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Hi All, Thought id share my build, my 1st post ,ive learnt alot from the forum. I pulled the engine due to a little to much blow by and thought id change it up a bit with a mamo top end
Lsx block bored and honed 4.190 bore 4.125 stroke , rotating assembly balanced with ati balancer and light flywheel, king coated bearings Je Fsr pistons, 11.9 :1 trickflow MMS 260ls7 heads 2.200 hollow intake, 1.615 solid ex , pac 1209x springs with titanium retainers ARP head studs for sixbolt heads YT MMS solid roller rockers, edelbrock high rise valve covers Crower solid lifters Solid roller cam 259/265 .704 .704 113+3 lsa double row timing set +6 cometic MLX head gaskets MMS ls7 MSD airforce intake manifold, msd fuel rails, 60lb injectors TPIS 102mm throttle body Harrop otr cai melling standard volume high pressure pump evans water pump , 160thermostat MSD starter catch can hurrican 1 7/8 cermaic coated extractors 3inch no cats ceramic coated cat back new power steer cooler new engine oil thermostat new front and rear rotors and pads new rear speed sensors and speed sensor harness new rear wheel bearings new plugs and leads new concentric slave cylinder, new headlights new front bumper, bonnet, front guards, fresh paint new windscreen sill all engine bay harnesses re-wrapped brake lines flushed , new brake fluid new flat underbody panels, front and rear diffuser new fire wall heat sheild new window trim all round adjustable control arms with nolathane bushes MCA red coil over shocks harrop tru track diff, 3.45 , upgraded axles fore innovations twin intank 285lph pumps t56 gearbox , mantic twin ceramic clutch , light flywheel
Digging your under tray. Is it aluminum though? Using a composite you'd save a bunch of weight (although I think maybe not your first priority with this big guy). Would be nice to cover the entire floor, but you already have some skid marks on that resonator. I know that feeling all too well haha. My cats and every exhaust flange I have are ground flat.
I'd bet you could fit a much larger intake under the hood than the MSD and really gain a ton of performance. The MSD is struggling to feed max effort LS7 builds. This thing at 455 cubic inches is going to be out of breath, even with Mamo's touches.
I used 10mm hdpe plastic for the underbody , bought it out past the body so it makes side planks. When i hit the track i bolt up a section so the underbody is fully covered..
My engine builder stuffed me around so cars been off the road for 1 1/2 yrs , ill drive it for awhile then put my aviaid 4 stage dry sump on and ill swap out the intake for an ITB setup.
it'll hit the dyno next week and im hoping to hit my goal of 500rwkw/ 670rwhp,
Last edited by Mickyinks; 09-21-2019 at 02:55 AM.
Reason: added
I dont really need it on the street, worried it''ll hook up on something. Heat wise its fine being on, i have the extractors back to the mufflers ceramic coated.
I did a test with the panels on and off. 220km round trip with it off, then filled the tank and did same trip with it on, 2 litres per hundred km better fuel economy.
On the track it really works well giving me a lot of down force
Thanks Jimbo,
Will go crazy with carbon fibre panels next, also once the t56 blows ill drop a magnum in and upgrade tail shaft at the same time
Last edited by Mickyinks; 09-21-2019 at 04:41 PM.
Reason: spell check
I'd like to see what members here think of the cam im trying.
Its a 259/ 265 .702 .682 113+2 with intake on a 111icl- ivo 18.5.. ivc 60.5 and 115ecl- evo67.5... evc 17.5 with 36 overlap
If it doesnt run up to well on the dyno and feel good via the butt dyno , i have another cam ready to go
its a 255/269 .702 .685 114+3 with intake on a 111icl- ivo16.5.. ivc 58.5 and 117ecl- evo71.5... evc 17.5 with 34 overlap
I thought it was a Aus build. The car looked fancier lil. What brand solid roller? When you post the dyno graph, can you also post SAE numbers for those of us state side? Thanks. I am interested in the outcome. How many miles/Kilometers did you run before needing the rebuild?
I thought it was a Aus build. The car looked fancier lil. What brand solid roller? When you post the dyno graph, can you also post SAE numbers for those of us state side? Thanks. I am interested in the outcome. How many miles/Kilometers did you run before needing the rebuild?
thanks,
Jim
Hi Jim, Its a crow cams solid. I dont know how many miles the engine did before rebuild but it did 2 yrs of nearly daily driving, drove it hard to. Roll racing, track days etc.
