Need blower CAM grind recommendations
#41
Looks like they ground the 14 overlap one before I got a chance to update them with the 10 overlap cam - and actually, I'm totally content with this. :-)
Thanks again Bortous and Jake for chiming in with your invaluable input! Here's an update:
1) Cam is ground and shipped, arriving Saturday (I'll still be Out of town, wont return home until the 11th)
2) Machine shop has my engine torn down completely, they'll probably call me today to let me know what all went wrong
3) If I can get my engine back by the 13th or 14th, I'm hoping to throw the engine back in the following day
4) Dyno tune probably two weeks after engine is in, or sooner.
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks again Bortous and Jake for chiming in with your invaluable input! Here's an update:
1) Cam is ground and shipped, arriving Saturday (I'll still be Out of town, wont return home until the 11th)
2) Machine shop has my engine torn down completely, they'll probably call me today to let me know what all went wrong
3) If I can get my engine back by the 13th or 14th, I'm hoping to throw the engine back in the following day
4) Dyno tune probably two weeks after engine is in, or sooner.
Thanks,
Andy
All good. Make sure you use a good tuner because the more skilled he is, the better he will be able to make the vehicle drive.
Be sure to post the cam card in this thread.
I want to see
\
#42
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
My cam sheet is waiting for me at the house in Utah. I'll be back Monday evening, I'll be sure to post it 😉
Thanks again,
Andy
#45
#46
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Little update: The machine shop claims they'll have the engine ready for pickup by this Friday... Fingers crossed.
Any clue if I can get away with the same Pushrods? I know I know...I'll measure ;-)
But in theory, pushrod length with a cam swap only changes if the lift changes, right? (lift being .629/.615 like the previous)
Thanks,
Andy
#47
Thanks Bort - I am going to order a degree wheel. I think it would be worth to degree it in, vs Dot to Dot, opinions?
Little update: The machine shop claims they'll have the engine ready for pickup by this Friday... Fingers crossed.
Any clue if I can get away with the same Pushrods? I know I know...I'll measure ;-)
But in theory, pushrod length with a cam swap only changes if the lift changes, right? (lift being .629/.615 like the previous)
Thanks,
Andy
Little update: The machine shop claims they'll have the engine ready for pickup by this Friday... Fingers crossed.
Any clue if I can get away with the same Pushrods? I know I know...I'll measure ;-)
But in theory, pushrod length with a cam swap only changes if the lift changes, right? (lift being .629/.615 like the previous)
Thanks,
Andy
You should always degree it to ensure you have the right camshaft .
#49
I am not sure on the clearances.
On my engine I run a 5w50 and is very smooth. No issues.
I certainly would not run the factory recommendation as your engine is extensively modified,.
Have you asked your engine builder what he recommends?
#50
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Well to be fair, the machinist did mention that I'll be okay to use 5w30 if that's what I wanted to use.
He did mention I should switch to 10w40 once I go FI.
I was just wondering what people would run N/A given the clearances on the sheet.
Thanks,
Andy
#51
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Started the engine last night after the rebuild, with 5w30 oil full synthetic as mentioned by the machine shop - open headers. Chest thumping loud - as one would expect. Only kept it alive for 45 seconds before I turned it off - just wanted to do a quick crank/start before going to sleep and resting (I was exhausted) . For the 45 seconds or so it was alive:
1) Engine primed with 60 PSI oil shot through the primer plug
2) Cam lope sounded wonderful (to be fair the previous one did too, but it wasn't as lopey as this one was - my wideband sensor wasn't plugged, so I'm not currently sure of what the A/F was (part of the reason I didn't run it long)
3) Oil Pressure was through the roof - from what I can remember, it was *around* 60 psi in idle (I put 6 quarts of oil, as I always do) - I assume/hope this will drop back down once things are a little more "settled" and I actually let it idle for more than 45 seconds. The oil was obviously cold
4) Haven't even called the dyno yet, I will road tune it first - then take it to the dyno for WOT. I do however hope to give you some feedback on the feel of the car under WoT (I can tune WoT no problem, just not the timing...will be running safe timing to avoid any issues)
Thanks for reading,
Andy
1) Engine primed with 60 PSI oil shot through the primer plug
2) Cam lope sounded wonderful (to be fair the previous one did too, but it wasn't as lopey as this one was - my wideband sensor wasn't plugged, so I'm not currently sure of what the A/F was (part of the reason I didn't run it long)
