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ls3 new stroker issue

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Old May 10, 2019 | 05:47 PM
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Thumbs up ls3 new stroker issue

got my ls3 took to the machine shop. had all the machine work measuring etc done.
ordered all the parts and gaskets they said i will need to button it up.
btw not my first ls been building em for 15 years.
but first stroker
went to hookup converter and noticed motor only went 180 side to side
never a full rotation
took it out tore it down
im down to crank pistons rods mains cam and lifters. no heads or oil pump no timing chain either.
motor still locks at 180 either way.
never spun under a starter only by hand.

please help. i about to rip apart the pistons and rods. im at a loss.
-Thanks-
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Old May 10, 2019 | 06:41 PM
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I've zero experience with LS strokers, but back when I built small block ford strokers, you always had to grind half-moon reliefs into the cylinder skirts to make room for rod bolt heads to swing by...
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme
I've zero experience with LS strokers, but back when I built small block ford strokers, you always had to grind half-moon reliefs into the cylinder skirts to make room for rod bolt heads to swing by...
Seems plausible, but hard for me to believe that this didn’t get caught on the second or third rod assembly that got installed on the crank during short block build.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Seems plausible, but hard for me to believe that this didn’t get caught on the second or third rod assembly that got installed on the crank during short block build.
Was thinking same...

But obviously he's got something hitting...
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme
Was thinking same...

But obviously he's got something hitting...
Im not arguing. I think your prolly right.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:20 PM
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i know what you guys are saying. what i remember is possible that i only went back and forth never a full rotation.
Or that something fell in there and only locks in that range.
will do more tear down tomorrow and post results.
thanks.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:21 PM
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Check the cam retainer plate bolts. If they’re too long, they can hit the counterweights and stop the engine from turning just like what you’re describing. Rod bolts htting the block is another possiblity but you would get more than 180 degrees of rotation. Rods could be hitting the windage tray too, but I would think there would be a lot less than 180 degrees.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Check the cam retainer plate bolts. If they’re too long, they can hit the counterweights and stop the engine from turning just like what you’re describing. Rod bolts htting the block is another possiblity but you would get more than 180 degrees of rotation. Rods could be hitting the windage tray too, but I would think there would be a lot less than 180 degrees.
Yup. There’s wrong bolts in places. That’s my guess too.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Check the cam retainer plate bolts. If they’re too long, they can hit the counterweights and stop the engine from turning just like what you’re describing. Rod bolts htting the block is another possiblity but you would get more than 180 degrees of rotation. Rods could be hitting the windage tray too, but I would think there would be a lot less than 180 degrees.

I think your onto something.
to verify this i went to the garage took the cam out and it rotates freely.
it wasnt the cam retainer or those bolts.
think since its is a 598 lift cam it was off, as in wrong stroke.
how do i set that correctly. to make sure im on the correct stroke and then align the dots.
thanks guys....
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:56 PM
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Set the crank sprocket dot straight up, then put the chain and cam sprocket on with the cam sprocket dot at the bottom. Done!
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Old May 11, 2019 | 12:03 PM
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On the stroker builds some time the rear piston if not build for a stroker application the skirt in the back will hit and it has to be notched is not a whole lot is just to clear, turn the crank slow looking at number 8 piston and you'll see it.

Some manufacturers notch one piston and mark it to be use only in the back for this purpose.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Set the crank sprocket dot straight up, then put the chain and cam sprocket on with the cam sprocket dot at the bottom. Done!
That may work but it's a lot easier to line it up with the cam gear set at 6 O'clock (straight down) and the Crank gear at 12 O'clock (straight up) It's much easier to be sure you're not off a tooth.

You seem to have found your problem but another area that can cause a clearance issue is the windage tray.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CAMSTER
On the stroker builds some time the rear piston if not build for a stroker application the skirt in the back will hit and it has to be notched is not a whole lot is just to clear, turn the crank slow looking at number 8 piston and you'll see it.

Some manufacturers notch one piston and mark it to be use only in the back for this purpose.
I be willing to bet it's this...…^^^^
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Old May 11, 2019 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
That may work but it's a lot easier to line it up with the cam gear set at 6 O'clock (straight down) and the Crank gear at 12 O'clock (straight up) It's much easier to be sure you're not off a tooth.
Isn't that what I said? In different words....
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Old May 11, 2019 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dually681
got my ls3 took to the machine shop. had all the machine work measuring etc done.
ordered all the parts and gaskets they said i will need to button it up.
btw not my first ls been building em for 15 years.
but first stroker
went to hookup converter and noticed motor only went 180 side to side
never a full rotation
took it out tore it down
im down to crank pistons rods mains cam and lifters. no heads or oil pump no timing chain either.
motor still locks at 180 either way.
never spun under a starter only by hand.

please help. i about to rip apart the pistons and rods. im at a loss.
-Thanks-
Sounds to me like they either didn't stroker clearance the cylinders for the rod bolt to pass or possibly your windage tray does not have enough clearance for the crank throw.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 05:25 PM
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SOLVED
it was 2 things one which was mentioned last night.
Been putting it back together and spinning it at each phase.
All good.
1.It was the cam plate bolts one was too long and locked the crank at oint to point as previously described.
2. windage tray needed to be spaced out has some rub on 3,5,7. not enough to lock like the cam plate bolt but enough to mark the tray and spacing it with 2 stainless washers per hole was enough.
Thank you guys for all the input and help.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 06:16 PM
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For reference, thats why we include brand new shorter bolts with our house brand cam retainer plates. They are also hex head instead of torx.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Isn't that what I said? In different words....
I may have misread your post lol
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Old May 12, 2019 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dually681
SOLVED
it was 2 things one which was mentioned last night.
Been putting it back together and spinning it at each phase.
All good.
1.It was the cam plate bolts one was too long and locked the crank at oint to point as previously described.
2. windage tray needed to be spaced out has some rub on 3,5,7. not enough to lock like the cam plate bolt but enough to mark the tray and spacing it with 2 stainless washers per hole was enough.
Thank you guys for all the input and help.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Glad to see you got it figured out. Those are easy mistakes to make.
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