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Also going to install new Weld RT-S 18x10 and 18x11 wheels so I can fit the Wilwood 6-Piston 14" Front Brakes and 12.8" 4-Piston Rear Brakes. Also moving to a UMI Tubular Front End setup. I want a well balanced car for the street. Retains A/C. Full stereo. And will be swapping in some Red Braum Elite Sport seats.
And pictures for the things I have so far.
Last edited by JakeFusion; Aug 18, 2022 at 03:11 PM.
Damn, that's going to be a nice build!! I assume you're going to stay N/A?
I have a very noob question regarding head gasket:
Cometic 4.200" Bore .040" Compressed MLS Head Gaskets
I noticed most go for .040" (heck, even I did) - aside from higher compression with a .036" gasket, is there a reason I don't see many people using a .036" gasket? Anything obvious as to why one wouldn't want to run one of these? On my engine rebuild, I opted for slightly more compression, so I ordered a .036" - now i'm wondering if I should be wary of something.
Damn Jake,
That is one crazy build.
I like the parts very much however I have some questions.
1. Why are using an lsx block na?
You have the weight and heat penalty plus I was reading that these blocks don't breathe as well as the aluminium something to do with the valleys or something.
2. Why are you using a GM LS2 water pump?
I changed mine because it wasn't flowing enough on idle and my engine was overheating on hot days.
You will have more heat than me because of your higher power level and the cast iron material of the engine.
3. What heads are you using?
1) LSX has bay-to-bay breathing. It's built like an LS2/LS7 block. Just iron. If I can find an LS2 block in good shape and get Darton Sleeves in that for less, I'd go that route. The Dart SHP is less but doesn't have the windage stuff the LSX block has. Which is important on an NA higher RPM motor. And I'm not going to dry sump... so. Vacuum pump I may do, but it looks like I'd have to remove the A/C. And no. That's not happening. So, I can get a fully CNC machined LSX block from GM for what I consider to be a good price. And that's what I plan to do. Just needs finish honing.
2) LS2 water pump is where I'm starting. I already have it. I'll see if I have issues. I can always go to a Meziere or something? Would an LS7 pump be better? I don't know. I have the big BeCool radiator now. So I stay around 195 in the summer with the A/C on. Iron will run hotter. As long as it's under 220 I don't much care.
3) SPS Haymakers. 2.165" Ferrea valve option. Flow 400cfm on a 4.150" bore. 11-degree LS3.
Last edited by JakeFusion; Jun 12, 2019 at 11:46 AM.
Damn, that's going to be a nice build!! I assume you're going to stay N/A?
I have a very noob question regarding head gasket:
Cometic 4.200" Bore .040" Compressed MLS Head Gaskets
I noticed most go for .040" (heck, even I did) - aside from higher compression with a .036" gasket, is there a reason I don't see many people using a .036" gasket? Anything obvious as to why one wouldn't want to run one of these? On my engine rebuild, I opted for slightly more compression, so I ordered a .036" - now i'm wondering if I should be wary of something.
Don't mean to hi-jack, learning experience.
Thanks,
Andy
The K1 combo I ordered... the pistons are .005" in the hole @ 9.240" deck. So I could have gone .036" for a .041" quench, but the reverse dome pistons actually slide up into the combustion chamber a tiny bit. So I end up with something closer to a .040" quench pad distance with them with the .040" gasket and .005" in the hole piston. The .036" would have been a little too close, I feel. I'm going for 7500 in this with a fairly heavy piston ~ 500g. I wanted there to be a little more room for error. And I'm still right around that .035-.040" optimal quench area.
1) LSX has bay-to-bay breathing. It's built like an LS2/LS7 block. Just iron. If I can find an LS2 block in good shape and get Darton Sleeves in that for less, I'd go that route. The Dart SHP is less but doesn't have the windage stuff the LSX block has. Which is important on an NA higher RPM motor. And I'm not going to dry sump... so. Vacuum pump I may do, but it looks like I'd have to remove the A/C. And no. That's not happening. So, I can get a fully CNC machined LSX block from GM for what I consider to be a good price. And that's what I plan to do. Just needs finish honing.
2) LS2 water pump is where I'm starting. I already have it. I'll see if I have issues. I can always go to a Meziere or something? Would an LS7 pump be better? I don't know. I have the big BeCool radiator now. So I stay around 195 in the summer with the A/C on. Iron will run hotter. As long as it's under 220 I don't much care.
3) SPS Haymakers. 2.165" Ferrea valve option. Flow 400cfm on a 4.150" bore. 11-degree LS3.
I have my doubts with the water pump.
There are a lot of things working against it.
Even with a high end radiator and hi flow thermostat, this was still happening.
