500mi oil filter inspection ?'s
05-27-2019 | 05:37 PM
#1
500mi oil filter inspection ?'s Obviously a new motor will have some flakes and such trapped in the pleats, but what would be considered excessive? I just changed my oil and inspected the filter, and it seems like quite a bit to me.
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DualQuadDave (02-10-2021)
05-27-2019 | 07:35 PM
#4
Filter was cut cut open with tin snips
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02-10-2021 | 09:17 PM
#9
How many changes has it had so far? Is this the first, second or even third? If it's first, it's passable, barely. Second change, pull the motor. That's a lot for a second. Oil pressure seems low at idle. What oil are you using?
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G Atsma (02-11-2021)
08-31-2021 | 08:59 AM
#11
Yeah engine was pretty much done. couldn't get the rebuilder to give me a spec they set it at... hemmed and hawed about till telling me best he could remember was two and a half to 3. "ok 2.5-3 what? thou? hundreds?..."
that and after taking a profilometer to the cylinders and the ra was all over the place and way out of spec, I decided that car/engine was a sinking ship and bailed. Shop I was using at the time called like 3mo later... "Hey were using a different machine shop now, If you want we can redo your engine for a 3rd time for $$$ again" "sorry that's not warranty in our opinion"
that and after taking a profilometer to the cylinders and the ra was all over the place and way out of spec, I decided that car/engine was a sinking ship and bailed. Shop I was using at the time called like 3mo later... "Hey were using a different machine shop now, If you want we can redo your engine for a 3rd time for $$$ again" "sorry that's not warranty in our opinion"
08-31-2021 | 09:43 AM
#12
Yeah engine was pretty much done. couldn't get the rebuilder to give me a spec they set it at... hemmed and hawed about till telling me best he could remember was two and a half to 3. "ok 2.5-3 what? thou? hundreds?..."
that and after taking a profilometer to the cylinders and the ra was all over the place and way out of spec, I decided that car/engine was a sinking ship and bailed. Shop I was using at the time called like 3mo later... "Hey were using a different machine shop now, If you want we can redo your engine for a 3rd time for $$$ again" "sorry that's not warranty in our opinion"
that and after taking a profilometer to the cylinders and the ra was all over the place and way out of spec, I decided that car/engine was a sinking ship and bailed. Shop I was using at the time called like 3mo later... "Hey were using a different machine shop now, If you want we can redo your engine for a 3rd time for $$$ again" "sorry that's not warranty in our opinion"
And then there are shops like you used that don’t machine in house and farm out the work. That’s a crap shoot if they are in the middle of a machine shop change for a variety of reasons. Bottom line here is, if you find a good shop stick with them. Form a good working relationship with the head machinist(s) and if they leave, call them and ask why. If the shop closes, follow the good machinists to their next shop and ask them how they like it over there.
Often times guys will post up here on Tech and ask about a reputable shop in their area, just to see who knows what…
Appreciate you updating the thread by the way!
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Old Buzzard (08-31-2021)
08-31-2021 | 05:24 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 752
I LOVE to rebuild motors too, myself.
Which is AHELLUVALOT DIFFERENT from advising someone else to do the same.
A hobbyist needs to PARTICIPATE in the hobby HIMSELF. (or herself, as the case may be; should I say itself?) Pretending to have a "hobby" (fast cars) where you PAY SOMEBODY ELSE (shop) to participate FOR YOU, is worthless.
Most of the posts on here about "rebuild motor" are from people who have never rebuilt one at all, or whose experience is LONG obsolete. I well recall the 283s and 327s that would come my way in my early days in this hobby; they'd have a .030" ridge at the top of the rings after 100k miles which was about all a motor was good for back then. Cork gaskets would take it down if nothing else. We'd call blocks like that "Powerglided" because we thought that's what it was. Turns out all these years later, it wasn't the Powerglide at all; it was THE CARBURETOR. The 2G was the worst of the familiar ones but many others were just about as bad. Just the other day I saw a 67 Malibu desert field find; the PERFECT grandpa car; 60 some k miles if memory serves, 4-door, Turbo-Thrift 250 6-cyl, 3-on-the-tree with overdrive, no power anything, no AC, no nothing, just ... yerbasic ... CAR. He had rebuilt the carb, and I trust that he's knowledgeable about such things; it still had a sooty idle. I bet if it stays like that, it'll blue-smoke like a freight train by 100k, for "rings" we would all say, but actually bore wear.
Be all that as it may, short blocks don't wear out the way they used to, if people merely change the oil anywhere near regularly, and if they don't develop the Castech head casting problem. There's no reason NOT to just plop another junker in, instead of futzing with "rebuild", if the intended end product is within reasonable sight of "stock" (let's say, no forced induction, street driven exclusively except maybe a weekend or 2 a year at the strip); nothing "rebuild" can do is going to make it any better or more reliable than stock. For that matter, even if it's been Casteched, a turned crank and set of bearings will nearly always bring it back to life. And a set of heads too of course.
It's all about SUITABILITY FOR PURPOSE, and wise use of money, and avoiding risk. For a great majority of the people that start out asking about rebuilds, a junkyard short block truly IS the best way to go. This post is the perfect example of WHY that's true.
