G Atsma

Bill VA- If you want to keep low end power, you do NOT want to use that manifold. Runners are too short for low end response.
Keep the LS3 manifold. Form should always follow function. You drive with the hood closed with the engine running.
Either "Looks great but runs doggy", or "Runs great and looks OK".
Your choice....

Bill_VA

Thanks. So what about a mid-rise intake like that? The cool intake comparison video that Richard Holdener did was informative, but the dyno results were for 3000rpm and above. Too bad he didn't start down lower to give a better picture.

G Atsma

Long story short, the LS3 manifold is best all-around for flexibility.
Only the FAST makes a SLIGHT difference and stays strong on the low end.

bthomas

iTrader: (1)

And a rod mod ls3 intake will make more hp and tq than the fast102 to 6200rpm.

Summitracing

Folks,

We enjoy this discussion about the intakes but it's moved away from the Pro LS cams this thread is about. @Bill_VA feel free to create your own thread on the forum for the community to discuss. We'll likely join in on the conversation there.

Bill_VA

Looks like the "rod mod" isn't really all that great.

Bill_VA

You're right, sorry to hijack the thread.

Escalado

okay! So far ive installed the following

Volante dual scoop CAI
BBK 1-3/4” stainless steel headers with 3” off road y
magnaflow y pipe to flow master super 44 dual 2.5” exit
upgraded my 8.6” diff with helical locker and complete rebuild 3.73 geared
all new fuel lines, fuel pump, brake lines etc
swapped to the 12212156 2002 O/S
efans
dual batteries
145 amp alternator
also PKE remote start (cause why not)
multitudes of other body/interior mods/upgrades, truck is 100% rust free and painted satin black

im going to be swapping in an L33 in place of my LM7 (already own it, cheaper than buying a 6L)
What cam would be best? Still the 8728? I feel like the stated power band would work great still. Thoughts?

Also, what kind of ballpark HP/TQ numbers should I expect with this set up?

THANK YOU in advance

EDIT-I’m looking for the biggest power without having to do anything internal other than rods and springs, I don’t mind doing a converter as I’m going to swap a 4l80e when I do the cam swap, but I’m still going to be towing upwards of 7000lb so I need to keep that in mind

SIDENOTE- I’m going to do a 4l80e swap afterwards, but I need to swap the engine right away (broke 5 exhaust studs when installing headers, F**k my life lol. Since I need to basically pull the motor to fix, may as well swap it)

Summitracing

@Escalado,

Thanks for checking back in on the thread. The SUM-8728R1 will be an even better fit now with the L33. It will like the added compression and better heads. Plus, you've freed up the exhaust more which will help squeeze out more power and torque. As long as the L33 is in good condition you don't need to do anything internally to use the 8728R1. Go with the .600" lift beehives and follow our pushrod recommendation we previously mentioned. There's no way to 100% know a hp/tq gain without a dyno test before and after. However, with the L33, 8728R1, your bolt-ons, and a good custom tune, we could see this being in the 300+ rwhp range and 315+ rwtq range.

The 8728R1 will work just fine with your 3.73 gears and a stock converter. It would benefit from a 2,500+ stall converter but it's not required. With a stall converter, we would highly recommend an auxiliary transmission cooler.

Abs

I've also been thinking that another high lift truck cam or a dedicated stage 1 n/a cam could really be helpful. Something similar to the 8715 ghost cam but with a bit of a tighter lsa to help with torque down low. Maybe a 222/230, .600, .600 on a 112 which has 2 degrees of overlap. Something in that ballpark.

Personally I am considering a cam for my 5.7L ls1 GTO with an m6, ls6 intake, and 3.42 gears. I have shorty headers, high flow mids and a magnaflow CB with x pipe. The exhaust is 2.5" from front to back. I also have an over the radiator air intake. I would likely do a cam only swap in the short term and keep my 241 heads, but down the line, I might upgrade to ported 243 heads and long tube headers. I spend 90+% of my driving under 3000 rpms and I really liked the results of the 8720 in holdeners stage 2 turbo video, but all of his tests were on a 4.8L. I can't help but wonder if the results would change on a 5.7L and above. That test made the 8706 look almost worthless as the 8720 out performed it everywhere except the very top end.

