Ls2 408 stroker
So, who shot JR? Was it the clown? Was it the lifters? Oil pump? A cam bearing that was dissed in a previous episode? Scurrilous knave that did the assembly? Damn the horrrraaaah..
Seriously, hope the OP gets this one lined out. He's been through too much.
Seriously, hope the OP gets this one lined out. He's been through too much.
Originally Posted by old motorhead
So, who shot JR? Was it the clown? Was it the lifters? Oil pump? A cam bearing that was dissed in a previous episode? Scurrilous knave that did the assembly? Damn the horrrraaaah..
Seriously, hope the OP gets this one lined out. He's been through too much.
Seriously, hope the OP gets this one lined out. He's been through too much.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
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So just to confirm, which lifters went in the engine this time around? Still seems a bit too convenient for me that all Bort did was swap lifters/camshaft and lost his oil pressure.
Psicko.. chill pill ****. When it is proven beyond doubt the solid lifters aren't causing the oil pressure issue, I will apologize for my comment about the morels.
If it were mine...... previously used hydraulic roller cam/lifters straight back in the engine.. touch nothing else.. irrefutable result if it is being caused by something other than the new solid cam/lifters swap. To me testing another set of solid lifters from someone elses engine isn't enough. Maybe the other persons oil pump was creating a higher pressure to begin with.
Psicko.. chill pill ****. When it is proven beyond doubt the solid lifters aren't causing the oil pressure issue, I will apologize for my comment about the morels.
If it were mine...... previously used hydraulic roller cam/lifters straight back in the engine.. touch nothing else.. irrefutable result if it is being caused by something other than the new solid cam/lifters swap. To me testing another set of solid lifters from someone elses engine isn't enough. Maybe the other persons oil pump was creating a higher pressure to begin with.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 134
And Bort did your builder ever try use restrictor pushrods (available locally from crow cams) to see if the oil pressure went back up to a reasonable PSI ? You don't need so much oil up at the rocker /pushrods tips.
Originally Posted by Launch
So just to confirm, which lifters went in the engine this time around? Still seems a bit too convenient for me that all Bort did was swap lifters/camshaft and lost his oil pressure.
Psicko.. chill pill ****. When it is proven beyond doubt the solid lifters aren't causing the oil pressure issue, I will apologize for my comment about the morels.
If it were mine...... previously used hydraulic roller cam/lifters straight back in the engine.. touch nothing else.. irrefutable result if it is being caused by something other than the new solid cam/lifters swap. To me testing another set of solid lifters from someone elses engine isn't enough. Maybe the other persons oil pump was creating a higher pressure to begin with.
Psicko.. chill pill ****. When it is proven beyond doubt the solid lifters aren't causing the oil pressure issue, I will apologize for my comment about the morels.
If it were mine...... previously used hydraulic roller cam/lifters straight back in the engine.. touch nothing else.. irrefutable result if it is being caused by something other than the new solid cam/lifters swap. To me testing another set of solid lifters from someone elses engine isn't enough. Maybe the other persons oil pump was creating a higher pressure to begin with.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
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Guys,
I have some good news.
I just went and saw my builder in regards to current engine and had a very long chat about what direction to take.
My engine has been pulled completely apart 14 times since 2005 and the threads are kind of worn and long term reliability will be questionable especially with more power.
So the new direction is this.
I am building a DART SHP block.
Engine will be a 427 with a 4.125 bore.
This way I can re use my crank and rods and I will only need new pistons.
I'm waiting to get prices on the iron and aluminium version to see the difference.
I was looking at the LS3 option but the cost is the same as the DART, I would need another crank also to turn it into a 427.
The LS7 block is too overpriced for what it is so that's also out.
The priority main oiling and the longer cylinder sleeves of the DART block will really help the engine with reliability also.
Plus it will also be boost ready for any future modifications with 6 bolt heads.
I will also be able to use those axle oiled lifters too which is a good thing.
The price to get this built was too good to pass up.
Because of the crap that was going on with current engine this was taken into consideration also, when we worked out the costs.
I'm very happy but I will not list the costs on this thread.
Because of this I have the option of securing that new mamo ls7 top end that is for sale on these forums or go with one of Tony's larger cathedral offerings.
I think it's a 245cc head turned into a 250cc head. (I think)
Still waiting to hear back from him on that one.
So if anyone is interested in some parts I will have plenty lying around.
Any "constructive" opinions or suggestions are welcome.
I have some good news.
I just went and saw my builder in regards to current engine and had a very long chat about what direction to take.
My engine has been pulled completely apart 14 times since 2005 and the threads are kind of worn and long term reliability will be questionable especially with more power.
So the new direction is this.
I am building a DART SHP block.
Engine will be a 427 with a 4.125 bore.
This way I can re use my crank and rods and I will only need new pistons.
I'm waiting to get prices on the iron and aluminium version to see the difference.
I was looking at the LS3 option but the cost is the same as the DART, I would need another crank also to turn it into a 427.
The LS7 block is too overpriced for what it is so that's also out.
The priority main oiling and the longer cylinder sleeves of the DART block will really help the engine with reliability also.
Plus it will also be boost ready for any future modifications with 6 bolt heads.
I will also be able to use those axle oiled lifters too which is a good thing.
The price to get this built was too good to pass up.
Because of the crap that was going on with current engine this was taken into consideration also, when we worked out the costs.
I'm very happy but I will not list the costs on this thread.
Because of this I have the option of securing that new mamo ls7 top end that is for sale on these forums or go with one of Tony's larger cathedral offerings.