On tear down the mains were showing a bit of heat so looks like the builder was running them a little tight, there was also to much piston to wall clearance. Ultimately a bad tune washing the bores, causing hot spots on the bores , made me rebuild.
The tuners in my home state have been avg at best. I initially built a 454 wet sleeved ls2 block, 1st tuner gave it back to me and i noticed high oil temps and asked him about it. Was told alls good drive it, after bout a week of heating issues and after putting big radiator in i still had probs. Pulled the heads , blown gaskets.Not entirely tuners fault, partly my fault for going wet sleeves. Not enough support in the block and it was twisting.
Rebuilt it with lsx block and ran great. decided to try tune a small flat spot out so tried a well known tuner who changed from hp tuners to efi live and he was running it on oem injector data , fuel was pouring out the exhaust. Found a small tuner who works on pro stock engines and he gained 40rwhp. Really good tuner so thought id give him ago at latest rebuild, that was 1 1/2 yrs ago. So obviously not impressed and once engine was built i had to find another tuner.been waiting a month and was told today wont be ready for another 3 weeks.
Ive come up with a plan for all future engine works and tunes, Im going to do it. Dont care if i blow an engine or 2 while i learn to tune, at least i know ill be trying 100%.
Next week my old wet sleeved block is getting machined, he will have it back to me in 2 weeks, ill assemble it , even if it takes me a week to assemble, its still 15 months quicker than last guy. Its going in my boat so i can use motor plates front , mid and back and itll have a half fill, thatll stop the bastard from twisting.
Anyway previously with 239/254 hyd BTR cam, ls3 heads and lsxr intake it dyno'd 578rwhp. 740ftlb.
I think with your compression the second cam will work better
Hi Darth, Im no cam expert so could you please give me your thoughts on why you think 2nd cam. I left the cam specs up to the builder. I questioned him why it didnt have much split in duration. Ive read all the threads on the bigger cubed, mamo top end builds and was 2nd guessing specs of the cam in mine , so i had a stab and had them grind me that 2nd cam. Then i started 3rd guessing lol, and got the guys at cam motion to spec me one up which was very very close so that made me a lot happier. Dont know if i should say what cam motion specs were, i dont know the protocol behind that.
I asked the builder to use cam motion but he said he'll look after it. Damn it, i wonder if i could get a cam motion cam here in 2 weeks, thats when its getting tuned. Or should i just bang my 2nd cam in it. What characteristics ,hp,torgue would be the difference in the cams i have here?
IVC is the main reason. Your first cam IVC is 60.5. Subtract 2.5 degrees for hydraulic equivalent. That puts it at 58. 58 is going to feel lazy without compression to compensate. For reference my cam spec is 256/270-114+4 with IVC of 58, which is 55.5 hydraulic equivalent. I will be running 12.5 compression with that cam.
Your second cam is nearly identical to my cam and your compression is lower at 11.9. Your second cam will be a better match.
I do not worry about splits or LSA so much as others do. Imo they are just calculation results.
IVC is the main reason. Your first cam IVC is 60.5. Subtract 2.5 degrees for hydraulic equivalent. That puts it at 58. 58 is going to feel lazy without compression to compensate. For reference my cam spec is 256/270-114+4 with IVC of 58, which is 55.5 hydraulic equivalent. I will be running 12.5 compression with that cam.
Your second cam is nearly identical to my cam and your compression is lower at 11.9. Your second cam will be a better match.
I do not worry about splits or LSA so much as others do. Imo they are just calculation results.
So with the compression i have , i;d be better having a 252/269 114+3 which would give me ivc 57? The extra cubes i have would benefit the cam in it now wouldnt it? Thanks for your input , dont know how many times ive read your build thread when i was deciding what to do with latest rebuild
So with the compression i have , i;d be better having a 252/269 114+3 which would give me ivc 57? The extra cubes i have would benefit the cam in it now wouldnt it? Thanks for your input , dont know how many times ive read your build thread when i was deciding what to do with latest rebuild
No I think I would still aim around 58 on a solid roller. The displacement will like that. Really depends on how high you plan to rev. If you still have the option and the fuel, a tad more compression would really fit the build. Equivalent to US 93 octane would work fine.
If you pull IVC too far back, with the motor your size the power curve will nose over hard. Now if your plan is to peak around 6300 and never rev much past that, then less cam will be fine. Just need to know how you plan to drive it as much as anything.
09-16-2019, 10:21 AM
LSX 454 freshen up 