Is there any chance @Summitracing was considering a cam similar to the one I mentioned any time soon? I saw posts back in 2019 where you guys talked about some custom cams, but I didn't know if you guys still did them. If not, do you think the 8720 would make sense for me?

Summitracing

@Abs,

Thanks for checking in on the thread. The cam you're describing is the SUM-8713R1 .550/.550, 222/232, 112+5 with 3* of overlap but with .600" lift instead of .550". There isn't a plan for a high-lift version of the 8713R1 anytime soon. You could go with the 8713R1 and get what you're after. You might be down 5-10 hp/tq at most being .550" vs. .600". If we're talking about a racecar dependent to put food on the table don't give up any hp/tq. However, that doesn't sound like that's the case here. Plus you could go with our budget-friendly LS6 Style springs.

Regarding the SUM-8715R1 with specs of .600/.575, 222/234, 115+3 with -2* of overlap. It was designed with a little later intake valve closing for top-end power. You could get our adjustable upper timing gear to advance the cam timing 2-4* bringing the powerband down more in your desired range. With the 8715R1 you would need our .600" lift beehives.

If an adjustable upper timing gear doesn't interest you look at the SUM-8720R1 you mentioned. Specs are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2 with -1* of overlap. Spec'd similar to the GM "Hot Cam" but with more aggressive yet safe lobes. We spec'd it with .600" lift to get that extra 5-10 hp/tq across the range. It would work great in a stockish 5.7 LS1 with an M6. Would you make more peak hp/tq with the 8715R1 you sure would. That brings us back to our comment about the use of this combo. The 8720R1 would come close to the 8715R1 at peak but be better on the low-end with its earlier IVC and later EVO. With what you're describing you're after we think this might be the way to go. It'll have a nice steady lope but be easy to tune and live with. You'll have a nice wide powerband making it a joy to row through the gears if you feel sporty. Pair it with our .600" lift beehives and it will be plenty happy!

This gives you three options. If you'd like to go down a rabbit hole of how we look at cams check out this article and our cam timing calculator.

Abs

this was perfect, thank you!

Utinator

Does Summit plan on designing stroker cams? It seems they have everything else. The big gun cams are close to other stroker cam specs, but they aren’t advertised as stroker cams.

Summitracing

Yes we didn’t label them as strokers because many will still choose them for high winding standard stroke engines. The main difference is we capped the stage 4’s to work with factory flat tops. The Big Guns require a flycut or aftermarket piston.

ls3fox

I have a 2015 2500 6.0 with a 6l90 it's all stock I don't plan on doing an exhuast as I don't want the noise was looking to do a cam swap was thinking about your 8728 cam do you think it would be a good fit

68Formula

A 2015 has direct injection, so the camshaft needs to have the lobe that drives the high pressure pump. The Summit LS series are designed to fit previous generation engines without fuel lobes.

ls3fox

No it's a 2500 with an l96 6.0 no direct injection

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

I can top that one…I bought a brand new 2020 2500 GMC savanah work van for the fleet. Got it home expecting to pop the hood and see the LT engine under there…nope. It’s got the last of the LS engines in it. It’s a 6 liter van. I was a little bummed for just a second.

Summitracing

Thanks for checking in on the thread for a cam recommendation. The SUM-8728R1 would be a good fit for a 2500 with the 6.0. Specs on it are .600/.585, 212/218, 110+3 with -5* of overlap. It'll have a steady lope and will require custom tuning. The 8728R1 will make great torque from 2,000 on up. It'll pull well to 6,500+ with .600" lift beehives. The 8728R1 will work with a stock exhaust and stock torque converter.

If you wanted to dial it back a bit the SUM-8719R1 would also be a good choice. Specs on it are .550/.550, 209/217, 112+1 with -11* of overlap. It'll dial the idle note down with its -7* intake valve opening VS. -1* for the 8728R1. This will have good torque off-idle with a strong mid-range and good top-end power. You can run it out to 6,500+ with budget-friendly LS6-style springs. This will also work with a stock exhaust and stock torque converter.

Either would be a good fit for a daily driver 3/4 ton truck with a 6.0. No matter the aftermarket 3-bolt cam you go with you'll need a VVT-Delete Kit.

Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Would the 8719 cam be usable without tuning? And would I be able to use it with a set of low mileage LS3 springs?
Truck is a 2006 2500 HD with a 6.0. Want to keep everything else stock.