Which is AHELLUVALOT DIFFERENT from advising someone else to do the same.
A hobbyist needs to PARTICIPATE in the hobby HIMSELF. (or herself, as the case may be; should I say itself?) Pretending to have a "hobby" (fast cars) where you PAY SOMEBODY ELSE (shop) to participate FOR YOU, is worthless.
Most of the posts on here about "rebuild motor" are from people who have never rebuilt one at all, or whose experience is LONG obsolete. I well recall the 283s and 327s that would come my way in my early days in this hobby; they'd have a .030" ridge at the top of the rings after 100k miles which was about all a motor was good for back then. Cork gaskets would take it down if nothing else. We'd call blocks like that "Powerglided" because we thought that's what it was. Turns out all these years later, it wasn't the Powerglide at all; it was THE CARBURETOR. The 2G was the worst of the familiar ones but many others were just about as bad. Just the other day I saw a 67 Malibu desert field find; the PERFECT grandpa car; 60 some k miles if memory serves, 4-door, Turbo-Thrift 250 6-cyl, 3-on-the-tree with overdrive, no power anything, no AC, no nothing, just ... yerbasic ... CAR. He had rebuilt the carb, and I trust that he's knowledgeable about such things; it still had a sooty idle. I bet if it stays like that, it'll blue-smoke like a freight train by 100k, for "rings" we would all say, but actually bore wear.
Be all that as it may, short blocks don't wear out the way they used to, if people merely change the oil anywhere near regularly, and if they don't develop the Castech head casting problem. There's no reason NOT to just plop another junker in, instead of futzing with "rebuild", if the intended end product is within reasonable sight of "stock" (let's say, no forced induction, street driven exclusively except maybe a weekend or 2 a year at the strip); nothing "rebuild" can do is going to make it any better or more reliable than stock. For that matter, even if it's been Casteched, a turned crank and set of bearings will nearly always bring it back to life. And a set of heads too of course.
It's all about SUITABILITY FOR PURPOSE, and wise use of money, and avoiding risk. For a great majority of the people that start out asking about rebuilds, a junkyard short block truly IS the best way to go. This post is the perfect example of WHY that's true.
08-31-2021 | 06:16 PM
#14
I LOVE to rebuild motors too, myself.
Which is AHELLUVALOT DIFFERENT from advising someone else to do the same.
A hobbyist needs to PARTICIPATE in the hobby HIMSELF. (or herself, as the case may be; should I say itself?) Pretending to have a "hobby" (fast cars) where you PAY SOMEBODY ELSE (shop) to participate FOR YOU, is worthless.
Most of the posts on here about "rebuild motor" are from people who have never rebuilt one at all, or whose experience is LONG obsolete. I well recall the 283s and 327s that would come my way in my early days in this hobby; they'd have a .030" ridge at the top of the rings after 100k miles which was about all a motor was good for back then. Cork gaskets would take it down if nothing else. We'd call blocks like that "Powerglided" because we thought that's what it was. Turns out all these years later, it wasn't the Powerglide at all; it was THE CARBURETOR. The 2G was the worst of the familiar ones but many others were just about as bad. Just the other day I saw a 67 Malibu desert field find; the PERFECT grandpa car; 60 some k miles if memory serves, 4-door, Turbo-Thrift 250 6-cyl, 3-on-the-tree with overdrive, no power anything, no AC, no nothing, just ... yerbasic ... CAR. He had rebuilt the carb, and I trust that he's knowledgeable about such things; it still had a sooty idle. I bet if it stays like that, it'll blue-smoke like a freight train by 100k, for "rings" we would all say, but actually bore wear.
Be all that as it may, short blocks don't wear out the way they used to, if people merely change the oil anywhere near regularly, and if they don't develop the Castech head casting problem. There's no reason NOT to just plop another junker in, instead of futzing with "rebuild", if the intended end product is within reasonable sight of "stock" (let's say, no forced induction, street driven exclusively except maybe a weekend or 2 a year at the strip); nothing "rebuild" can do is going to make it any better or more reliable than stock. For that matter, even if it's been Casteched, a turned crank and set of bearings will nearly always bring it back to life. And a set of heads too of course.
It's all about SUITABILITY FOR PURPOSE, and wise use of money, and avoiding risk. For a great majority of the people that start out asking about rebuilds, a junkyard short block truly IS the best way to go. This post is the perfect example of WHY that's true.
Which is AHELLUVALOT DIFFERENT from advising someone else to do the same.
A hobbyist needs to PARTICIPATE in the hobby HIMSELF. (or herself, as the case may be; should I say itself?) Pretending to have a "hobby" (fast cars) where you PAY SOMEBODY ELSE (shop) to participate FOR YOU, is worthless.