3) Oil Pressure was through the roof - from what I can remember, it was *around* 60 psi in idle (I put 6 quarts of oil, as I always do) - I assume/hope this will drop back down once things are a little more "settled" and I actually let it idle for more than 45 seconds. The oil was obviously cold
4) Haven't even called the dyno yet, I will road tune it first - then take it to the dyno for WOT. I do however hope to give you some feedback on the feel of the car under WoT (I can tune WoT no problem, just not the timing...will be running safe timing to avoid any issues)
Thanks for reading,
Andy
#52
Started the engine last night after the rebuild, with 5w30 oil full synthetic as mentioned by the machine shop - open headers. Chest thumping loud - as one would expect. Only kept it alive for 45 seconds before I turned it off - just wanted to do a quick crank/start before going to sleep and resting (I was exhausted) . For the 45 seconds or so it was alive:
1) Engine primed with 60 PSI oil shot through the primer plug
2) Cam lope sounded wonderful (to be fair the previous one did too, but it wasn't as lopey as this one was - my wideband sensor wasn't plugged, so I'm not currently sure of what the A/F was (part of the reason I didn't run it long)
3) Oil Pressure was through the roof - from what I can remember, it was *around* 60 psi in idle (I put 6 quarts of oil, as I always do) - I assume/hope this will drop back down once things are a little more "settled" and I actually let it idle for more than 45 seconds. The oil was obviously cold
4) Haven't even called the dyno yet, I will road tune it first - then take it to the dyno for WOT. I do however hope to give you some feedback on the feel of the car under WoT (I can tune WoT no problem, just not the timing...will be running safe timing to avoid any issues)
Thanks for reading,
Andy
1) Engine primed with 60 PSI oil shot through the primer plug
2) Cam lope sounded wonderful (to be fair the previous one did too, but it wasn't as lopey as this one was - my wideband sensor wasn't plugged, so I'm not currently sure of what the A/F was (part of the reason I didn't run it long)
3) Oil Pressure was through the roof - from what I can remember, it was *around* 60 psi in idle (I put 6 quarts of oil, as I always do) - I assume/hope this will drop back down once things are a little more "settled" and I actually let it idle for more than 45 seconds. The oil was obviously cold
4) Haven't even called the dyno yet, I will road tune it first - then take it to the dyno for WOT. I do however hope to give you some feedback on the feel of the car under WoT (I can tune WoT no problem, just not the timing...will be running safe timing to avoid any issues)
Thanks for reading,
Andy
You did pick the most aggressive camshaft recommendation!
Make you sure you get a full tune and dyno run and post a dyno sheet for us to see,
I want to see how it goes.
#54
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
#56
A camshaft was specified with much less overlap however Andy wanted something more aggressive and was adamant about the idle.
My first choice would have been the smallest specification but the OP wanted something more focused in the mid-top end rpm range and that's what he got.
Don't forge with a 427 6 degrees of overlap would sound like stock.
10 degrees, would be mild
14 degrees would be a bit more than mild.
He will make crazy mid and top end power though....
#58
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
However, 14deg of overlap on a 427 is easy to tune with 0 surging/bucking. Drivability in this case, won't suffer.
Also, I'm doing this for enjoyment. For me, the biggest part of this enjoyment, is the way my car scares people when idling ;-)
It's an F1X - no matter how much pressure I let out the gas pipe, 800whp will be easily attainable, which is all I'm really shooting for once the blower goes on.
#59
The OP was aware of this and wanted options.
He received them, asked questions and settled on the biggest camshaft knowing what to expect.
14 degrees of overlap will drive quite well in a 427 with cathedral heads with a good tune.
This is not a worry.
#60
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
That is technically all correct, no doubt.
However, 14deg of overlap on a 427 is easy to tune with 0 surging/bucking. Drivability in this case, won't suffer.
Also, I'm doing this for enjoyment. For me, the biggest part of this enjoyment, is the way my car scares people when idling ;-)
It's an F1X - no matter how much pressure I let out the gas pipe, 800whp will be easily attainable, which is all I'm really shooting for once the blower goes on.
However, 14deg of overlap on a 427 is easy to tune with 0 surging/bucking. Drivability in this case, won't suffer.
Also, I'm doing this for enjoyment. For me, the biggest part of this enjoyment, is the way my car scares people when idling ;-)
It's an F1X - no matter how much pressure I let out the gas pipe, 800whp will be easily attainable, which is all I'm really shooting for once the blower goes on.