The Pontiacolypse
I would just like to state that you guys in the Carolina's suck....that hurricane has sucked all the overcast and clouds out of FL and we're setting records for heat and humidity. I kid of course and hope everyone's ok, I've got family there too.....this weather is just brutal right now.
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Joined: Apr 2017
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Well Darth did it again.....Canted valve 10 degree Ls7 heads. If you remember I asked this from the Trickflow guy, we had this conversation months ago....never came back with an answer after the 1st of the yr. So simple my friend just got confirmation back that it would work. 2nd set I've come up with. Not gonna do them but ........ You get the idea. Anybody can have a set Ha Ha...
Did That!
Did That!
Last edited by Patron; Sep 20, 2018 at 12:26 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Banned
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Yea last night it hit me who has the heads and what work need to be done.... I'll send the info over to you....Called the head manufator and ran into a little bump. But it's doable to make another head. It's gonna trip you out what I came up with. PM'ed Chad Speier to ask him about about it and said they do the same thing All the time to SBC heads.
Yea last night it hit me who has the heads and what work need to be done.... I'll send the info over to you....Called the head manufator and ran into a little bump. But it's doable to make another head. It's gonna trip you out what I came up with. PM'ed Chad Speier to ask him about about it and said they do the same thing All the time to SBC heads.
In the SBC world it is/was common to roll the 18 degree 10184363 casting heads to 15 degrees. Hell, even GM did the same and offered it as a different part number.
It's also a great way to get the chamber CC's down without taking so much off the deck.
What? Angle-mill the head and roll the angle from 15 to 12, or 12 to 10, etc.?
In the SBC world it is/was common to roll the 18 degree 10184363 casting heads to 15 degrees. Hell, even GM did the same and offered it as a different part number.
It's also a great way to get the chamber CC's down without taking so much off the deck.
In the SBC world it is/was common to roll the 18 degree 10184363 casting heads to 15 degrees. Hell, even GM did the same and offered it as a different part number.
It's also a great way to get the chamber CC's down without taking so much off the deck.
Forgot to mention --
Those are uncorrected numbers.
Fuel injectors went static during the pulls. I added fuel and AFR went from 13.1-13.3.
Guy at the shop was very complimentary of the car. Said he would trust it anywhere. So that was cool.
In a few weeks I'll go back with better tires, more normal fuel, 102 TB spacer or possibly Holley 105 TB, better injectors, so we will see.
Those are uncorrected numbers.
Fuel injectors went static during the pulls. I added fuel and AFR went from 13.1-13.3.
Guy at the shop was very complimentary of the car. Said he would trust it anywhere. So that was cool.
In a few weeks I'll go back with better tires, more normal fuel, 102 TB spacer or possibly Holley 105 TB, better injectors, so we will see.
sent back to summit racing.
ls3 has a notch for the cam to.clear
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 10,451
Likes: 1,873
From: My own internal universe
Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
I bought the Holley throttle body spacer to make sure I get full throttle and didnt need it for mine. It cleared just fine.
sent back to summit racing.
ls3 has a notch for the cam to.clear
sent back to summit racing.
ls3 has a notch for the cam to.clear
So I busted the oil pan completely. I accidentally jumped on a railroad crossing. Pan was already deeper than stock, bottomed out, and finished it off.
There is a holley pan that has a deeper shallow section and a F body depth sump with 5.5 quarts capacity so I grabbed that one. 302-1 is the part number. But it will not clear stock steering gear, so if you end up in a similar boat, buyer beware. Probably also needs the tubular K to fit properly in a F car.
The windage tray I have does not clear F body pan. Ordered a crank scraper from improved racing to replace the windage tray. So when it is done, I should have a permanent solution and 2 inches better ground clearance. Just frustrating when you think you are done and do something dumb
Kind of a dumb update, but with being about to have a daughter get married and about to move to the east coast, I haven't been able to do any mechanical stuff. I did have where the car got really low on power when phoenix started getting hot (over 110). Turns out my IAT were reading High AF, so the car was pulling timing and running lean. So I tweaked the curve to make sure it didn't run lean any more, and I got full power back.
