Audioslave1

Im just about to pull the trigger on buying the car shell and starting my new drag build. I have it planned as a heads, cam, intake, and nitrous ebay ls1 in a gutted s14. Im coming from a turbo car so I really want this one to be N/A and not stupid fast but a fast little car and was told the ls1 is gonna be topped out at 500whp with stock displacement if you're lucky so I added the nitrous to the list. But some guys said to just go ls3, that way I can get more power totally N/A. I've been pricing ls1's and seeing ones I like in my area for like $2k, which is nice since this will be a budget as possible build to an extent. But the problem is I cant find an ls3 under 5 or 6k, and most being 8k and above. So firstly, am I just finding overpriced ones or are ones yanked out of camaros 5k-9k? If a heads, cam, and intake ls3 is in another league than a heads, cam, intake ls1 I could justify spending 5k on an ls3 but thats just about the limit I would wanna drop on just on the engine. I guess im just asking what the normal price is for a good condition ebay/junkyard ls3 and if you ls3 guys would say its worth the extra cash for the better ls3.

G Atsma

You gotta know that any LS1 you find is going to be either worn out or rebuilt. Your talking about an engine last built in 2002. LS3's are a lot newer, and some are still low mileage. Plus being a larger AND better engine it WILL command a heftier price tag.

8.Lug

LS1 is pretty much a throw-away motor. Don't waste your time or money on one. The only reason they still command any kind of decent price is because n00b's and fanbois are like ZOMG LSJUAN!!!!!

Oh, and before G Atsma decides to try (and fail) to rebut yet another one of my posts:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/max-...for-ls-blocks/

G Atsma

Hot Rod is right. Thanks for bringing it up! See? I didn't have to rebut anything YOU said. Which I rarely do anyway, as you rarely have any real advice here. Mostly just sarcastic and insulting remarks. But that's just you....
BTW, it IS possible to build a "new" LS1 by boring a late aluminum 5.3 block out to 5.7 specs, as it can handle that much bore easily.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

I got a rebuilt LS1 - new pistons, bearings, etc, with a LS6 cam and mildly ported heads for $1,700 or $1,800. I think that's a pretty good deal. Time will tell.

As for 100K mile pullouts for 2 grand......??? Depends on what you want to do and how much you trust the seller. There are PLENTY of high mileage cars on here with significant mods. They are not all worn out or rebuilt, that is an ignorant blanket statement IMHO. A throw away motor? Condition and budget will dictate that.

The chances of hitting 500rwhp with an LS1 are slim. Has been done, but most cars seem to max out in the 450 range. You're gonna spend a S-load to get to 500, it's likely not worth it.

G Atsma

USUALLY if an 18-year old engine is out of the car, it ain't a spring chicken any more. Or it's been gone thru. Sure, there are SOME usable LS1's out there. But not a lot.
I wasn't making a blanket statement. It applies to the majority of cases we are talking about.

Audioslave1

Okay thanks guys Im gonna save some pennies and just go ls3, as it was pointed out its basically a bigger stronger ls1 and any ls3 will be much newer. Im still planning on aftermarket heads from texas speed, texas speed cam, and I really want to try that new Edelbrock cross ram for the ls3 but its pricey so ill most likely stick to the jegs 102mm intake thats on the list now. Ill hopefully be able to make some money back from selling the heads, cam, intake, and the wiring harness since im getting all that from aftermarket sources and wont need the stock ones.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Audioslave, there are still good LS1's and LS6 engines out there. I don't think the LS1/LS6 is the best starting point or a cost effective start point for a 500whp NA build.

The LS1 was installed in new cars for 2004 model year for the GTO & Corvette.​​​​ Last new LS1's in 2002 model for the fbody Camaro & Firebird. All of those are at least 14 years old. In many cases the components are twenty years old. Alternators, water pumps, power steering pumps, coil packs, wire harnesses all have wear and tear from age and mileage.

Some of the good LS1's are probably suitable for mild swap into a cars & truck to cruise aka 3rd Gen Camaro or Firebird.
450 whp can be fairly budget friendly

Shooting for 500+ NA it's good to have a 4 inch+ bore engine to works with like the LS2 or LS3. LS7 too but they tend to be expensive.

A lot of folks over look that the truck engine L92/L94 engine is very similar to an LS3. The accessories, intake, and a few other things are different than an LS3. Typically these newer truck engines resell for a lot less than an LS3. The L92/L94 engines usually need displacement on demand removed in order to build a high-performance engine. TSP sells a kit for that. The short block is good as is and the cylinder heads are basically the same as the LS3. Add a good cam, LS3 intake, maybe port the headed, long tube headers, tune and 500 whp is very do able.

I've seen the L92 type truck engines list for ~$3,800 or so sometimes less. That's not bad for a 6.2 liter engine that's less than ten years old etc.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Well there is something incorrect there in that article to rebuff, although it's not worded clearly. According to Steve at RED (and with his extensive history and knowledge of sleeving) he stated here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post17639337 that all LS blocks have cast in liners except the LS7 which has pressed in liners.

84FSP

iTrader: (3)

I just picked up a $1400 L76 (newer LS2) shortblock with 60K miles. It's doable - just hunt carefully.

handyandy496

iTrader: (9)

Yep If your pulling your 20,000 mile WS6/SS motor for an ls2 or 3 just toss it in a big old dumpster. It ain't worth ****. Great info moron! Hot Rod's a bad joke as well. If there that non concentric and it mattered half of them would have failed within the first 6 months of being on the road. The only real problem is with the rod bolts failing at over 6700 rpm. ) .020 is .010 per side. Two piece of paper thicknesses per side. Omg .010 less wall and my piston is going to just fall right through wall. What a joke! Thousands off guys have been running nitrous in these engines stock with the stock bolts since 1998. Some of them are dead now but there cars are still running. So no one is going to tell me that a 100 hp nitrous blast is going to hold in a stock engine and does, where an N/A engine having .010 of cast iron less on the wall will not.! I myself am constantly running well over 7100 rpm in a close to 600 hp 6.9 sec .030 over ls2 with a 4.1" stroke and have been for 5yrs now. Choke on that! Adding a 200 shot soon. I hope that keeps you up all night, and I still have my money in the bank. Paid 700 for the GTO short block. Sold the rotating assembly here for $300.00 so it really cost me only 4 bills. I'm a metallurgist and tool and die maker, Don't pull my chain Hot rod!

gonefishin1