I think it's a 245cc head turned into a 250cc head. (I think)
Still waiting to hear back from him on that one.
So if anyone is interested in some parts I will have plenty lying around.
Any "constructive" opinions or suggestions are welcome.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
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You are a generous and helpful individual and I would give you a hug if I could. (Don't get any strange ideas)
When these were fitted the oil pressure was a little better but not by much. Still far from satisfactory.
Thanks to you though, you saved me a lot of money by us being able to rule out that the issues was not related to the lifters.
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If you are going dart shp 427, I think the current heads and set up would perform pretty well. I do not regret my choice in going iron block at all, the added weight also comes with bores that do not distort keeping ring sealed better, bottom of bores support pistons better and the priority main piling is ****.
You will need arp head studs for the shp block, they offer bolts but they were to long for my decked heads and a pain in ***. If using thick deck heads though you will be fine with them.
. If buying new pistons for that block, to do again I would do 4.185 bore and get more bang for the buck especially if going ls7 heads.
You will need arp head studs for the shp block, they offer bolts but they were to long for my decked heads and a pain in ***. If using thick deck heads though you will be fine with them.
. If buying new pistons for that block, to do again I would do 4.185 bore and get more bang for the buck especially if going ls7 heads.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 467
If you are going dart shp 427, I think the current heads and set up would perform pretty well. I do not regret my choice in going iron block at all, the added weight also comes with bores that do not distort keeping ring sealed better, bottom of bores support pistons better and the priority main piling is ****.
You will need arp head studs for the shp block, they offer bolts but they were to long for my decked heads and a pain in ***. If using thick deck heads though you will be fine with them.
. If buying new pistons for that block, to do again I would do 4.185 bore and get more bang for the buck especially if going ls7 heads.
You will need arp head studs for the shp block, they offer bolts but they were to long for my decked heads and a pain in ***. If using thick deck heads though you will be fine with them.
. If buying new pistons for that block, to do again I would do 4.185 bore and get more bang for the buck especially if going ls7 heads.
I was thinking of going 4.185 but then there would be no more room for a rebuild if engine ever needed one.
A 4.155 bore size is right in the middle so its still good for boost in the future.
Plus any head i i decide to fit there wont be any shrouding.
Tony's reworked 245cc cathedral heads will be a stump puller on this engine.
The mid range grunt will cause another ******** to grow in the sack.
The dart block will be getting arp head studs.
I was thinking of going 4.185 but then there would be no more room for a rebuild if engine ever needed one.
A 4.155 bore size is right in the middle so its still good for boost in the future.
Plus any head i i decide to fit there wont be any shrouding.
Tony's reworked 245cc cathedral heads will be a stump puller on this engine.
The mid range grunt will cause another ******** to grow in the sack.
I was thinking of going 4.185 but then there would be no more room for a rebuild if engine ever needed one.
A 4.155 bore size is right in the middle so its still good for boost in the future.
Plus any head i i decide to fit there wont be any shrouding.
Tony's reworked 245cc cathedral heads will be a stump puller on this engine.
The mid range grunt will cause another ******** to grow in the sack.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
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if i use the Msd the rpm limit will be up to 7300-7500rpm max.
I am told the fast 102 will restrict this combo too much.
That the intake with the butt cheeks on top right behind the throttle body?
Thread Starter
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Another small update for the others brothers from another mother.
Block has been ordered.
Ended up going for the Dart SHP iron next PRO block.
Got a really good deal on it.
Did some research.
Its made of a stronger cast iron and the oiling system has been tweaked compared to the normal shp version.
It still has provisions for all the stock ls components too.
Bore size will also be 4.160 or 4.155 depending on what is available.
The engine is really going to breathe....
Block has been ordered.
Ended up going for the Dart SHP iron next PRO block.
Got a really good deal on it.
Did some research.
Its made of a stronger cast iron and the oiling system has been tweaked compared to the normal shp version.
It still has provisions for all the stock ls components too.
Bore size will also be 4.160 or 4.155 depending on what is available.
The engine is really going to breathe....
If you put cathedral heads on a 4.160 bore you've really gone off the deep end.
Even Tony I'm sure would tell you to put his 265 ls7 head on it.
260cc is a stock ls3/ls7 volume. Why would you go even smaller on something that is 435+ cubic inches.
If you're doing it, the most bang for your buck will be a 4.125 stroke 45x build. Leaving yourself 1 or 2 over hones would be smart.
Build the shortblock and put the existing LS3 top end on it. I think the Dart build is going to cost a lot more than you're anticipating, but I hope you get through it quickly and get on the road.
Even Tony I'm sure would tell you to put his 265 ls7 head on it.
260cc is a stock ls3/ls7 volume. Why would you go even smaller on something that is 435+ cubic inches.
If you're doing it, the most bang for your buck will be a 4.125 stroke 45x build. Leaving yourself 1 or 2 over hones would be smart.
Build the shortblock and put the existing LS3 top end on it. I think the Dart build is going to cost a lot more than you're anticipating, but I hope you get through it quickly and get on the road.
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Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Melbourne, Australia
If you go 4.160 bore then decide to blow it you look at possible head sealing issues. So you really have to decide now whether you want FI in the future. If you do 4.125 bore is the go.
If not no point going 4.160, do the 4.185 bore and 4.125 crank 454. Your either going FI or NA, plan for one or the other period. Extra piston sleeve length is a good thing but even without the extra length piston design negates the need
If not no point going 4.160, do the 4.185 bore and 4.125 crank 454. Your either going FI or NA, plan for one or the other period. Extra piston sleeve length is a good thing but even without the extra length piston design negates the need