One thing I'm finding more and more as i drive it and fine tune it, it's actually quieter and more pleasant to drive. When you get on it, it's still loud and angry of course, but cruising down the road in sixth, you'd hardly know it was pushing the kind of power it is. My warm idle Map readings are getting down to the 50's, it's perfectly happy at 850 rpm, and I was able to lighten up on the adaptive spark, so the idle is less lumpy. I might try backing off even more, just don't want to get the idle dips, so taking it small steps.
Very happy with the decision to go bigger motor. Either it's easier to tune or it's less sensitive to minor changes
Only "comfort" thing I'd like to change is this resonance at 1500 RPM. It's quieter at 2000 RPM than 1500 by a LOT. I feel like I need to break up the long pipe run behind the X, but there is no room without causing even more ground clearance issues. Curious if anyone has found a way to deal with that. i've thought about cracking open the pipes and inserting those spirals about halfway between the X and the mufflers, but no idea if it would actually work or just make me feel better because i "did something"
One thing I'm finding more and more as i drive it and fine tune it, it's actually quieter and more pleasant to drive. When you get on it, it's still loud and angry of course, but cruising down the road in sixth, you'd hardly know it was pushing the kind of power it is. My warm idle Map readings are getting down to the 50's, it's perfectly happy at 850 rpm, and I was able to lighten up on the adaptive spark, so the idle is less lumpy. I might try backing off even more, just don't want to get the idle dips, so taking it small steps.
Very happy with the decision to go bigger motor. Either it's easier to tune or it's less sensitive to minor changes
Only "comfort" thing I'd like to change is this resonance at 1500 RPM. It's quieter at 2000 RPM than 1500 by a LOT. I feel like I need to break up the long pipe run behind the X, but there is no room without causing even more ground clearance issues. Curious if anyone has found a way to deal with that. i've thought about cracking open the pipes and inserting those spirals about halfway between the X and the mufflers, but no idea if it would actually work or just make me feel better because i "did something"
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 10,451
Likes: 1,873
From: My own internal universe
Kfx - thanks i will investigate!
Some more updates and weirdness. I hit the oil pan as described above in earlier post, and this time it leaked a quart overnight, so I took her out of service to swap oil pans. Went to put stock F bomb pan on and kept running into interference. Enter improved racing...
Ordered a holley 302-1 retrofit pan from them with their oil control baffle kit. A couple of notes -- it will NOT fit a F car with stock steering, and it requires a ls3 dip stick. Then the "while I am in there" bug bit so I got a crank scrapeur and windage tray as well. Pretty much went in without a hitch. Directions said some file fitting may be necessary but mine cleared without filing.
Second, lance at Pantera hooked me up with some 60# injectors. And holy ****. I mean I never would have believed that an injector swap would tame a cam, but it did. I can drive 20 mph in fourth with no throttle and no bucking, and then dig right out of it. When I first started it it sounded tamer, and quieter. As it warmed up it improved. Another thing. The fuel smell was all but gone. So, I do not know what lance did to these injectors, but I would almost swear this thing could smog!
In all it took four weeks to get everything completed due to travel and other needs superceding the car when I was home.
Bottom line for this update -- so much more pleasant to drive with no sacrifices in power per the butt dyno and tractionometer.
Some more updates and weirdness. I hit the oil pan as described above in earlier post, and this time it leaked a quart overnight, so I took her out of service to swap oil pans. Went to put stock F bomb pan on and kept running into interference. Enter improved racing...
Ordered a holley 302-1 retrofit pan from them with their oil control baffle kit. A couple of notes -- it will NOT fit a F car with stock steering, and it requires a ls3 dip stick. Then the "while I am in there" bug bit so I got a crank scrapeur and windage tray as well. Pretty much went in without a hitch. Directions said some file fitting may be necessary but mine cleared without filing.
Second, lance at Pantera hooked me up with some 60# injectors. And holy ****. I mean I never would have believed that an injector swap would tame a cam, but it did. I can drive 20 mph in fourth with no throttle and no bucking, and then dig right out of it. When I first started it it sounded tamer, and quieter. As it warmed up it improved. Another thing. The fuel smell was all but gone. So, I do not know what lance did to these injectors, but I would almost swear this thing could smog!
In all it took four weeks to get everything completed due to travel and other needs superceding the car when I was home.
Bottom line for this update -- so much more pleasant to drive with no sacrifices in power per the butt dyno and tractionometer.