Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. I feel that the axle oiling option is mandatory when spring pressures get high. I don’t have a power number in mind, but I’ve seen Tony’s builds over on CorvetteForum reaching 640-650 to the tires, so I’m excited. I’d be happy with 620 to the tire.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Installed the camshaft and degreed it to determine exactly what I had, and make sure that the camshaft was built according to spec. I’m using a Rollmaster billet timing set on this build, with an Iwis single chain. The crank sprocket has built in cam timing elements, via a key way slot. I spent an entire evening moving this around to determine what would work best for me, using Tony’s consultation on the phone. He designed the heads and cam, so who better to ask? Ended up installing cam at 111. Here’s some pics. Threw an LS2 chain damper on it for good measure.Note the ARP bolts used throughout the entire build...

lowcountry

iTrader: (1)

Thought it would be easier to show the original post...


https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...p-n-build.html


Those cam specs are pretty healthy. I thought mine might be borderline streetable...


Knee replacement surgery and some other issues have kept me out of the garage - just now getting things together. Have not fired it up yet. Got the engine installed - working on driveline angles at the moment. I hope to have this pig on the road before Christmas...

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Went with an Isky solid roller lifter. The lifters I have were optioned with captive tie bars, and EDM axle oiling. Pretty nice units. Let me give you guys out there advice concerning lifter installation. Whichever lifter you purchase, if they are new lifters, you MUST clean them first with a solvent that will cut the assembly/packing grease out of them. Never, and I’ll say again, NEVER install a new lifter into an engine without first making sure you get all of the crap out of them. This stuff is designed to allow the bearing/roller part of the lifter to be shipped all over the planet with protection from rust. So it’s a thick, gel like substance that doesn’t gel with oil very good. It’s not a step to be skipped. Please take your time here and do this correctly. After doing this, realize that you now need to get oil back into the roller unit, so I soak mine in a container. I do this with my rockers as well, if they are needle bearing type. Same thing...
And if your buying used lifters, are you sure there won’t be metal dust in the rollers? Maybe worse? Clean those suckers!!!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Very nice! Mines still on the stand. I’m awaiting valve covers. I had ARH build me 2” primary headers, and they finally showed up. Damon at Mast is building me a startup tune, and then will remotely tune it. I’m hoping for mid December install.
Agreed on the cam specs. That why I pulled back some...numbers were getting pretty big. I wish your link worked for the dyno pull. Photobucket strikes again. I’d love to hear it sing. Your torque curve is just crazy flat! Awesome!

carbuff

iTrader: (8)

Scott,

As you know, I'm building a very similar engine with a single plane intake vs. the plastic style intake. Same RED sleeved 434" target (LS9 block), a little less compression (~11.8 - 12.0:1), same heads, and similar cam. I love that your cam is slightly 'backed off', as Tony and I 'pushed' mine a little in his words. I'm running a 252/266 vs. your 254/268. Mine is also on a 114.

I assume you are quoting your lift with 1.7:1 ratio rockers. The YT's are 1.85:1, so your lift should be higher at the valve, correct?

My block is just back at the machine shop to start assembly. If all goes well, I'll have dyno results in December. It will be great to compare our build results!

lowcountry

iTrader: (1)

You are doing what I would like to have done - putting together your own engine. This is my first experience with the LS platform and I didn't want to screw it up doing it myself the first time. I am old school and have built many 1st gen sbc's. When I talked to Tony, I decided to let him build it and learn what I can. Next one is on me!


Your build is beautiful. I appreciate your attention to detail - we share a similar approach to engine building. I almost bought a Mast crate before letting Tony talk me into one of his creations. One of my concerns was the initial tune. Not knowing anything about computer controlled engines, wasn't sure what to do. Ended up buying a GM LS7 ecm/wiring harness that they sell for their LS7 crate engines. I am hoping this will let me crank it and get it running good enough to get it to the tuner.


When I get it running I will post a video and pictures...Look forward to seeing yours running. I assume you'll be getting a chassis dyno?

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Bryan you are correct on the lift. The math I did showed it to be a 720”ish intake number. Glad to hear that yours is going together. I was afraid that the flooding out there might have gotten the best of your engine. Good for you!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I built many, many sbc’s in my day. You for sure need to build your next one, just jump in and do it.
Your initial tune will need work. The tune for that factory ls7 is a far cry from what your putting together. It might start your car, but it won’t run right at all. The last thing you want is your new engine getting the cylinders washed down from an incorrect tune. You need to find a guy who can “flash” your new ecm. Make some calls. If you can’t find anyone, I’ll get you contact info for Mike at Vengeance. He does my flash work on the engines I do with GM electronics. You can mail him your ecm, and he will turn it around in a day. Once it’s flashed, it will run, and run good, but trust me on this, you will want a tuner to max out your tune on a chassis dyno. There’s usually a generous amount of power to be found on a chassis dyno with a good tuner. You’ve spent too much money to leave any power on the table, as have I. Yes I will dyno mine, at Vengeance, probably with Damon tuning via remote if Mike doesn’t mind.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Here’s some more random pictures of the oil pan install, front cover install, ATI hub install, modeling clay showing pickup to pan clearance, etc...in no particular order.

lowcountry

iTrader: (1)

Love the Wix. That's all I use...


Yes I would be interested in your suggestion about getting my ECM "flashed". How much $ are we talking about? Thanks. Feel free to PM me if you think that's better...


Hey, just made the connection, do you know "MadMike" founder of NastyZ28.com? He's from Dawsonville also...

KCS

iTrader: (20)

How are you measuring ring gap that precisely?

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

KCS, thanks for asking. Everyone has a “feel” that they incorporate while using feeler gauges. I was taught this “feel” from an expert builder years ago. While this may seem objective to some, it’s not for me. I have feeler gauges in .002”, .0025”, .003”, etc as im sure you do as well. So I stack my gauges, and I know what feel I must have...that’s the easy part. The struggle with this is the hours and hours that it takes to get it this precise. I’ve seen engine builders file a set of rings in 30 minutes, and say “close enough”. I don’t exactly do things that way...took me two evenings to file mine...almost 8 hours.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I’ll send you a PM.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Ok gotcha. I was just wondering if there was some gauge you were using that I hadn't known about yet.

TrickFlowTech

Neat build! Good people to work with too!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the compliment!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

So...back from vacation. Not a lot more to share here, honestly. Got the heads on the engine for the last time, and the ARP head bolts torqued. At this point I have already checked PTV previously, and did some preliminary checking on pushrod length. With the heads final torqued, I spent some considerable time setting up my rocker heights with the provided shims from YellaTerra. Once my wipe pattern on my valve tips, both intake and exhaust were satisfactory, I torqued the rocker stand bolts down and proceeded to find my pushrod length, using my Comp adjustable length pushrod tool. I got Tony the lengths, and the pushrods were in my shop in a week. Once in my hand, I checked the length to make sure that they were right, which they were. Spent a half hour or so cleaning the pushrods, and finally got to set my valve lash. Here’s some pics...

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Valve cover showed up. I went with Katech covers. Got them cleaned up and painted. These are very nicely made covers.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Before I set the intake on, I had to take a picture of this. I looked down the intake runners, and one of my intake valves (number 3) was way down. If you look closely, you can just make out the valve outline below the cylinder wall hatch marks. It’s open far enough to almost throw my rott through...