Glad to hear you got it Mickey.

 

So if i read that right, you gaped yourself?

LOL. Nice job working through all the bugs! That's what it takes sometimes. builds like yours are not for the faint of heart.

 

I did actually gaped myself lol
Thanx Guys
The way the cars running now Bortous youll have to wait till summernats for a dyno sheet. I cant see the point in spending a 1000 just to get numbers . That may change as the weather warms up and i decide to go e85 but unless someone rips out a huge big block , ill have a big trophy in my cupboard jan 21'
I will say with 100% confidence ive achieved my goal of 500+rwkw/670+rwhp....... Ill also say that before this engine starts losing power , i wont blame the YT rockers, i will throw new valve springs at it in 12 months time so i dont blame the YTs.
This thing F ing rips

 

Ive had the engine n gearbox out, dropped new clutch discs in after a rang mantic and said id buy another brand clutch if they didnt supply me clutch discs only, which they did , not happy with the price tho $930 for the pair. I can buy 3 tilton discs here in aus for $430. Alls back in the car , clutch is good. Tweaked the tune some more in the spark, ivt, and power enrichment .areas......very very good now, best its been...
Absolutely crushed an audi s3 and straight after that turned a corner and F me, ferrari 438, rolled up next to him, got the nod and smoked him on a roll real bad, twice LOL My lifes complete hahaha He wnted a 3rd run and i said mate your dreamin but had a run and did it sideways to 80mph. How good is life

 

Good news Mickey. Way to represent Tony in the OZ! WHOS NEXT?

 

Maybe me....

 

Im just about ready to start building my new house so there wont be any work getting done on the car except the interior, until November 2021. But that doesnt mean i cant start planning and collecting parts for the next stage .
The plan is to throw a twin turbo kit at it and see how it goes. A few things i have thought to do is
1: upgrade fuel system from the fore innovations twin pump to their triple pump
2: put the aviad dry sump system i have on
3: upgrade the oil cooler
4: new camaro bonnet vent to draw air out straight after it goes thru radiator
5: an interchiller setup

With the engine lsx 454 callies rotating assembly 4.125 crank 4.185 bore. I know there will be comments along the lines of "not recommended to boost 4.185 bore",
. Ive read heaps of stuff online about doing F.I with a 4.185 bore, all say dont do it the bores to big but i havnt seen a full build thread because most dont go thru with the build
ive only seen 1 online reffering to a FI lsx454 having issues and they cracked the block on engine dyno but also that was the version 1 lsx block. i have the latest lsx block
So im set giving it a crack and all input welcome if it helps it hold together.
Usage, drive it hard and alot on the street, 10 track days a yr, a couple of 1000m sprints, a few 2000mile return trips a yr, once covids gone
Upgrades to engine ive thought of so far
1: either sell my mamo heads and upgrade to the V2 or send my heads to mamo so he can upgrade to V2
2: JE pistons to drop compression to 9.5 : 1
3: Oring block and reciever groove in heads
4: bearing clearances to suit Fi


thats as far as ive got but would like recommendations for intake manifold, injectors, cam, turbo's and anything else i may need.
I was thinking to go 1 small turbo to spool it up and one big one to make it happen. but in reality i know jack about turbo builds other than what ive read online
My hp goal is a modest 1000rwhp , i think that can be done and be reliable also, Dec 2021 it begins

 

You thinking about 10-14 psi boost? If so I doubt you need to drop all the way to 9.5

 

Darth ...I know sweet f.a about the theory behind boost, if there's a mathematical equation behind it, rule of thumb .
Is the an equation to work out horsepower using psi, scr,dcr, ci
ive read where top mount blowers having higher scr than turbo but don't actually know why. Mechanically I understand a lot more.
i have 9 months to learn all I can before I'll order pistons etc
a mate of mine has the fastest 1/4 stock bottom end vf commodore(2017 Chevy ss) in Aus and I do the 1000 mile round trip to watch so I know more about superchargingbut ,no good for my purposes of track days . He's the owner of forced induction interchillers . We will run an electrical pump instead of mechanical , untried as yet but in theory it'll work, it'll b killer if it works.

