Skirts or no skirts---LS Next?
Skirts or no skirts---LS Next? New race car motor collecting pieces to replace the 7 year old 416ci LS3. I have the skirted std block already but cant help to think the non-skirted one would be better for my needs. Part of me thinks the Canton or Stef oil pan with the PS kickouts and oil control is worth HP. But how much as compared to the oil smashing into the skirts at 8000 rpm. I have asked around a few places and cant seem to get any definitive answer. I am sure Dick Maskin wouldn't have made it if he didn't think it was worthwhile. Anyone have any real world results?
Oil pan has kickout pockets that collect the oil by way of baffles/trays and directs oil to sump quicker. Doesn't seen to whip the oil into a mist that creates windage.....from what the internet tells me
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Joined: Jun 2016
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Actual documentation, if it exists. The internet CAN be a good source, but only if there are multiple sources within the internet to check against each other. I lol'd because I thought of the oft-used term thrown about here, "internet wisdom" which is usually a sarcastic slur.
True, and reason I asked for real life experiences. Internet is chocked full of Internet engine builders. I see many Gen1 small block and BBC for that fact, with the same style of oil pans on well built, higher HP builds. If it didn't make some sort of a gain, a stock OEM pan would be used. Just trying to sort out the myths from the truths
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The skirtless block has been proven to make a little more power, because it opens up the bay to bay breathing “issues” that our standard skirted blocks “seem” to have. I’ve seen the dyno sheets and it’s worth a little. If your building an absolute max effort deal, and are looking for the last few hp, it’s a consideration. I personally like the skirted block, and the much stronger main webbing setup, vs. the splayed main cap setup that’s what, a 50-60 year old technology? I’d rather run a high quality dry sump system, and a good windage tray for oil/windage control, and keep my main bearings better supported. The rigidity of the LS platform is one of the reasons these engine last so long. If your drag racing, it’s a moot point however.
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From: Texas
Preacher Boy Gm Racing Thank you. Agree but dis Agree no , non skirted blocks don't make more HP TQ than Skirted blocks but i know I'm late. But as you can see in the year of 2024. Gm Ls Lt motors and Sbc BBC motors have proven themselves 10×70 over. Gm spent millions designing and testing building the replacer to the Gen 1, 2 Sbc BBC motors. They knew a factory 6 bolt main with 4 stright down and 2 cross drill bolts to stop crank from walking was far superior to the still great older Gm Sbc BBC motors. With the extra webbing, skirted blocks, close deck blocks, even to the lifter trays hold lifters up so unlike older Gm Sbc BBC motors the intake ECT don't have to cm off just front cover oil pump ECT can be done in driveway in no time with no special tools. And for that reason I'm not I don't advice nobody to shop with Dart and that's the problem with hot roding, no more person to person thoughts it's all followers vs personal hot rod common sense. In no way with how much abuse these factory cast motors been through an proven to be, I will ever go BK nore believe any 4 bolt main cap motor are stronger than Gm Ls design, yes the 4 bolt main splayed cap motors are very well strong but not when it cm to the GM LS Gen 3, 4 Lt motors.
Last edited by John Salary Jr.; Jan 27, 2024 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Needed to add Title