with it because the starter twists itself away from the engine. As it twists away from the fltwheel the longer bolt can't break off so it breaks the engine mount off with it as it moves with the starter.
The stronger truck starter can't break off like this bevause the inboard mount is stronger using the longer bolt.
Actually GM should have updated this but never did!
If anyone changes out their starter, opt for the truck starter. Fits directly on the LS1 and instead of having a long and short bolt like the stock starter, it has two long bolts. Supposedly helps to prevent things like this from happening, and costs the same.
08-07-2017, 12:44 PM
Is my block trashed? 