 

Hey Mick,
FWIW, before I started my current build I consulted a few professionals in regards to what size engine I should build for my purposes.
Every single one of them including Mamo said to go no bigger than a 4.155 bore for boost.
For NA it doesn't matter.
I really wanted a 440 originally for the max bore size and was only advised to go this route if I'm 100% certain I will never go boosted.
Even in the early days, when I mentioned even low boost on such an engine I was strongly advised against it because of leaking and sealing issues.
And also as you mentioned, there is a higher chance of failure with the lsx block too.
Not sure on the newer ones though or when they were released.
It's up to you in the end but if you have the cahoonas to run boost I would probably run low boost to keep it safe.
Your cooling system will most likely need to be upgraded to cope with it.
Fitting an electric pump like mine should help things also.

 

Yep I've heard the same thing about bore size but as I said I've only seen 1 failure with the 1st version block. I just can't find the evidence of failure doing it

the later version uses far higher quality material, stronger.

theres a few boosted 4.185 bore and some hv been running strong for yrs. I think 18lb was the highest I've seen
its not like I'll try pushing 30lb thru it.
from wht little I know I had 10-12lb in mind. How tht equates to cylinder pressure I'll have to find out
itll be a good learning curve before I do a billet aluminium turbo short stroke big bore for the next car I'll build
In regards to cooling i don't know if you've heard of the interchillers
Uses the air conditioner to cool intake air. On a 30c day your iat will sit around 6c. Great using oem aircon pump for 1/4mile but not on the track due to at wot the aircon pump turns off. You can do ya 1/4 run and at the end turn chiller on and by the time u get back to the line ya hv 6c intake temps. The interchillers is worth around 35rwhp
For mine we will rig up an electrical pump for air con so I'll have no shut off at wot n constantly cold iat

 

Yes I have heard of the interchillers.
They have great results but are $$$.
I would certainly use one if I was going boosted.
Just be sure you find out the correct info from other guys that have done it.
You want it to be safe.

 

The owner is a mate of mine

 

Simple math on boost is if you double the atmosphere, you double the airmass, all else being equal. So one atmosphere is 14.7 psi. Round to 15 for easy math. 15 psi doubles your NA power - again, all else being equal.

So if you drop compression, reduce timing to compensate say you end up around 600 rwhp. You should need about 10-12 psi to get to 1000 hp.

That is the short, quick and dirty math. Bottom line is you do not need 25-30 psi, so you do not need to drop compression as far as you might think you do.

 

That's good, so I bet you will be able to get the chiller at a good price.
He sells some good stuff.
I have read a lot about the work Kong does on the new 2650 blowers too.
It's impressive.
There is also a good test with LS3 heads on there too.

 

Large engines aren’t necessarily the best approach to boost for longevity or power delivery.

Leave your killer NA package in one piece and get a nice 6.2 liter and build from there imo.

 

Yep , ive heard that a lot , id just cant find enough evidence of it online, lots of talk of doing it but very few actually do it.....
So may as well give it a shot and see what happens

 

I don't know. Me and Mamo are building a 434 for boost. Only reason we didn't go 440 is so we can clean up the piston walls if something happens. I am using an aluminum LS Next block for this one but I think cubes all depends on your application and personal preference. Both Mamo and AES Racing said build the biggest cubes I could afford and this is for a boosted setup. And AES is one of the best in the country for race engines. This is going to be another Procharger setup so maybe it's different for turbo. I see a lot of guys do destroked 388's.

 

Mine is 10:1 compression. 20psi and 900. And that's on a 4" stroke LS1 (383). Through a th400 and 9". So I agree. On C85 fuel and 18 degrees of timing. But it was pulling a couple degrees of timing due to heat on the dyno so a little less timing actually

 

Id buy a couple cheap 5.3 or 6.0 to practice your boosted learning curve on b4 you hurt something expensive...its not the 1k instant mail order hp every one thinks it is. There will be trials n tribulations...and shyt that gets blown up! Get it together and under control for couple seasons, than pull out the big gun set up...