bortous

Ok, so you ended up going for the bigger stick.
All good. Make sure you use a good tuner because the more skilled he is, the better he will be able to make the vehicle drive.
Be sure to post the cam card in this thread.
I want to see
\

AndyTA

Good morning Bort,

My cam sheet is waiting for me at the house in Utah. I'll be back Monday evening, I'll be sure to post it 😉

Thanks again,
Andy

bortous

Cool. Look forward to seeing it

AndyTA

bortous

Good job Andy,
Looks good.
Will have to be degreed and installed straight in.
Look forward to hear your thoughts on how the engine performs once it's all back together.

AndyTA

Thanks Bort - I am going to order a degree wheel. I think it would be worth to degree it in, vs Dot to Dot, opinions?

Little update: The machine shop claims they'll have the engine ready for pickup by this Friday... Fingers crossed.
Any clue if I can get away with the same Pushrods? I know I know...I'll measure ;-)
But in theory, pushrod length with a cam swap only changes if the lift changes, right? (lift being .629/.615 like the previous)

Thanks,
Andy

bortous

Of course.
You should always degree it to ensure you have the right camshaft .

AndyTA

I'm installing the engine in this Saturday. By the way, how do these clearances look? Are they acceptable?

What weight of oil should I use?

Thanks,
Andy

bortous

Hi Andy,
I am not sure on the clearances.
On my engine I run a 5w50 and is very smooth. No issues.
I certainly would not run the factory recommendation as your engine is extensively modified,.
Have you asked your engine builder what he recommends?

AndyTA

Hey Bort,
Well to be fair, the machinist did mention that I'll be okay to use 5w30 if that's what I wanted to use.

He did mention I should switch to 10w40 once I go FI.

I was just wondering what people would run N/A given the clearances on the sheet.

Thanks,
Andy

AndyTA

Started the engine last night after the rebuild, with 5w30 oil full synthetic as mentioned by the machine shop - open headers. Chest thumping loud - as one would expect. Only kept it alive for 45 seconds before I turned it off - just wanted to do a quick crank/start before going to sleep and resting (I was exhausted) . For the 45 seconds or so it was alive:

1) Engine primed with 60 PSI oil shot through the primer plug
2) Cam lope sounded wonderful (to be fair the previous one did too, but it wasn't as lopey as this one was - my wideband sensor wasn't plugged, so I'm not currently sure of what the A/F was (part of the reason I didn't run it long)
3) Oil Pressure was through the roof - from what I can remember, it was *around* 60 psi in idle (I put 6 quarts of oil, as I always do) - I assume/hope this will drop back down once things are a little more "settled" and I actually let it idle for more than 45 seconds. The oil was obviously cold
4) Haven't even called the dyno yet, I will road tune it first - then take it to the dyno for WOT. I do however hope to give you some feedback on the feel of the car under WoT (I can tune WoT no problem, just not the timing...will be running safe timing to avoid any issues)

Thanks for reading,
Andy

bortous

Good to hear you like cam lope.
You did pick the most aggressive camshaft recommendation!
Make you sure you get a full tune and dyno run and post a dyno sheet for us to see,
I want to see how it goes.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Did I miss it or does this 427 still have a centrifugal on it? 10-15* of overlap was spec'd for a centrifugal blower car?

AndyTA

427 with a blower that will go on soon - technically, a centri will make power with big overlap, where turbo wouldn't.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

What's the oil pump?

Did you have the 427 running before? Have you changed anything other than the cam?

I have 60+psi cold. Hell I have 55psi hot on my 5.7L with an LS4 pump.

bortous

This is the engine.

A camshaft was specified with much less overlap however Andy wanted something more aggressive and was adamant about the idle.

My first choice would have been the smallest specification but the OP wanted something more focused in the mid-top end rpm range and that's what he got.
Don't forge with a 427 6 degrees of overlap would sound like stock.
10 degrees, would be mild
14 degrees would be a bit more than mild.
He will make crazy mid and top end power though....

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Sure you'll make power, but it'll take you more boost to do it since you're dumping boost out the tailpipe. You could have made the same or more boost=more power with a cam with less overlap that drove better.

AndyTA

That is technically all correct, no doubt.

However, 14deg of overlap on a 427 is easy to tune with 0 surging/bucking. Drivability in this case, won't suffer.
Also, I'm doing this for enjoyment. For me, the biggest part of this enjoyment, is the way my car scares people when idling ;-)

It's an F1X - no matter how much pressure I let out the gas pipe, 800whp will be easily attainable, which is all I'm really shooting for once the blower goes on.

bortous

I agree. He will lose boost but will make more power. It's a give an take. Having 0 degrees of overlap means no loss of boost but you sacrifice power.
The OP was aware of this and wanted options.
He received them, asked questions and settled on the biggest camshaft knowing what to expect.
14 degrees of overlap will drive quite well in a 427 with cathedral heads with a good tune.
This is not a worry.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I guess I was looking at some other factors. You can make a car sound like whatever you want with tuning.....I can make a stock cam lope. The other point is that you'll have to run a smaller pulley to achieve the same amount of boost of a cam with lesser overlap, making it more prone to belt slip. Sure, you can make 800whp at a given boost with this cam. What happens if you could have made 900whp at the same boost with a cam that had less overlap? Either way, was just confirming the setup when I glanced through the thread. It's your build, enjoy it!