Originally Posted by JimMueller

As I come to the end of this project, please let me know if any of these thoughts are unreasonable: I was explicitly told that my labor was not to exceed $4000, and that was for 40 hours @ $100/hr (they normally charge $120/hr). This engine overhaul included things like polishing crank, cleaning valves, valve job, etc., although I was not provided a detailed list of what was included.

* The shop labor to measure the push rod lengths should be reduced or eliminated since they came up with incorrect lengths, short by about .100". I provided written instructions to them from Manton on how to come up with the correct lengths before they started the process. I spent 5-6 hours doing it myself at their shop for the final numbers. Or, give me a partial credit against my time to obtain the proper lengths.
* The block was sent to a machine shop to be bored to be compatible with the shops desired piston size, and for the block to be cleaned. After the block was returned, the rotating assembly was mocked up and deck clearance was measured, it was sent back to the machine shop for the deck to be milled to 0 deck. After the shop installed the rotating assembly again, they determined that their staff incorrectly diagnosed the rod bolt clearance as adequate. They needed to disassemble, massage the block, clean the block again, and reassemble. If that the clearance problem had been realized prior to the last time it was sent to the machine shop, the additional disassembly/reassembly/cleaning would not have had to be done. I'm fine with paying for the labor to massage the block, but this was done out of order and I should only pay for the time to massage the block, not to disassemble/reassemble/clean the block yet again.
* Valve job is supposed to be included in the initial quote. Shop owner had the machine shop perform the valve job, and add .030" shim to increase seat pressure without my prior approval (taking it from 140lbs to 150lbs). This information wasn't given to me until after the work had been done. I don't feel as I should pay extra for this since it wasn't pre-approved.
*Dash oil pressure gauge reporting high PSI (pegged above 80) and high when key on, engine off (40) after engine reinstall with a new sender, that issue was definitely not occurring with the old sender prior to teardown. I seem to recall being told that the old sender was damaged during teardown. My opinion is that if a another new OEM sender doesn't fix the issue, then the problem was caused after the vehicle was loaded onto the tow truck and I shouldn't have to pay for that labor to fix this issue. When I was there yesterday, they had the passenger kick panel removed like they were checking wires.

Appreciate any feedback.

Originally Posted by bortous

That is not a good camshaft specification for your type of engine. The EVO is a little too late and your intake and exhaust bias is not balanced.
Too biased to the intake side which will sacrifice your top end.
It's not taking advantage of the high compression or the cubes you have either/
Something like a 236/250 115 LSA+3 would work better and still drive pretty good in a 418 CID with 13 degrees of overlap.
IVO 6
IVC 50
EVO 63
EVC 7

Originally Posted by JimMueller

I appreciate the feedback, but three weeks have elapsed since I bought the cam and it's already installed... it's a little late now. I didn't think I had the time to order a custom cam at the time, so I had to pick something off the shelf. Hindsight being what it is, I would have had time. Oh, well, there's always next time.

Originally Posted by JimMueller

* Oil pressure problem was a bad ground
* #4 exhaust push rod hanging valve open, replaced push rod, now OK
* Thermostat gasket caused a leak after a second test drive, replaced gasket
* Test drive still felt like a miss was occurring, infrared gun shows #6 way too cold
* #6 injector harness wire damaged, spliced in new connector, now heat gun shows correct results
* The rear-end install I also paid them to do while the car was there (I already had the parts and planned for it to be the next maintenance item on the car when the engine issue popped up), is a bit noisy. Switched from (Eaton clutch based diff + OEM 3.73 gears + unknown fluid) to (TrueTrac + Motive Performance 3.73 gears + Redline 75W90NS fluid). Bought the gears and diff from Sam Strano, he said he runs the same gears and his are quiet. So it's a pissing match between product and installer as usual. But others have commented on the Motive Performance gears being noisier, and sometimes the TrueTrac clunking. (which I have not yet experienced). The shop did already adjust the shims after one of the test drives because the owner wasn't happy with it. I only rode in the car once during a test drive as a passenger, the rear end sound seemed to be a constant hum noise, not a wah-wah-wah nor a howl only on decel.
* Already had it's first oil & filter change. AC still needs to be charged
* Loaded initial calibration.
* Maybe the stars will align and I get the car back tomorrow

Originally Posted by bortous

Change your cam!

Originally Posted by JimMueller

I believe I've already addressed your concern.

Originally Posted by bortous

You have but I am certain the others in this post would agree this is the right way to go with the camshaft selection.

Originally Posted by bortous

Looks like your engine is a mess with all those issues.
I wish I could go over it for you.

Originally Posted by bortous

You have but I am certain the others in this post would agree this is the right way to go with the camshaft selection.

Originally Posted by JimMueller

I'm not sure why I have to repeat myself. If you had chimed in weeks ago when I was looking at cams, this would be beneficial feedback. The cam's not coming back out at this stage unless I tune it and I'm unhappy with the results. Thank you for your concern.