Most of the posts on here about "rebuild motor" are from people who have never rebuilt one at all, or whose experience is LONG obsolete. I well recall the 283s and 327s that would come my way in my early days in this hobby; they'd have a .030" ridge at the top of the rings after 100k miles which was about all a motor was good for back then. Cork gaskets would take it down if nothing else. We'd call blocks like that "Powerglided" because we thought that's what it was. Turns out all these years later, it wasn't the Powerglide at all; it was THE CARBURETOR. The 2G was the worst of the familiar ones but many others were just about as bad. Just the other day I saw a 67 Malibu desert field find; the PERFECT grandpa car; 60 some k miles if memory serves, 4-door, Turbo-Thrift 250 6-cyl, 3-on-the-tree with overdrive, no power anything, no AC, no nothing, just ... yerbasic ... CAR. He had rebuilt the carb, and I trust that he's knowledgeable about such things; it still had a sooty idle. I bet if it stays like that, it'll blue-smoke like a freight train by 100k, for "rings" we would all say, but actually bore wear.
Be all that as it may, short blocks don't wear out the way they used to, if people merely change the oil anywhere near regularly, and if they don't develop the Castech head casting problem. There's no reason NOT to just plop another junker in, instead of futzing with "rebuild", if the intended end product is within reasonable sight of "stock" (let's say, no forced induction, street driven exclusively except maybe a weekend or 2 a year at the strip); nothing "rebuild" can do is going to make it any better or more reliable than stock. For that matter, even if it's been Casteched, a turned crank and set of bearings will nearly always bring it back to life. And a set of heads too of course.
It's all about SUITABILITY FOR PURPOSE, and wise use of money, and avoiding risk. For a great majority of the people that start out asking about rebuilds, a junkyard short block truly IS the best way to go. This post is the perfect example of WHY that's true.
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G Atsma (08-31-2021)
08-31-2021 | 07:51 PM
#15
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 752
It's 2021. The economics and lots of other things about a "rebuild" are VERY DIFFERENT from when you or I did our first "rebuilds".
And yes, you're right: when I think back on my first engine rebuild, I cringe. I did just about everything wrong that could be done wrong. I don't even want to go back and list all the STOOOOOPID crap I did to that old thing. However, that 283 with cast pistons and double-hump heads and the old "30-30" solid cam and a Muncie 4-speed and 3.73 gears, WHUPPED UP ON no telling how many cars. That thing would burn the tires on a clutch dump in 1st gear at 60 mph. Back in the 70s, when I was a DJ on a college kind of bring-your-own-record radio station on the Saturday midnight to Sunday 2AM shift (because I was the engineer that kept it on the air and could therefore pick whatever shift I wanted), and played the acidest acid rock I could get my hands on, and wore my hair down past my belt and my beard to my belly button. Great times.
Butt, it's 2021 now. Gotta move on and adapt to conditions on the ground as they are now, not be nostalgic for how they were back then, or try to give ADVICE (a very different thing from what you or I would do ourselves) to someone with that sinking feeling in the pit of their stomach as they look at CHUNKS in their oil filter they just pulled off of their freshly "rebuilt" motor. What I'd do, and what I'd tell somebody else to do based on their circumstances, aren't always the same thing.
The FACT remains, for somebody that just wants their car to work, a junkyard short block is a FAR more economical approach, in 2021. People that want to take the risk of what's in those photos up there, and want to develop their BUILDING skills, that's a totally different matter. I'm not getting that feeling from the OP. All the subtext written in all the white space all around what he typed tells me, he just wants his car to work, not to become an engine builder. 2 VERY DIFFERENT things.
And yes, you're right: when I think back on my first engine rebuild, I cringe. I did just about everything wrong that could be done wrong. I don't even want to go back and list all the STOOOOOPID crap I did to that old thing. However, that 283 with cast pistons and double-hump heads and the old "30-30" solid cam and a Muncie 4-speed and 3.73 gears, WHUPPED UP ON no telling how many cars. That thing would burn the tires on a clutch dump in 1st gear at 60 mph. Back in the 70s, when I was a DJ on a college kind of bring-your-own-record radio station on the Saturday midnight to Sunday 2AM shift (because I was the engineer that kept it on the air and could therefore pick whatever shift I wanted), and played the acidest acid rock I could get my hands on, and wore my hair down past my belt and my beard to my belly button. Great times.
Butt, it's 2021 now. Gotta move on and adapt to conditions on the ground as they are now, not be nostalgic for how they were back then, or try to give ADVICE (a very different thing from what you or I would do ourselves) to someone with that sinking feeling in the pit of their stomach as they look at CHUNKS in their oil filter they just pulled off of their freshly "rebuilt" motor. What I'd do, and what I'd tell somebody else to do based on their circumstances, aren't always the same thing.
The FACT remains, for somebody that just wants their car to work, a junkyard short block is a FAR more economical approach, in 2021. People that want to take the risk of what's in those photos up there, and want to develop their BUILDING skills, that's a totally different matter. I'm not getting that feeling from the OP. All the subtext written in all the white space all around what he typed tells me, he just wants his car to work, not to become an engine builder. 2 VERY DIFFERENT things.
09-01-2021 | 12:23 AM
#16
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
For a guys with little to no experience,, another option is buy like a ATK reman and just do a cam swap. minimizes time and $$ they have some fair deals through some of the regular hot car suppliers. Then buy basic tools and take their time and rebuild the broken motor for practice, now they have a fairly safe start..