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Thanks, I've read your build threads, my car is also a 71 that I converted to a 70. I took a lot of ideas from your original build. I see that you wanted more after the ls2 with the ls3 top end. Did you ever take the car to the track before you upgraded the engine?
No. I built this as a street car with autocross potential, but I just don’t have much extra time on my hands these days. I enjoy watching drag racing, but it’s not something I’d want to do, at least with this car anyway.
Do you have a build thread?
No. I built this as a street car with autocross potential, but I just don’t have much extra time on my hands these days. I enjoy watching drag racing, but it’s not something I’d want to do, at least with this car anyway.
Do you have a build thread?
Not on this site, I had one on the chevelle forum under the pro-touring section but I haven't updated that thread in awhile.
I made 475/473 with a bolt on ls3. It doesn’t take heads and cam to make that kind of power. Good thing about doing a serious bolt on set up is when you decide to pull the trigger you have all the supporting mods in place. My 2015 1LE went 11.5@120 at 3900 pounds race weight.
Another good thing about bolt-on only is that you don’t have to deal with the compromoses associated with cam upgrades. You can have much improved performance without the loss of idle quality and low end torque associated with cam upgrades. You also don’t lose fuel economy or generate higher emissions. It’s like stock, only better.
If GM says not to bore the LS2 block, then why do they sell oversized pistons for that engine?
They sell oversize pistons for 6.0L cast iron truck blocks, on which the LQ4 and LQ9 are based. They share the same displacement specs as the LS2, but the iron blocks have much thicker walls.
They sell oversize pistons for 6.0L cast iron truck blocks, on which the LQ4 and LQ9 are based. They share the same displacement specs as the LS2, but the iron blocks have much thicker walls.
These pistons could certainly be used for an LQ4/LQ9. But if they can’t be used in an LS2, then why will a GM dealership actually tell you they are available for the LS2? It seems like, if they couldn’t be safely used, they wouldn’t be considered an option by the dealership.
At the time they were specific to the LS2 and actually ONLY avail from gm in a .5mm oversize.
Gm also says dont bore a 5.3l block to ls1 size.
Maybe people are just "doin what they say cant be done"
I've decided to just build a stock stroke LS3 for now. I'm reusing the ls2 crank, lunati rods, and Mahle 2cc dome pistons. I'm going to 823 heads shaved .010 with a stock LS3 intake, I should be close to
I don't know 11.1 compression.
I should be picking up my engine from the machine shop soon. I'd like to have the bearings on hand when I take it to the builder. I've read that oem bearings seem to last longer than some of the aftermarket bearings. Which bearings should I run on a stock crank with forged rods?
I should be picking up my engine from the machine shop soon. I'd like to have the bearings on hand when I take it to the builder. I've read that oem bearings seem to last longer than some of the aftermarket bearings. Which bearings should I run on a stock crank with forged rods?
I built a similar engine recently. A L92 block, stock LS2 crank and rods, and JE SRP 4.070" pistons (4032 material). But I put LSX-LS7 heads on it and a way to big cam. I used "Engine Tech" bearings which are actually re-boxed King "A" series Aluminum bearings. They work well on a stock crank, better than your typical Clevite "H" series bearings. Just make sure you have a good oil pump to go with whatever you decide to build.
Engine is finished and ready to go, my builder pre lubed the engine with Eddie Gibbs break in oil. He told me to let the engine warm up to operating temp and then to shut it off and change the oil. And then to run regular oil after that to break the engine in.
02-22-2018 | 10:14 PM