It was revealed that it was a problem because during hot days, when the car would idle or be moving slowly in traffic,the temperature would creep up till it got on the red.
As soon as the vehicle was moving and reached around 30-40 mph, the temperature would go all the way down to where it should be which obviously signifies that water pump is not flowing enough when the engine is not spinning at a high enough rpm.
I had to get the mezeire wp319s water pump but the high flow version. It flows 55gpm at all times and doesn't work with engine rpm's.
These are meant to be the best water pumps money can buy.
It is built like a tank,
This should also free up some hp and help the engine rev quicker too.
I also ended up purchasing an oil cooler kit along with an oil thermostat, adapters etc from improved racing. I ended up going for the 20 row cooler.
And I also purchased a power steering cooler kit too
These are all currently being fitted to my engine along with everything else and I will surely write up a detailed report of my thoughts and findings with my engine.
Try the LS2 pump, but don't be surprised if it doesn't work for you.
I have my doubts with the water pump.
There are a lot of things working against it.
Even with a high end radiator and hi flow thermostat, this was still happening.
It was revealed that it was a problem because during hot days, when the car would idle or be moving slowly in traffic,the temperature would creep up till it got on the red.
As soon as the vehicle was moving and reached around 30-40 mph, the temperature would go all the way down to where it should be which obviously signifies that water pump is not flowing enough when the engine is not spinning at a high enough rpm.
I had to get the mezeire wp319s water pump but the high flow version. It flows 55gpm at all times and doesn't work with engine rpm's.
These are meant to be the best water pumps money can buy.
It is built like a tank,
This should also free up some hp and help the engine rev quicker too.
I also ended up purchasing an oil cooler kit along with an oil thermostat, adapters etc from improved racing. I ended up going for the 20 row cooler.
And I also purchased a power steering cooler kit too
These are all currently being fitted to my engine along with everything else and I will surely write up a detailed report of my thoughts and findings with my engine.
Try the LS2 pump, but don't be surprised if it doesn't work for you.
Those are all good points. I've been thinking of the Mezeire just for the 7-10HP it gives. So, I may go that route.
Originally Posted by Esser
Looks like a really nice list of parts.
What are your goals for the engine and use for the car? Strip only or is this going to be more tame for street?
It'll be a street car that goes to the drag strip once in a while. It has a lot of creature comforts I plan to keep... big stereo, A/C, etc. I don't plan to gut it. I just wanted more power everywhere.
On that statement you made about a vacuum pump & maybe having to take A/C off for it. A GZ pump will fit with the A/C accumulator there. Just not with the factory accumulator bracket. You must remove that & the accumulator will move enough for the pump to fit. Then as I just made a custom bracket for it to hold it solid. At first the A/C line was contacting VP pulley. As they give no instruction for any of this but you can make it work.
On that statement you made about a vacuum pump & maybe having to take A/C off for it. A GZ pump will fit with the A/C accumulator there. Just not with the factory accumulator bracket. You must remove that & the accumulator will move enough for the pump to fit. Then as I just made a custom bracket for it to hold it solid. At first the A/C line was contacting VP pulley. As they give no instruction for any of this but you can make it work.
Have any pictures of how your bracket is? I was looking at the gz pump but didn't want to lose ac.
On that statement you made about a vacuum pump & maybe having to take A/C off for it. A GZ pump will fit with the A/C accumulator there. Just not with the factory accumulator bracket. You must remove that & the accumulator will move enough for the pump to fit. Then as I just made a custom bracket for it to hold it solid. At first the A/C line was contacting VP pulley. As they give no instruction for any of this but you can make it work.
That's good to know. If I can get the GZ pump to work then using a 5.3L block and Darton sleeves might be the better setup.
Originally Posted by Che70velle
Bout time you started this thread. No doubt it will be stout. What kind of numbers are you expecting?
On an engine dyno... honestly 700+ is what I'll be aiming for. These heads have done 765 on a 427 with a hydraulic roller for Thompson and a Sniper with less compression. So, the FAST will eat up some, and the cam is smaller (but not by much), but it's a bigger motor with more compression. Combined with a solid roller, which seems to be worth 30HP over equivalent hydraulic profiles typically, and that 750+ feels doable with proper windage control here. So 700 would feel a little underwhelming, and 750 would be awesome.
If I split and say 725... chassis dyno usually shows a 100HP loss. So that would be 625 to the tire through a 6-speed. Sounds about right. Through a fairly efficient converter (96% last I logged it) would put me right at 600 to the tire through the auto.
Jake, can you breakdown the Kurt Urban Vapor Vent system ?
It's basically just the four steam ports brought to the brick here so it's higher than the radiator. And then as it condenses, it flows downhill. Nice little bracket for use on the FAST intake manifolds to tie it all together.
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H'what? 440 build or something 
