Hello everyone. I thought I would share my build thread as it progresses over the next several months. I have a goal to be running in the spring as time and money allows.

I have decided to switch motor platforms in my G body drag car. I have been running a Pontiac for years but am changing over to the LS world. It seems to be a good way for me to maybe make a little more power, loose some weight, and be able to get parts in days not months.

Motor details are as follows:

Iron 6.0 bored to 4.030 and honed with deck plates
New GM crank 3.622
K1 rods
Weisco 12cc dome pistons
TSP CNC LS3 heads with stainless hollow stem valves 64 cc
Hoping to be around 13.5:1 compression
E85
Cam and valve train will be Spec'd by Martin Smallwood as I start assembling engine and fine tune some specs
CID intake
Holley EFI
vacuum pump
1 7/8 4th gen speed engineering headers modified slightly to fit a g body
3" exhaust with x pipe and magnaflow mufflers dumped at the rear axle.

3300 lbs
Th400 with a brake
PTC converter spec'd appropriately
4.56 gear
275 Pro Radial
Should be right around 3250 race weight

So what does everyone think this should run ET wise? I have some goals but will keep them to myself until after we make a few hits and iron it out. I have no problem spinning this thing 8k plus. It's not my work car so if it breaks, it goes in the trailer until I get around to fixing it.

 

Depending on cam specs, I'd say somewhere between 9.0 and 15.0 seconds in the quarter.

KW

 

9.0, lol. At least part of your reply was optimistic. I don't think that's gonna happen though. 15.0 could happen if something goes wrong, so you never know.

 

Well.......neither should happen.......but you'll fall somewhere in there, depending on the cam specs......

KW

 

In Martin I trust.

 

Rpm peak will be the deciding factor as I know Martin has started favoring the CID intake. Thought of *ER Racing* (with a .030 bore vs standard Ls3 .065 bore.) my ? Comes bac to how much rpm as it's harder on parts & adds more to cost over all. Good vac would be nice. Higher stall would help place you near a 9 sec car at 3200lbs and 4.56's rpm is needed to go 9"s. 5200 + stall maybe more or less depending on Rpm.

 

Small end rod clearance was checked and is consistent. I actually got all the spirolocs in without a bloody finger for once.

 

I really expect the converter to be 5500+ with this combination. If the gearing proves to need adjusted, I will do that as needed. I usually 1/8th mile race but like having a car capable of doing both.

 

Low 10's? It's a nice set up.

 

Better approximations can be done when cam specs are know. Martin should get you as close to optimal as anyone could.

Best of luck!!!

KW

 

Luckily, the chassis it's going in is fairly well sorted out. Other than having to tighten the front end up due to the weight loss of the LS over the Pontiac that was in there, it shouldn't give me too much hassle I hope.

This was the last hit the Iron headed Pontiac made with a 1.41 60 ft. That torque motor sure was fun.

 

Yep! Looks like a very uplifting experience! LOL (Could NOT resist!)

 

You all got me with this smaller stroke stuff. It's easier to Rev! I'm down to 2 cam choices and 1 just doesn't have enough compression( the Other is perfect) who would think a build with 13.1 comp would spin too 8500 + for Rpm. More compression would be nice but it did so well it's got me. Love the way your chassis hooks need to try and keep the car down for Lower ET. Fellow told me he's unwilling to do my suspension unless I get a 6point cage. Said it would twist like pretzel. S&W roll cage for the save. I have a nice stall as is for a 4l80e but decided to call and see what's made in a 8 inch converter (window shopping) No one has it as a shelf part. Chris said he would have to make me 1. Cost was 1500 vs 900 for my 1st inch single disc. converter. Options add to the 1500. Options I like. I'll get the cage this wk it's pretty cheap.

 

Growing up as an SBC guy the thought of a 3.622 stroke being "short" is kinda funny

 

The above picture was leaving off the trans brake. When leaving off the foot, the front end was only half as high. The et difference was .003 at 60 ft and .01 at the 1/8th.

 

Hi Racer82, I ask the Tooth Count of your Crankshaft Target Wheel ?

The two choices are 24xe and 58x.

I ask the Timing Set Choice ?

Lance

 

Hammer your right as my old 383 only had a 3.75 stroke with .030 over and that's a lot for a factory block as in crank on a gen 1 sbc. 4 inches is my new gold standard.


I seen and read about how sometimes leaving on the foot brake can result in a better ET and 60ft against a trans brake with a two step. You can try either to see what the car likes. I've got to inquire on how we could set it up to not do a wheelstand. I'm going with a Caltrax setup in the rear with a nice size tire 305 min. Honestly didn't want a cage and Still don't. But asking for mid 1.20's to 1.30's sixty foot. I guess. The bars going thur the back window is what's eating at me. It's no longer a sleeper when you can plainly see the cage coming out the back window to help keeping it from twisting. I know it's nesassary but want to look and seem stock as much as possible. Don't ask how much stall I have in mind. I'm just saying F it.

 

58x

Rollmaster 4x

 

Bracket I assume your using a ecu conversion for 58 wheel to 24 wheel older style ecu. I know the newer style ecu' requires a drive by wire cable system. I'm using the same timing chain also.

 

Hi Bracket, GOOD Choice, the 58x TW has a 1/4* Spark Accuracy.

This is ALSO good for coil Dwell Control.

DO you have the 4.x version Firmware in YOUR Holley ECU ?

There are TWO concerns, coil compatibility AND UEGO damage with the newer wiring harness, the older ones work great. (vendor changed)

I am working on this with Dave at Water Thunder, we will "scope" the UEGO.

Doug Flynn is also copied.

Lance